Training Log Archive: chinoIn the 31 days ending Mar 31, 2015:
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Tuesday Mar 31, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.7 weight:137.4lbs
Good sleep. Just need more of it. Started the campus board yesterday, and the rungs and new hangboard should be delivered today. The plan is to install all of it today. Getting psyched to start doing some training again.
Monday Mar 30, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)
Slept ok but woke at 4 and took a while to fall back asleep. Body feels pretty wrecked, and my skin hurts. Typical Monday of paying for a great weekend in the mountains.
Sunday Mar 29, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.7 weight:137.4lbs
10 AM
Hiking 54:00 [3] 1.0 mi (54:01 / mi) +700ft 32:29 / mi
27 up, 27 down. Legs were good today. Nice.
Sport Climbing (American Fork/ Hideaway) 2:00:00 [5]
10d x2 to warm up.
3 burns on Margarita, incl one to hang the draws. 2 proper redpoint burns with 2 (or 5+?) false starts. On the last burn, fell moving my left foot up to prep to go to the last jug. Heartbreaker. I was in shock that I didn't send after fighting so hard. Once I calmed down, though, I acknowledged that I'm pretty fit to almost send that thing 2nd day on after hiking up to that place. Plus, it was a high point. I have the beta all worked out, I just need to execute. I also need to get more "surgical" in my use of resources throughout the week to maximize sending potential. #YOLO
3 burns on Margarita, incl one to hang the draws. 2 proper redpoint burns with 2 (or 5+?) false starts. On the last burn, fell moving my left foot up to prep to go to the last jug. Heartbreaker. I was in shock that I didn't send after fighting so hard. Once I calmed down, though, I acknowledged that I'm pretty fit to almost send that thing 2nd day on after hiking up to that place. Plus, it was a high point. I have the beta all worked out, I just need to execute. I also need to get more "surgical" in my use of resources throughout the week to maximize sending potential. #YOLO
Saturday Mar 28, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.4 weight:137.6lbs
10 AM
Hiking 51:00 [3] 1.0 mi (51:01 / mi) +700ft 30:40 / mi
27 up, 24 down to/ from the Hideaway. My legs actually didn't feel that bad when I got back to the car.
11 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork/ Hideaway) 2:00:00 [5]
2 x 10d to warm up.
Flashed Cinnamon Bay (12c) with the beta spray down from B. Psyched. Didn't climb for about 90min as she tried CB a couple times. Went to Margarita (12c), hung the draws. Fell at the last bolt on the redpoint burn, which is a high point. Nuts. Really hoped to do both those routes today. Fought hard. Did my best. Awesome and super hot day.
Flashed Cinnamon Bay (12c) with the beta spray down from B. Psyched. Didn't climb for about 90min as she tried CB a couple times. Went to Margarita (12c), hung the draws. Fell at the last bolt on the redpoint burn, which is a high point. Nuts. Really hoped to do both those routes today. Fought hard. Did my best. Awesome and super hot day.
Friday Mar 27, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.9 weight:137.4lbs (rest day)
Thursday Mar 26, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.7 weight:137lbs
Slept ok, but not enough. Bad head space this morning. Darn.
5 PM
Road Run 30:00 [3] 3.0 mi (10:00 / mi) +150ft 9:33 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6
Unplanned rd/ trail jog after going to the gym and seeing that yoga was cancelled. So lame. Glad i got out the door. At least I got the first run in a long time out of the way.
Wednesday Mar 25, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.7 weight:137.4lbs
Bouldering today, either gym or LCC. Psyched to get out and move!
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]
I wasn't that psyched to boulder but wanted to get outside. Sunny and cool out. Cabbage patch circuit up to v6. Finally repeated Butt Trumpet (v8). Did Crystal Traverse first go. Tried Super Fly but w/out much motivation. Good to get out. I just don't really dig bouldering up there anymore. 47 points (v0-8)
Tuesday Mar 24, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.5 weight:138.4lbs
Feeling much better today after getting to bed by 8:30 last night.
Monday Mar 23, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)
Slept poorly, waking a few times starting at 3:45 and having trouble falling back asleep. I feel pretty wrecked this morning. Skin on both hands is wrecked and hurts. I'm ready for a few days of rest and recharge. Man, I'm cooked. Great weekend though.
Sunday Mar 22, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.3 weight:137.6lbs
I woke up feeling the same as I did when I went to bed. Right SI is still a little stiff. Overall, energy is pretty low this morning. The fall off the performance peak seems to have occurred. Wow.
10 AM
Hiking 54:00 [3] 1.0 mi (54:01 / mi) +700ft 32:29 / mi
32 up, ~23 down. To/ from Hideaway. Legs weren't vibrating when I got back to the car, unlike last time. Brutal.
Sport Climbing (American Fork/ Hideaway) 2:00:00 [4]
Awesome day.
10c, 11d 2nd go Tuna Melt, 12b 3rd go Bamboo- really good, pretty long. Psyched to get it done. I felt so tired before getting on it the 3rd time. Great route and so fun to go somewhere new, away from the interstate, in the mountains.
10c, 11d 2nd go Tuna Melt, 12b 3rd go Bamboo- really good, pretty long. Psyched to get it done. I felt so tired before getting on it the 3rd time. Great route and so fun to go somewhere new, away from the interstate, in the mountains.
Saturday Mar 21, 2015 #
9 AM
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:8.8 weight:137.2lbs
11a, 11c
A few burns on Grushenka to try the link up but couldn't do the crux. Fortunately, B sent so we don't have to go back until next year. Fun day still. Onsighted the 11c on the wall across the gulley- kinda hard. Tired today. I hope to fell better tmw.
A few burns on Grushenka to try the link up but couldn't do the crux. Fortunately, B sent so we don't have to go back until next year. Fun day still. Onsighted the 11c on the wall across the gulley- kinda hard. Tired today. I hope to fell better tmw.
Friday Mar 20, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.1 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)
Body feeling okay. I hope my skin feels better by tomorrow though.
Thursday Mar 19, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:138lbs (rest day)
A little wrecked this morning. Shouldn't have climbed yesterday. Oh well. Live and learn.
Wednesday Mar 18, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.7 weight:138.4lbs
Getting to bed too late. I feel pretty wrecked this morning and may not climb at Echo today. TBD. Skin is a little battered. Left middle finger is torn from the nail but doesn't hurt nearly as bad as I thought it would (not yet, anyway).
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 30:00 [3]
Went out there after work for B to try her proj. I felt good warming up on the 11a and 11c but felt weak on 2 burns on Grushenka, although I got some new beta for the crux. I'm finally starting to feel a little over that place. I'm psyched for B to send though, so we'll be going back as long as it takes.
I was destroyed by the time we got home. Good to disappear for a while during the week though.
I was destroyed by the time we got home. Good to disappear for a while during the week though.
Tuesday Mar 17, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.1 weight:139.6lbs
Feel ok this morning. Hope to send Intruder after work.
5 PM
Sport Climbing (Big Cottonwood Canyon) 1:00:00 [4]
Intruder session. High point falling going to the mono. Nuts. No send but productive. Worked out new beta for clipping anchors. Gotta respect it as a proper proj and show up fresh and psyched. I need to not get too greedy and be sure to rest between redpoint days.
Monday Mar 16, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.8 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)
Didn't sleep that well. Body and skin feel pretty wrecked this morning. Amazing weekend though!
Sunday Mar 15, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.5 weight:138lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [4]
10-4. Long day in the sun. TR 11 3x, send Little Red Rooster (12c) and the 12a on the wall across the gulley two times- once from the ground w/ a choosy boulder start and once from the stand on rocks start, which was cooler and more powerful. So, I did what I set out to do for the day. Great weekend. I'm digging riding the peaking wave and I'll ride it as long as I can. Aside from the Grushenka to Stop That Terrain link-up, I've done all the routes at Dry Wall- pretty rad.
Saturday Mar 14, 2015 #
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 1:30:00 [4]
11a, 11c, send JJ Memorial (5.13b) 4th try of the day. Boom! Psyched. Empty mind. No expectations. Just curious to see what would happen. CD on 10b.
Friday Mar 13, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.2 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)
Thursday Mar 12, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.4lbs
Slept pretty poorly last night, probably from sleeping late and coffee too late in the day. Feel pretty good this morning with no noticeable soreness/ stiffness from the gym yesterday.
5 PM
Yoga/ Stretching 1:00:00 [1]
3 weeks in a row! I feel better than I did after work, which counts for something.
Wednesday Mar 11, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.5 weight:138lbs
Big sleep. Really needed it. Light from not eating dinner. I wasn't hungry b/c I ate before climbing last night.
11 AM
Bouldering (Gym) 2:00:00 [3]
Lehi gym. Climbed pretty well. Did lots of 5s 1st or 2nd go. V6 2nd go. Flash a v6. Send v7 2nd go. Hardly anyone there. I did some pretty hard body tension moves on mostly big pinchy holds. In all, a fun and okay power session. Psyched to get back outside on Sat. Probably hit yoga after work tmw.
Tuesday Mar 10, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:139.2lbs
6 PM
Sport Climbing (Big Cottonwood Canyon) 30:00 [3]
Quick PM session that got started a little late.
wu on 10d, 11d, TR 11d from 2nd bolt at the Pile
Worked beta on Intruder. The moves felt fine. The holds feel bigger than they did lat summer. I just need to show up fresh and psyched with a psyched partner, which is probably the hardest part for that route. Good to get out. Probably hit the gym tmw.
wu on 10d, 11d, TR 11d from 2nd bolt at the Pile
Worked beta on Intruder. The moves felt fine. The holds feel bigger than they did lat summer. I just need to show up fresh and psyched with a psyched partner, which is probably the hardest part for that route. Good to get out. Probably hit the gym tmw.
Monday Mar 9, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:140.4lbs
Woke up a lot last night thinking about the sequence of the proj. I can't remember if that's ever happened before. I feel tired but ok this morning.
Sunday Mar 8, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.8 weight:140.6lbs
I don't feel too bad this morning. Skin a little thin. Psyched to get out!
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [5]
wu OS Be Frank 11a, 11a
2 hung JJ Memorial on 1st burn, high point and 1 hang on 2nd burn! Could've sent it. Awesome and encouragin, but maddening. 3rd burn ended at 3rd move. Cooked. Tried Little Red Rooster (12c) Did all but the first move, which is the crux. Ended up being a mini cooldown. Awesome day. I think I can do JJ Memorial next go, which won't be for a week. Feeling strong.
2 hung JJ Memorial on 1st burn, high point and 1 hang on 2nd burn! Could've sent it. Awesome and encouragin, but maddening. 3rd burn ended at 3rd move. Cooked. Tried Little Red Rooster (12c) Did all but the first move, which is the crux. Ended up being a mini cooldown. Awesome day. I think I can do JJ Memorial next go, which won't be for a week. Feeling strong.
Saturday Mar 7, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.5 weight:140lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [5]
wu 11a, 11c
3 "half" burns on JJ Memorial (13b). Figured out the bottom on second burn. So, I've now done all of the moves. Psyched. I know I can do it. Probably go back tmw and keep at it. Sunny, gorgeous day out there. Good vibes with Jaima and Hayden out there too.
3 "half" burns on JJ Memorial (13b). Figured out the bottom on second burn. So, I've now done all of the moves. Psyched. I know I can do it. Probably go back tmw and keep at it. Sunny, gorgeous day out there. Good vibes with Jaima and Hayden out there too.
Friday Mar 6, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.2 weight:140.6lbs (rest day)
Likely rest today, maybe go on a walk. Psyched anything this weekend.
Thursday Mar 5, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.4 weight:140.6lbs
Woke up with a stuffy nose and sore throat. My head feels a little congested/ heavy.
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym) 18:00 [3]
Basically a warm up for yoga. A couple easy problems up to v5. Bailed on a run. Crappy end to the work day, and a run wasn't what I wanted.
5 PM
Yoga/ Stretching 1:00:00 [1]
Deep Flow class at the gym. The sub teacher was really good, flowed well. Hopefully, this will help with flexibility, but I'm more interested in it to clean out my head. Hating work so ****ing much after I'm being negatively affected by something that had nothing to do with me. Blah blah blah. ****! So psyched to climb outside this weekend.
Wednesday Mar 4, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.2 weight:140.2lbs (rest day)
Throat started hurting a little toward the end of the day. Resting with hopes of not getting sick.
Tuesday Mar 3, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.3 weight:140.4lbs
To bed before 7:30 last night but woke a few times throughout the night.
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym) 1:45:00 [3]
Pretty awesome session. I feel like the training is being absorbed and paying off. Send 2 new 5s, send hard 5 proj, v7 proj, and old v6 proj at the end. Rested a lot between burns on the 7. Progress on another 7 I'd tried last week. Drank Skratch labs (~16oz over 2.5 hours). Psyched for the next 3 weeks to hopefully hit a new level.
Sunday Mar 1, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.0 weight:139.2lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Gym) 2:30:00 [4]
Fun day at the Mill Creek gym. Steep and long routes.
8 pitches: 10b,10d, 11b, 11d, 12a 2nd go, 11c, 11b
Good mellow mileage. It was really nice to get a change of scenery. Needed it.
8 pitches: 10b,10d, 11b, 11d, 12a 2nd go, 11c, 11b
Good mellow mileage. It was really nice to get a change of scenery. Needed it.