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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Oct 31, 2015:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	9	24:00:00
	Bouldering	6	6:54:00
	Hiking	4	3:48:00	5.5	(41:27)	8.85	(25:46)	3000
	Trail Run	4	1:45:37	10.52	(10:02)	16.93	(6:14)	940
	Road Run	1	30:13	3.47	(8:43)	5.58	(5:25)	160
	Campusing	2	30:00
	Strength Training	2	12:00
	Dog Jog	1	6:00	0.75	(8:00)	1.21	(4:58)
	Total	29	37:45:50	20.24		32.57		4100
averages - sleep:8.6 weight:137.9lbs

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Saturday Oct 31, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.8lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Narrows) 2:30:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

10a, 11c (ext. of 11a- really cool), send Texture 12c first go of day.
4 goes on Dust 13a- 2nd and 4th redpoint burns fell just below last bolt. Such a sick route. Beta is sorted out, just need to execute. Love this crag. Tomorrow may be the last visit of the season. Make it count.

4 PM

Dog Jog 6:00 [3] 0.75 mi (8:00 / mi)

Downhill sprint with C before driving home form the Narrows.

Friday Oct 30, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:138.6lbs

Thursday Oct 29, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:139.6lbs (rest day)

Cold and rainy after work. Bailed on a run.

Wednesday Oct 28, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:139.6lbs

6 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:00:00 [4]

Mellow session with B. Sent a v6 I'd not done. Did a hard sequence on another 6 I'd not done before- try to send it next week.

I'm digging the 2 sessions during the week. I just need to be mindful of the intensity and be better about stretching after.

Tuesday Oct 27, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:138.2lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:12:00 [4]

Did a 4 and 5 I'd not done. Didn't feel great but tried hard moves on a couple v8s. Worked vert 7 proj long move a few times and amazingly sent the problem on last try of the day. Awesome.

My gym bouldering strategy is to chunk these hard problems- get stronger on crimpy power problems.

5 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

Core and push ups at home.
Did 45 push ups in 5min, planking to rest during first 3:30 and last minute.

Monday Oct 26, 2015 #

Note
slept:6.8 weight:137.6lbs

Wrecked. It could be a long day. I can make it.

Did some house stuff when I got home. The day went fine.

Sunday Oct 25, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:138lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Narrows) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

10a, 11a, 3 bolts of Mountaineer's route 12b. Not good.
Beta burn, followed by 3 redpoint burns on Texture 12c, falling at seond last bolt each time. Nuts. No send but beta is worked out. Good endurance day.

Saturday Oct 24, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.2lbs

9 AM

Hiking 48:00 [3] 1.0 mi (48:01 / mi) +750ft 28:04 / mi

To/ from Hideaway, lower tier.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

11a, 11d twice (Screaming Lobster- pretty cool). Tried Alcyone 13a. Pretty powerful and fully in the sun. Tried a 12-ish route that we thought was Mariner (it wasn't), then went to Beer Can Alley to play guide for B's bros. Kind of a bust of a day. Oh well.

Friday Oct 23, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:137lbs

Thursday Oct 22, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.8lbs

4 PM

Trail Run 22:13 [3] 2.0 mi (11:06 / mi) +700ft 8:21 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6

12:30 up the quarry trail from 5 Mile, then back. Legs were garbage. "What's the point?" crossed my mind many times during this jog attempt. Cool temps. It smelled like fall up there. Good to pop up there after work. Probably do 1 longer run next week. Thought about riding the SS MTB a little too. TBD.

Wednesday Oct 21, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:139.4lbs

Delayed fatness from Indian food over the weekend, plus ziti last night.

5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:12:00 [4]

Fun session w/ B. Flashed a new v5, v6. Did an unrated new on in the cave- 6-ish. Upper body a little sore form the push ups yesterday. Overall, I felt good. Fun to climb again. Linked 1st 5 moves of a new 8 in the cave.

Tuesday Oct 20, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:138.6lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:18:00 [4]

Good session. Fun new cave probs. Flashed a 6 and did a 7 5th or 6th go- both climbed like routes.
Had a couple god goes on the vertical 7 with a big span move.

5 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

5min pushups- did 88
After 3:15, started doing a plank to recover to get some core action in. Good stuff. At home, did 30 reps of heartbeat w/ 15lb KB, 16 A Frame w/ 10lb KB.

Monday Oct 19, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:137.2lbs

Didn't sleep great.

4 PM

Trail Run 22:35 [3] 2.1 mi (10:45 / mi) +80ft 10:23 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6

Out and back on the Sandy BST. Really low energy today. I have to remind myself I'm a climber who jogs, not a runner who climbs. I'm not sure if it's been bad nutrition since Sat. night, or I dug too deep on Saturday. Hopefully, I'll feel better tmw. It was good to get out today. I may try to go again on Thurs.

Sunday Oct 18, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:139lbs (rest day)

Ran around the park with B ad C for ~35min- mellow active recovery.

Saturday Oct 17, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.2 weight:139lbs

Fat from b-day partying the last 2 nights.

9 AM

Hiking 1:00:00 [3] 1.5 mi (40:00 / mi) +750ft 27:09 / mi

To/ from Hideaway

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Hideaway
wu on 10d, 12b (didn't send either one)
Got on Undertow, hung the draws. Felt weak. Sun was on the bottom. Jordan tried it and could lock off the mono with his middle finger in it. Hmmm.
Next go on it, I tried that and quickly realized I could stick the move using my rt middle finger. After about 6 or 7 tries, I stuck the 3 finger pocket. Boom! Then, unbelievably, I sent the route! OMFG! I got to the chains and couldn't remember how I got there. Surreal and so rad. Totally unexpected send. The moves after sticking the jump to the pocket felt the easiest they ever have. I didn't even get pumped pulling the roof. Dang. Awesome.
Cooled down by onsighting a newer 11a.

Friday Oct 16, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138lbs

9 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Hell
wu on 10a 2x, 11d, tried Reanimator a few times. Stuck the hard move once, then fell on nenxt one. Linked the top half from the lip.
Tried San Miguel 13b a bunch of times and linked the first 5 moves. Really hard.
Ended the day with an onsight of Gateway 12a.
Good power day. Climbing at Hell is hard.

Thursday Oct 15, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.4 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)

Good big sleep.

Hiked around Guardsman with B and C for about 45 minutes. Mellow day.

Wednesday Oct 14, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.4 weight:137.6lbs

Not great sleep.

5 PM

Trail Run 30:49 [3] 3.22 mi (9:34 / mi) +80ft 9:21 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6

Out and back in the gully. First mile flew by. Legs and head disengaged a little the last mile. Good to get out after a lot of standing in one place giving tests at work.

Tuesday Oct 13, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.4lbs

Good sleep. Feel rested and psyched to hit the gym after work.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:12:00 [4]

OK session. Climbed some new unrated stuff, maybe up to v5. Idk. Tried some moves on some 7s and 8s.

5 PM

Campusing 21:00 [4]

14 sets at home in the shed, plus some push ups and core. The rung spacing may be a bit far on the home campus board. No big deal. I want to start a more structured plan but am having trouble motivating to develop one. Just don't get injured.

Monday Oct 12, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:138.2lbs (rest day)

Deep sleep. Body a little stiff this morning but not too bad. Probably rest after work. TBD.

Some jogging around the park with C for about 25min- good active recovery. Mellow.

Sunday Oct 11, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.4lbs

Up an hour before the alarm but psyched to rally.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon/ Pipeline) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu on 10a, 10c at Frontera
At Pipeline, sent w/in 2-3 goes each:
Golden Boy 12c
Freshly Squeezed 12a
Sliding Down Across a Million Years 12b

I tried a couple of these routes 2 summers ago and was getting shut down. I'm so psyched to send all 3 of these in one day, second day on no less. Awesome. Climbing is so rad. It sounds corny, but I've just been feeling so fortunate to have a healthy body that lets me do this stuff. Psyched for the long weekend next weekend. Too many routes to do!

Saturday Oct 10, 2015 #

Note
slept:11.1 weight:137.8lbs

Big, good sleep. Ready to rip. Send!

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Narrows) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu 10a, try 11d
Hang draws on TKO. Sent TKO 5.13a 1st redpoint burn of the day! Psyched! Bottom was smooth. Top was a mess but got it done. Yes!
Sent Black Sails 12a/b 2nd go of the day. Sent unknown new 11d 3rd go of the day.
What an amazing day! Had the crag to ourselves. Goal was to send TKO and Black Sails. Got it done. Awesome.

Friday Oct 9, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:137.6lbs

Feel better this morning but like I just woke from hibernation. Where did yesterday go?

Thursday Oct 8, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:137.6lbs

Note
slept:2.0

Passed out after work. Had a headache off and on since after lunch.

Wednesday Oct 7, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:138lbs

5 PM

Trail Run (Gully) 30:00 [3] 3.2 mi (9:22 / mi) +80ft 9:09 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6

Out and back w/ a negative split. Psyched I dragged myself out at 5:30 after a long day at work. Plan was 20min but just kept going. I forgot where I was- awesome. Threw some strides getting down to mid6s.

Tuesday Oct 6, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:137.2lbs

Good sleep. Psyched for the gym today.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:00:00 [4]

Didn't feel great. Didn't do anything harder than v5. Tried some 7s though.

5 PM

Campusing 9:00 [4]

10 sets- felt okay. Not much power.
Did some core stuff when I got home. Overall, a low energy day. good to move and breathe though.

Monday Oct 5, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:137.4lbs

A little sore this morning. Slept ok.

Sunday Oct 4, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.2 weight:137.2lbs

9 AM

Hiking 1:00:00 [3] 1.5 mi (40:00 / mi) +750ft 27:09 / mi

To/ from Hideaway

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

OS 10d Sea Cliff- exciting crack and dihedral
Did the moves on Bamboo 12b to warm up some more
4 burns on Undertow. Still haven't done the move off the mono. Some progress: climbed to top from half way point jug.

Forecast looking too hot to go back next weekend. Psyched to train to send it though.

Saturday Oct 3, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:136.8lbs

9 AM

Hiking 1:00:00 [3] 1.5 mi (40:00 / mi) +750ft 27:09 / mi

To/ from Hideaway.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu on 10a, 10d
4 burns on Undertow 13a- pretty powerful. Did all but one of the moves but figured out beta on last burn- just didn't have the juice to execute the move off the mono. Went to the top twice. Psyched to go back next weekend and put it all together. Cool to have a proj to give some focus to the training. My ego wishes it was a 13b or c. Get over it.

Friday Oct 2, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.1 weight:136.4lbs

Got home late from work and took a few hours to wind down. Up til midnight. Slept til 9:20. Needed it. I've felt tired all week.

Thursday Oct 1, 2015 #

5 AM

Road Run 30:13 [3] 3.47 mi (8:43 / mi) +160ft 8:21 / mi
slept:7.0 weight:136.4lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 6

Decent jog with some strides. Warm outside.

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