Training Log Archive: chinoIn the 30 days ending Apr 30, 2015:
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| « | » |
| » now | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Thursday Apr 30, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.8lbs
5 PM
Yoga/ Stretching 1:00:00 [3]
Good session with some new moves I'd never done. The sub, Michael, was good. I think I'm getting more flexible. Still digging this class as active recovery.
Wednesday Apr 29, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.7 weight:138.2lbs
Ziti for dinner last night. Forearms still a little pumped from ARCing (and raking?) yesterday. Maybe modify the HB workout today to accommodate that. Not sure if we'll be climbing outside this weekend, so I'll just keep going through the training motions.
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym) 36:00 [3]
Warm Up for HB4 at home. Stayed too long again but sent v proj 2nd go. Flashed two new 5s and did a steep 5 second go. Climbed well for 2nd day on and ARC yesterday.
5 PM
Hangboard 9:00 [4]
Beginner workout. Added weight for 2 exercises. Decided not to add sets or do intermediate workout as it was 2nd day on and Sun workout was pretty hard. Don't get greedy! Ended with a weighted plank and push up position set, plus 2 sets of leg lifts hanging from the slopers. Good stuff. Ready for some rest. Likely go to yoga tmw.
Tuesday Apr 28, 2015 #
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym- ARC) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:7.7 weight:139.4lbs
Bouldered for about 40-45min, flashed a new v6 and a couple 5s. No mojo on v7 proj I split my tip on last week.
12min ARC on kids wall, which was fine.
Finished w/ 3 sets of leg lifts and 3x 10 dips.
Did ~30min yard work when I got home. ARCing was probably a bad idea the day before a HB workout. Needed to move and breathe today though.
12min ARC on kids wall, which was fine.
Finished w/ 3 sets of leg lifts and 3x 10 dips.
Did ~30min yard work when I got home. ARCing was probably a bad idea the day before a HB workout. Needed to move and breathe today though.
Monday Apr 27, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.4 weight:137.8lbs
Woke at 2 and took a while to fall back asleep. I have some general upper body fatigue, but nothing is sore after workout yesterday.
About 1.8 hours of yard work after work. Dang. Got after it with the thatch rake, then mowed the lawn. Gotta get that yard work fitness back. Active recovery.
About 1.8 hours of yard work after work. Dang. Got after it with the thatch rake, then mowed the lawn. Gotta get that yard work fitness back. Active recovery.
Sunday Apr 26, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.5 weight:137.6lbs
Gray and rainy. Likely a gym / training day then yard work.
11 AM
Bouldering (Gym) 1:42:00 [3]
Lehi gym. Low energy gray day. Bailed on the finishing move on a long v7 in the cave. Did a v6 2nd go and flashed a 5. Tried a few different 6s and 7s but didn't send much today. No power, low psyche.
1 PM
Hangboard (HB3) 12:00 [5]
30min after leaving gym - Beginner workout + 3 sets w/ added weight. The weighted sets went really well. Psyched. I'm going to modify HB4 on Tue or Wed to make it a little harder or maybe just try the intermediate workout. Good session.
Strength Training 6:00 [3]
lateral to front 3x 10 @10lb
2 sets leg lifts
3x 10 push ups slow (30sec/ set)
2 sets leg lifts
3x 10 push ups slow (30sec/ set)
Saturday Apr 25, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.4lbs
Friday Apr 24, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:137.6lbs
Up past 10:30 last night. Long night at work. Feel ok this morning.
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]
Frontera OS 10d, 10a repeat, tried Powder Keg 12c but didn't finish it. I whipped after breaking off a hand hold. It was really hard. Maybe a lot of stuff has broken off. Got to the top of Captain Bullet 12d, which is really good. I hope we can get back on it on Sunday.
Wrapped up the day at Early Bird Crag: OS 12b Angry Birds way soft and Holes in the Universe 11c
I was pretty tired today.It was good to get down there though. Fun day.
Wrapped up the day at Early Bird Crag: OS 12b Angry Birds way soft and Holes in the Universe 11c
I was pretty tired today.It was good to get down there though. Fun day.
Thursday Apr 23, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.2 weight:137.6lbs (rest day)
13+ hour work day on tap. Get it done. Got to bed at almost 10 last night.
Wednesday Apr 22, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.2 weight:138lbs (rest day)
Having trouble sleeping well this week.
Ended up running errands and doing some house stuff after work. I'm not sweating having too many rest days while starting to hangboard and boulder in the gym again. I want to be sure to keep my fingers and shoulders healthy. The hole in my right index tip needs to heal too.
Ended up running errands and doing some house stuff after work. I'm not sweating having too many rest days while starting to hangboard and boulder in the gym again. I want to be sure to keep my fingers and shoulders healthy. The hole in my right index tip needs to heal too.
Tuesday Apr 21, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:138.2lbs
Need to get to bed earlier. Gym and HB2 planned for this afternoon.
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym) 1:00:00 [4]
Fun problems. Flashed a bunch of new stuff up to ~v6. Split my right index tip on a v6/7-ish problem. Nuts. Fun session but still stayed too long "warming up" for the hangboard session.
5 PM
Hangboard (HB2) 9:00 [4]
This session felt kind of hard. Got it done.
Strength Training 6:00 [3]
2 sets leg lifts on the hangboard.
5x 10 slow push ups. Each set took about 30 seconds, so I got the plank/ core burn going too. I may do these instead of weights for the next couple weeks. Kind of low energy, post gym+ HB.
5x 10 slow push ups. Each set took about 30 seconds, so I got the plank/ core burn going too. I may do these instead of weights for the next couple weeks. Kind of low energy, post gym+ HB.
Monday Apr 20, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:137.2lbs (rest day)
Generally tired and a little sore today. Didn't sleep great. I don't feel that bad, though, for a Monday.
4 PM
Road Run 20:22 [3] 2.31 mi (8:49 / mi) +50ft 8:38 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6
I just wanted to get out and move after a long day at work. Legs were ok. Threw in some sprints up to 30sec. It felt fine, but I don't miss running. Stretch and foam roll after.
Sunday Apr 19, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.8 weight:137.8lbs
Feel a little beat up today.
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]
Frontera
OS 10c, 11b, 12a 2nd go, Flash 12a, Flash 11d
Great day with great temps. Perfect to get out of town for a few hours. Really fun routes we'd never been on too.
OS 10c, 11b, 12a 2nd go, Flash 12a, Flash 11d
Great day with great temps. Perfect to get out of town for a few hours. Really fun routes we'd never been on too.
Saturday Apr 18, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.0 weight:137.8lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]
Stard at hell. 10a x 2. Did reaching for razors 11d 3x after basically false starting twice on reanimator. Worst day of the year there. Weird day though with Bs bros climbing with us. Still fun. Ended the day with 2 tries on nuclear criminal 12b. No send but really cool route. Old school hard and a little scary. Kind of a big volume day, despite not sending anything new.
Friday Apr 17, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.2 weight:139.2lbs
Slept ok. Heavy from 2 bowls of lentil chili last night. Forearms, esp. right one, are still a little sore from Tues HB workout.
Thursday Apr 16, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.8 weight:138lbs
To bed last night by 8:10. Good sleep, just need more of it. Yoga today. Weekend weather looks good.
5 PM
Yoga/ Stretching 1:00:00 [3]
Wednesday Apr 15, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.4 weight:137.8lbs
Shoulders a little sore from, I think, shoulder press last night. Either yoga or complete rest today.
Tuesday Apr 14, 2015 #
4 PM
Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]
Climbed ok. Flashed a couple 5s and 6s, plus some other 5s. Stayed too late long though. Fun.
6 PM
Hangboard 9:00 [4]
HB1 at gown after the gym. yeah baby. Back at it. New Trango hangboard and pulley system are sick.
Strength Training 6:00 [3]
Light weights. Sure.
Monday Apr 13, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.9 weight:137lbs (rest day)
Didn't sleep great. Back to work. Body tired but not really sore.
Sunday Apr 12, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:138.2lbs
11 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:42:00 [3]
Beer Can Alley
OS 10c/d, 10d, 11c, 11c, 11a/b, 5.9+
Active recovery day. Each route about 40'. Fun. Sunny and warm by noon.
OS 10c/d, 10d, 11c, 11c, 11a/b, 5.9+
Active recovery day. Each route about 40'. Fun. Sunny and warm by noon.
Saturday Apr 11, 2015 #
9 AM
Hiking 21:00 [3] 1.0 mi (21:00 / mi) +200ft 17:39 / mi
To/from crag
Sport Climbing (Grail) 1:30:00 [4]
slept:10.0
wu 10d (Crusade?)
Send Goodness 12b/c 2nd go of the day, 4th go total
OS Way of the Peaceful Bolter 12a
4 pitches. Psyched to send Goodness- got a little mental about it. OS of Peaceful Bolter was icing on the cake. Awesome 2 days there.
Send Goodness 12b/c 2nd go of the day, 4th go total
OS Way of the Peaceful Bolter 12a
4 pitches. Psyched to send Goodness- got a little mental about it. OS of Peaceful Bolter was icing on the cake. Awesome 2 days there.
Friday Apr 10, 2015 #
10 AM
Sport Climbing 2:30:00 [3]
Grail Day 1
wu on 10a
OS Mesquiter 12a- rad
Did all the moves on Mantis 12c- no send, 140'!!
2 burns on Goodness 12b/c
wu on 10a
OS Mesquiter 12a- rad
Did all the moves on Mantis 12c- no send, 140'!!
2 burns on Goodness 12b/c
Hiking 54:00 [3] 2.0 mi (27:00 / mi) +300ft 23:38 / mi
slept:7.5
Hike to/from crag from campsite. Didn't sleep great after getting out there late.
Thursday Apr 9, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)
Wednesday Apr 8, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.2 weight:139lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (Gym) 2:30:00 [4]
Fun session. 10b+10b, 11b, 12a 2nd go, 12a/b first go, 12a 2nd go+ 10a. 9 pitches. Core stuff at the end.
Tuesday Apr 7, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.4 weight:138.2lbs
Slept til 8:35. Wow.
Monday Apr 6, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.8lbs
Deep sleep til 8.
10 AM
Yoga/ Stretching 1:15:00 [3]
At mt. yoga. Harder than expected but got it done. Good class, good active recovery. I didn't feel totally incompetent.
Sunday Apr 5, 2015 #
Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.8lbs
Big sleep. I don't feel as rested as I'd have hoped, but maybe that will change once the coffee kicks in.
10 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork/ Hell) 2:00:00 [4]
10a 2x, 11d, 2 burns on Reanimator- no send but better than yesterday and better attitude. Getting used to that place again. One burn on Burning (13b) working out beta. Got to new high point- fell at 8th bolt- did the "crux." This is likely to be a long-term proj but is super fun to climb on. Sending / making progress on Burning would be a whole new level for me. Motivating.
Saturday Apr 4, 2015 #
Note
slept:9.0 weight:138.2lbs
10 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]
Hell. 10a 2x, 11d, 3 burns on reanimator. Got spanked on it today. Not sure if I was just tired or I have to get used to the style of climbing there again. It's just hard. I'd expected to send today. Oh well. Maybe go back Wednesday.
Friday Apr 3, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.8lbs
Thursday Apr 2, 2015 #
Note
slept:8.7 weight:138lbs
Got to sleep in a little. Bailed on climbing yesterday, probably for the best to let my thumb, body, mind rest til the weekend. Snowing right now.
5 PM
Road Run 27:49 [3] 3.21 mi (8:40 / mi) +150ft 8:18 / mi
shoes: Saucony Ride 6
Cool and sunny. Legs ok. Had to get out after sitting all day. Not that enjoyable though. Oh well.
Wednesday Apr 1, 2015 #
Note
slept:7.5 weight:137.8lbs
Need more sleep. Arms and shoulders feel really tired this morning from working on/ installing the campus board, which is almost ready to go. It was more epic than I expected, especially b/c of the small space. I stabbed my right thumb with the drill too when it slipped off a screw. Moron. More of a nuisance than proper injury. Could have been worse.