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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Aug 31, 2016:

activity # timemileskm+ft
  Sport Climbing12 29:30:00
  Hiking6 4:31:00 13.1(20:41) 21.08(12:51) 1950
  Bouldering3 4:30:00
  Trail Run7 3:59:41 24.55(9:46) 39.51(6:04) 3104
  Road Run1 30:11 3.57(8:27) 5.74(5:15) 104
  ExtremeWalking1 27:00 1.8(15:00) 2.9(9:19)
  Strength Training3 24:00
  Dog Jog1 9:00 0.5(18:00) 0.81(11:11)
  Total32 44:00:52 43.52 70.04 5158
averages - sleep:8.3 weight:137.4lbs

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Wednesday Aug 31, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.2 weight:136.8lbs

Crappy sleep, but good attitude this morning. Hope to run after work. Or sleep.
5 PM

Trail Run 35:37 [3] 3.44 mi (10:21 / mi) +391ft 9:21 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Church BST loop CCW with B and C. Hot but took ice water bottle. Legs decent. Good to get out, brain dump. Big work + school tmw. First day. Only 2.5 more years of it! Ready to rip though.

Tuesday Aug 30, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.8lbs

Bailed on an AM run. I want to bank a little sleep before night school starts. I'll get after it after work.
5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Lo mo gym sesh. Did a few v5s. Mgr let me in free for some reason, which was cool. I need some structure for these gym sessions. Oh well. Long day at work, just wanted to climb.
6 PM

Strength Training 9:00 [3]

At home
5 x 5pull ups on lg edge on the minute (25 total)
Easing into doing these to avoid elbow issues

3x 15 ring push ups
3 sets of core + some stretching
Need a better core routine.

Again I climbed too long, so I was too tired to do much proper training stuff. Get through this work week.

Monday Aug 29, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:136.8lbs

Not great sleep. Feel ok this morning, not totally wrecked.

Sunday Aug 28, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.1 weight:137lbs

Awesome sleep. Body feels ok. Off to Maple.
10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon/ Box) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Stellar day!
1 or 2 hung 12a to hang draws for B
Sent Decepticon 12d 1st go of day (2nd ever but same finish as Ribocon). Great route. Hadn't planned to get on it but wanted to make sure I my head and body were warmed up proper for Busload.

Then........
Sent Busload of Faith 13a first go of the day! Yeeeeeeeessssss!
So psyched. I felt solid the whole time, kept my cool after sticking my high point. Maybe I should've done it faster, but I guess it took as long as it was supposed to. Anyway, psyched to send 2nd day on and to simply get the proj done. I'm going to sort of miss getting on it, but I'll be ok.
3 burns on Halloween Parade 12c. Should've sent 2nd go but didn't- fell at last bolt. 3rd go was a bust. Oh well. Psyched to get back on it.

Another great day in the life. Climbing is so rad. I think I'm starting to climb smarter. I rested up to an hour between burns today and didn't feel hurried, which is great for me. Awesome day.

Saturday Aug 27, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:136lbs

To bed at 11 after game and dance. Feel decent this morning. Back to AF.
10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Upper D
12a, try Blimp Factor 12b chossy scary, send Black Heart 12b 1st go of day (tried it once 2 years ago), repeat Neural Processor 12a
Relatively mellow day. Good head but started to feel out of it from late night last night. B almost sent Bewildering Minute.

Friday Aug 26, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:136.2lbs (rest day)

Long day on tap. Get it done.

Thursday Aug 25, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:137.2lbs

Got to bed earlier last night. Keep it up. Maybe run after work.
4 PM

Trail Run 31:18 [3] 3.32 mi (9:26 / mi) +360ft 8:33 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Church loop CCW. Hot but not too too bad. OK legs. I dig this new loop. Good energy after work today. Work is good so far. Good schedule this tri. Nice.

Wednesday Aug 24, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.6lbs

Typical crapy sleep before 1st day of school. Bust out the day. Hip flexors are tight.

Tuesday Aug 23, 2016 #

5 AM

Road Run 30:11 [3] 3.57 mi (8:27 / mi) +104ft 8:14 / mi
slept:8.1 weight:139.2lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 8

Decent rd jog. 5x 10sec hill sprints in last mile or so. Legs heavy but ok.
4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Jeez, it was crowded. So many kids.
Power wasn't great today but did like 5 or 6 (or more?) v5s within 1-3 goes. Tried a couple 6s and a 7 or two.
Good to get the mileage. Doing 4x4s was not an option b/c of so many people.
Didn't hate being there.
5 PM

Strength Training 9:00 [3]

weights + core
3x 12 sb squats

3 sets each, 8 reps
db chest press @40lb
db shoulder fly @10lb

I need to find a good training plan for some direction. I want to try something other than the Anderson Bros though.

Sunday Aug 21, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.9 weight:138lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Upper Division
wu 12a, hang draws on 12c for B
Send Left for Dead 12d 3rd go of the day. Psyched! Got frustrated on first burn but figured out crux sequence. One hung it 2nd go after the crux- hadn't been to the top in a while. Got it next go- felt solid.

Short, but fun day, up there. Hadn't been up there in maybe 2 years.

Saturday Aug 20, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.4 weight:138.4lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon/ Box) 3:30:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu 11c, climbed to lip of Decepticon 12d, one hung Choss Rocket 12a
3 burns on Busload. On last 2 got flat edge on the cobble at the 6th bolt. 3rd go I thought I was going to send, but my hand just came off. Nuts. Best day on it yet. I just want to send it!!! Oh well, maybe next week.
Finished the day by redpointing Choss Rocket 12a, which was pretty darn pumpy. Great day down there. Only would have been better if I'd sent the proj.

Friday Aug 19, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:136.4lbs (rest day)

Couldn't fall asleep last night.

A lot of sitting at work today.

Thursday Aug 18, 2016 #

7 AM

Trail Run 31:53 [3] 3.3 mi (9:40 / mi) +334ft 8:49 / mi
slept:8.5 weight:137.8lbs shoes: Pegasus

Church BST loop CW. Pretty cool "new" loop. Legs ok. Thought a lot about work- good head clearing jog. Feel good about all the busy-ness about to begin. Psyched to have a new loop to have in the rotation as well.

Wednesday Aug 17, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:136.2lbs

Last day of the break?! Rip it!

Note
slept:1.0

Nap from 3-4. I feel really tired. No soreness or anything, just tired. Need to get to bed early tonight.
9 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Back to the gym...
Pretty fun. The good and bad news is I climbed as well as I did before taking the break from the gym. I need to work on power. But, I was able to climb longer than expected, and my skin held up well. Flashed 4 or 5 v5s, pretty much every one I got on. Flashed 2 v6s
10 AM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

Quick trip upstairs for some core stuff.
3 sets db press
8@35lb
6@ 40
6@45

Did I set each of db row and curls but didn't do more b/c I want to research some training plans for power. I didn't want to totally bury my upper body.

Tuesday Aug 16, 2016 #

Note
slept:6.0 weight:137.2lbs

Woke at 4:10 and couldn't fall back asleep. Oh man, this could be a long day...
7 AM

Trail Run 32:31 [3] 3.33 mi (9:46 / mi) +501ft 8:33 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

O Smith loop CW + sprints at the end.

Monday Aug 15, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.2lbs (rest day)

Waited around home waiting for the plumber all day. Oh well, got everything fixed. Rest is good.

Sunday Aug 14, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.6 weight:137.6lbs

Need to get to bed earlier. Taking a break from SoA for a while. Netflix...
Body feels fine today, considering yesterday's efforts. Back at it today.
10 AM

Hiking 1:24:00 [3] 2.6 mi (32:19 / mi) +350ft 28:39 / mi

to/ form Choss cave. We walked past the turn on the way up, came back down, hiked up again. Jeez.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo Canyon- Choss Cave) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Solid mileage day.
Send Not the Warm Up 12b 3rd go. Should have sent 2nd go but spaced on going to a good hold near the last bolt.
3 burns on Mad Choss Disease 12c/d. One hung it 3rd go after flaming out at the lip. Darn. My power is good. I could use some more endurance. Rad route though. Good goes on it considering efforts yesterday and significant heat.

It was really good to go somewhere different today. Recover. Get back at it.

Saturday Aug 13, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.8lbs

Neighbor's dog was barking last night. Up til 11:30 dealing with that. Feel ok this morning. I just hope I have some power today at Maple. Send!
10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon/ Box) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu 11c
burn on Busload, pumped out at lip
Put up draws on In the Meantime 12b to warm up more (body and mind)
3(?) more burns on Busload with 3rd being a high point- fell going left hand second time (from small edge to cobble edge). Kind of sorted out a better strategy for clipping the 5th bolt too. So, good progress day before running out of gas. On last burn, took after clipping 5th bolt, then climbed to the top.

Finished with a one-hang of In the Meantime. Psyched to go back and do both routes, hopefully before next weekend.

Friday Aug 12, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:137.4lbs

Stayed up past 11 to try to see the meteor shower but no luck. Feel decent this morning.
10 AM

Hiking 30:00 [3] 1.5 mi (20:00 / mi) +300ft 16:49 / mi

Route recon in BCC. Checked out Osiris and Kiss It Goodbye. Psyched to get on both.

Overall mellow day. Mowed the lawn.

Thursday Aug 11, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.1 weight:137.4lbs

Going back up to Tacos today. Send!
12 PM

ExtremeWalking 27:00 [3] 1.8 mi (15:00 / mi)
shoes: Bajada II

Sure.
4 PM

Hiking 40:00 [3] 2.0 mi (20:00 / mi) +350ft 17:09 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

to/ from Tacos diablos

Sport Climbing (Little Cottonwood Canyon) 30:00 [3]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu burn/ dog up tacos
Send Tacos Diablos 5.13a. Pretty psyched. Didn't feel too bad once I committed to the foot swing move before clipping the 3rd bolt. Topped it out and walked off. Climbed up 3 bolts on the left line, then bailed- felt sketchy and sharp. Quick PM sesh with B. Psyched to get this one done so fast. Great little line in an amazing place.

Wednesday Aug 10, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138lbs

Much better sleep last night. Body is ok. Psyche is low though.
9 AM

Trail Run 46:54 [3] 4.7 mi (9:59 / mi) +623ft 8:52 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Anns- Clarks CCW. Ran the first 35min, the jog/hiked/ sprinted the last mile or so. Head wasn't really in it and was digging just walking and thinking a little. Picked up the pace on the strides/ sprints (10-30sec). Decent jog. Needed to defog my brain.

Tuesday Aug 9, 2016 #

Note
slept:5.7 weight:136.8lbs

Crappy sleep and woke at 6 and couldn't fall back asleep. Whey protein and beer (not mixed) for dinner last night.
9 AM

Dog Jog 9:00 [3] 0.5 mi (18:00 / mi)
shoes: Pegasus

Monday Aug 8, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.3 weight:138.6lbs

Big sleep. Getting out the with H this evening.
10 AM

Trail Run 30:47 [3] 3.2 mi (9:37 / mi) +452ft 8:29 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

O Smith CCW. Hot but legs and body ok. Glad I got out b/c my head is a cloudy mess. Jeez.
5 PM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +350ft 19:18 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

To/ from Tacos crag

Sport Climbing (Little Cottonwood Canyon) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

1 or 2 hang wu on kinda sketchy arete
4 burns on Taco Diablos 13a. Should have sent 3rd go but left foot was too low going to left hand slopey pinch. Crap. One hung it on 3rd and 4th go. 4th go I was powered down and fell at the 3rd bolt. Not an issue of power on earlier goes, just climbing smarter. Nuts. Sick route and hang out though. Could feel the elevation (~10k) at first. I felt a little rushed b/c another group showed up. Didn't feel totally relaxed even though it was a good vibe there. Oh well. Next time...

Hayden did it twice, the wank. Psyched to get up there and climb in a different area. Gonna try to get B psyched to go up there Thurs. She'd crush it.

Sunday Aug 7, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.6 weight:138.2lbs

9 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 30:00 [3]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Cannabis
Got rained out after warming up (2 laps on 11b)
Tried the MC 12a by the river but couldn't do the moves b/t bolt 2 and 3.
Got on Something Wild and had a decent burn to the 5th or 6th bolt, but the route was soaked above that. Nuts.
Ended up coming home around 12:30 and laying on the couch watching T of U stage. My body probably needed the rest, but my head didn't want it. Oh well. Just not that psyched on AF after last week in Wild Iris.

Saturday Aug 6, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:137lbs

Stayed up til 11 watching psicobloc. Feel groggy this morning, but my body doesn't feel to bad.

Friday Aug 5, 2016 #

9 AM

Sport Climbing (Wild Iris) 2:30:00 [4]
slept:8.5 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

OK Corral
Awesome morning before driving home. 3rd day on...
wu 11a (dogged up it)
Flash 12a Rooster Cogburn
Flash 11a
Give my love to Rose 12b 2nd go, so rad
Flash 10d Claim Jumper
Flash 10a
Love this place and this crag for easy to mod mileage.

Thursday Aug 4, 2016 #

9 AM

Hiking 36:00 [3] 2.5 mi (14:24 / mi) +300ft 12:56 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

to/ from Remuda/ Erratic
10 AM

Sport Climbing (Wild Iris) 4:00:00 [4]
slept:9.0 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Erratic/ Remuda
wu 10d, 11b
send Court and Spark 12b 2nd go of day
send Hey Boo Boo 12b 2nd go
send Coyote Vacuum 1st go of day (3rd go total)
send Queen of Hearts 12a 2nd go
Long, awesome day climbing some rad routes

Wednesday Aug 3, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:137.4lbs

Slept ok. Legs feel stiff and kinda weird- must be from the 5 hours of sitting at work yesterday.
12 PM

Hiking 36:00 [3] 2.5 mi (14:24 / mi) +300ft 12:56 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

to/ from Erratic
1 PM

Sport Climbing (Wild Iris) 2:30:00 [5]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

wu 10d, 11b
send County Ten Gunslinger 12c like 7th go of the day. Jeez. Kinda frustrating but good lesson to take time to tweak beta rather than relentlessly attacking.

Tuesday Aug 2, 2016 #

7 AM

Trail Run 30:41 [3] 3.26 mi (9:25 / mi) +443ft 8:20 / mi
slept:8.0 weight:137.4lbs shoes: Pegasus

O Smith CW. Legs ok. Head not in it. Hot. Good to get out before a work-ish day.

Monday Aug 1, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.2 weight:137.4lbs (rest day)

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