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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Jan 31, 2015:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	7	10:30:00
	Bouldering	9	8:23:00
	Trail Run	2	1:15:00	6.27	(11:58)	10.09	(7:26)	400
	Hiking	1	45:00	1.5	(30:00)	2.41	(18:38)	500
	Strength Training	5	42:00
	Hangboard	4	36:00
	Road Run	1	30:36	3.3	(9:16)	5.31	(5:46)	150
	Campusing	1	15:00
	Total	27	22:56:36	11.07		17.82		1050
averages - sleep:8.7 weight:140.2lbs

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Saturday Jan 31, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:141.2lbs

11 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:48:00 [3]

Fun day at Lehi gym after getting cold/ fogged out at Rock Canyon. Flashed a soft 7 in the big cave. FLashed a 6 and 2(?) others 2nd go. Flashed a couple 5s. Fun to climb on some problems and get the ego fluffed on the relatively soft grades.

Friday Jan 30, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:140.4lbs (rest day)

Thursday Jan 29, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:140.4lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 30:00 [3]

Mellow and lazy. Tried to link some sequences on a hard v6 in the cave. Repeat a soft cave v5. Just wanted to move and breathe a little after work.

Wednesday Jan 28, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:140.8lbs

Shoulders are sore, but ok, this morning.

Tuesday Jan 27, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:140.8lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [3]

Decent session. Sent 2 v5/6 I hadn't done last time.

5 PM

Campusing 15:00 [3]

Modified beginner workout. 14sets

Strength Training 15:00 [3]

3x 12 dips
8 reps x 20, 25, 30lb curls
Leg lifts, 2x weighted plank 30sec, go get ems 2 sets

Monday Jan 26, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.4lbs

I'm going to try to stay psyched to run after work today.

4 PM

Trail Run 39:00 [3] 3.1 mi (12:35 / mi) +150ft 12:02 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Slow and easy. Spring temps, winter air. Good to move the legs two days in a row.

Sunday Jan 25, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:141.4lbs

Sport Climbing (AF- Billboard) 1:15:00 [4]

wu on 10c, TR11a
Send Gorillas in the Snow 5.12b 3rd go
Skin and forearms were pretty cooked after that. Nuts.
Cooled down on a 10a-ish. Solid day. Curious to see how I can perform during the performance phase in a couple months. 12b was a decent send today considering the increased intensity with hangboarding. Stick with it.

11 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 1.5 mi (30:00 / mi) +500ft 22:48 / mi

To/ from the billboard. 28min up- not bad. Legs were jello on the way down though. I need to get my legs back.

Saturday Jan 24, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.25 weight:140.2lbs

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo) 12:00 [3]

Too cold. Did the 11a twice. Oh well. Rest day.

Friday Jan 23, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:140lbs

In bed before 8:10. Slept so-so.

Thursday Jan 22, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.8lbs

Throat hurts a little this morning. Tired. Don't get sick!

5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 30:00 [3]

Bailed on a run. B was going to the gym, so I met her there. Packed with f***ing kids. Bad day at work. Bad energy. I just need to sleep for a couple days. Climbed easy up to v4.

Wednesday Jan 21, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140.2lbs

My upper body feels a little wrecked this morning. Depending on what time I get out of work, I'll run or just rest. Psyched to go into the weekend fresh to crush in AF and Echo.

Tuesday Jan 20, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:140lbs

Slept poorly.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 51:00 [3]

Climbed some new stuff up to v5 or so (probs not rated yet).

5 PM

Hangboard (HB4) 9:00 [5]

Modified Beginner- felt hard tonight but got it done. Definitely not recovered from the weekend but was able to do a full set on a proper medium/ smallish edge, which I couldn't do last week.

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

3 sets abs (legs lifts, 2.5min plank series, go get 'ems)
3x 12 dips
2x 10, 1x12 @15lb curls

Monday Jan 19, 2015 #

Note
slept:11.0 weight:139.8lbs

Sunday Jan 18, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:140.6lbs

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 1:30:00 [3]

11a, 11c, 12a repeat Stop that Terrain- nice, worked out crux sequence of Grushenka again- got on it to keep 1st 3 bolts clipped so B could work it. Beat run on Wicked Bender- got through crux sequence on Pit, then pumped out. I have a good sequence. I just need to show up with the guns. Good day in the sun. Can't believe no one else was there today.

Saturday Jan 17, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.6 weight:139.8lbs

Hangboard (HB3) 9:00 [4]

Modified beginner workout but was able to do 2 pinch sets b/c I was at the gym. Solid workout.

11 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:15:00 [4]

Good session. Sent v6 proj from Tues with new beta, but it took almost an hour to put it all together. Then, I did the crimpy v7 proj first go. Psyched.

12 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

3x 10 @8lb lateral to front shoulder raise
2 sets leg lifts, 2min plank series

Really good day at the gym. Sucks to not get outside on such a gorgeous day but, big picture, time in the gym is going to help me climb harder routes. Psyched to climb and keep training. The HB workouts are feeling a little easier physically. Mentally, I'm getting better at engaging with each one.

Friday Jan 16, 2015 #

Note
slept:6.7 weight:140lbs

Coughing a little this morning. Powered by Friday. Don't get sick!

Thursday Jan 15, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:140lbs

13+ hour work day on tap. Legs a little tired this morning, but nothing hurts. Get it done.

Wednesday Jan 14, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:140lbs

5 PM

Road Run 30:36 [3] 3.3 mi (9:16 / mi) +150ft 8:53 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy CCW gully loop with some strides and hill sprints thrown in throughout. Legs were actually pretty good. Head out at 5:30 after work and grocery shopping- just felt like going. Nice temps.

Tuesday Jan 13, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.6 weight:140.2lbs

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

1x 10, 2x 12 curls @ 12.5lb, 2 sets leg lifts on there hangboard. So psyched on the hangboard now.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:15:00 [4]

Worked v6 project and fell on 2nd last move of a v7. Stayed too long but was there with school club.

5 PM

Hangboard 9:00 [5]

Modified beginner work out. Solid session despite burning so many matches at the gym. Psyched to get it done.

Monday Jan 12, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.8lbs

Sunday Jan 11, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.3 weight:140.2lbs

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 2:30:00 [4]

Long day at the gym today.
wu TR 10b+11a, 10d, 11b, send 11c/d proj 4th go of the day. Rating on it was updated to 12b, which makes me feel much better. 11d, 11a, 10d. 11 pitches. Ended with 3x 12 dips and some leg lifts/ core stuff. Solid mileage day w/ a goal send in there too. Ate a CLif bar and drank a bottle of Perpetuem- stayed fueled and hydrated.

Saturday Jan 10, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.1 weight:140.4lbs

12 PM

Trail Run 36:00 [3] 3.17 mi (11:21 / mi) +250ft 10:34 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Easy with B in corner canyon. Walked a little on the climbs to be able to stay out longer than 20min. Good to get out. Maybe I'll start doing it more often.

Friday Jan 9, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.2lbs

5 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]

9 pitches up to 11d. Not recovered from Wed hangboard workout. Got to new high point on hard steep 11c/d. Probably should have just stayed on 11b and easier or ARC'd.

Thursday Jan 8, 2015 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:140lbs

Wednesday Jan 7, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.8lbs

5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 20:00 [3]

Went to the gym to boulder to warm up for a hangboard workout at home.
20min bouldering up to v6. I did a new 5 and 4 first try each today that I couldn't do yesterday, which was awesome. 20min after leaving the bouldering area I was at home on the hangboard.

6 PM

Strength Training 9:00 [3]

shoulder press 3x 12 @12.5lb
bicep curl 3x10 @ 12.5lb
2x 60sec plank
Wake up call as far as how out of overall shape I am. The new job has been a huge energy suck the past several months. I just need to get dedicated.

Hangboard 9:00 [4]

Modified Beginner workout. Our board doesn't have pinches. See paper notes for how I changed it. 9 exercises (sets) of 6 reps/ set set: 10 sec on, 5 sec rest. 3min rest b/t sets. Solid session. Got me more psyched to train.

Tuesday Jan 6, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:140lbs

5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 24:00 [3]

Quick bouldering after supervising the climbing club. I flashed a new 3 and 5, and then quickly realized I wasn't very recovered from the 3 days on of 5 ending Sunday. No big deal. I'll do hangboard workout 1 tmw.

Monday Jan 5, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:140lbs

Good sleep. Only woke a few times during the night.

Sunday Jan 4, 2015 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:141.4lbs

Gray out today. Back to the gym.

12 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:48:00 [4]

10b, 11a, 11b, 12a, tried steep 12c again, one hung a 12a
Went to bouldering area and didn't send a v6. 60sec plank
Tired today. I need a solid rest from climbing. Back to work tmw. Darn.

Saturday Jan 3, 2015 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:141.2lbs

Ate and drank too much last night. No discipline.

Friday Jan 2, 2015 #

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:45:00 [3]
slept:9.5 weight:140.4lbs

Wu 10b + 11b
11b, 3 hung a hard 11c/d. 3 hung a 12c/d
Kind of lost our psyche on routes so decided to cool down bouldering, and I did the v7 project 3rd go. Rad. That redeemed my otherwise worst performance day in the gym in a while. I think my endurance and power are fine. It's power endurance that is holding me back. Starting the strath phase next week.
Finished with 3x 10 dips and 2min plank series.

Thursday Jan 1, 2015 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140.2lbs

Went to bed at 11. Didn't sleep that well but feel ok this morning.

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