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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Dec 31, 2014:

activity # timemileskm+ft
  Sport Climbing10 17:00:00
  Bouldering3 6:30:00
  Trail Run3 1:38:20 8.4(11:42) 13.52(7:16) 900
  Road Run2 51:00 5.3(9:37) 8.53(5:59) 150
  Hiking1 45:00 2.0(22:30) 3.22(13:59) 300
  Strength Training1 30:00
  Total20 27:14:20 15.7 25.27 1350
averages - sleep:8.8 weight:139.2lbs

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Wednesday Dec 31, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:142.2lbs

I haven't been this heavy all year maybe. Good sleep. Single digit temps outside but may try to get out for a jog.
11 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 2:00:00 [3]

About 80 min of bouldering to a v6 flash. Flashed two v5s and a few 4s. Worked a new v7.
25min ARC traverse bouldering on kids wall.
8, 2x 10 dips, 8 pull ups
Leg lifts/ core

Good session. Dips didn't hurt my shoulder. I'm psyched to do more cool down in the weight room again. It felt good.

Bouldering (Gym) 2:00:00 [3]

About 85 min of bouldering. Flash v6, 2 v5s, and a few 4s. Worked a new v7.
25min ARC bouldering.
Dips 8, 10, 10 didn't hurt my shoulder. Psyched to do those again.
8 pull ups, which felt a little tweaky.
Core: leg lifts, go get ems.

Solid session. More fun than running in arctic temps.

Tuesday Dec 30, 2014 #

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Chuckawalla) 1:30:00 [3]
slept:10.0

Pretty cold start but ended up being a really good mellow mileage session.
11b, 10d super fun, 12a second go super cool, 10c twice for 6 mini pitches before driving home.

Monday Dec 29, 2014 #

10 AM

Sport Climbing 2:30:00 [4]
slept:7.5

Turtle wall 11a, 10c 2nd go, 11d, 12a 2nd go
Chuckwalla 11d
Psyched to do some new routes in the sun and get some moderate mileage.
Felt ok considering we stayed up so late.

Sunday Dec 28, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:139.2lbs

Saturday Dec 27, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:140.2lbs

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Rock Canyon) 1:00:00 [3]

Superbowl: 11a, 11a, 12a, tried the 12b proj but the hold I have to go big to was wet. Oh well. Did the 12a (Higher, Harder One) again to clean it.

An easy low mileage day, but it was f'ing rad to get outside. 23F in the parking lot. Maybe upper 40s at the wall until the clouds came in. Then, the temps plummeted. I stayed within the base phase difficulty level. It's arbitrary, but I'm glad to be able to casually do a couple laps on a 12a despite not having been climbing that much (or so it feels like).

Friday Dec 26, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:141.2lbs

Fat from ziti and probably 1000+ booze calories last night. Merry Christmas. Jeez.
12 PM

Trail Run 29:00 [3] 2.1 mi (13:48 / mi) +500ft 11:16 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Slow jog/ hike in the snow. Low energy. Super cold with headwind on the second half. Good to get out. Head is just not in a good place right now.

Thursday Dec 25, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:139.2lbs

Got to bed at 11 after xmas eve family stuff. Back feels ok, a little tweaky after shoveling snow.

Wednesday Dec 24, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:140lbs

Feel like a blob today. Gotta get back it w/out regressing with my back. Maybe boulder easy in the gym, core, stretch. Going a little nuts but no sense in getting bummed over what I can't control.
10 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [3]

60min bouldering up to v5. 22min ARC traversing, decent pump and sweat going. Ended with some core stuff upstairs. Decent workout to get the cobwebs out but dying to climb outside. Back was generally fine, no problems.

Tuesday Dec 23, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.8lbs

Back still stiff but a little better.
12 PM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +300ft 19:42 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Mellow hike from on BST from TH I don't think I've been to. If so, it was 10 years ago. My back talked to me a little but was overall fine. Just doing a little recon and soaking up some Nice to get out.

Monday Dec 22, 2014 #

Note
slept:12.0 weight:139.2lbs

Big sleep despite waking a few times b/c of my back. Still super stiff this morning. Nuts. Ice, ibu, and rest.

Sunday Dec 21, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:137.6lbs

Up late after seeing Hobbit last night. Hopefully, that's the last one. Cold and rainy. Off to the gym.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:00:00 [3]

10c+10d wu
11c, 10c, 3 hang 12b/c ugh, 10d+10c
Back was a little tweaky before we left home but not bad. Got worse while at the gym. Is tweaked and spasmy now. Wtf? Ice, ibu, beer. Ride it out. Annoying.

Saturday Dec 20, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.3 weight:138.4lbs

Big sleep. Rolled out of bed at 8:45. Left knee hurts a little. Kind of feel like I'm fighting off a cold, and that's why I felt kind of weak last night.

Friday Dec 19, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.8 weight:138lbs

Went to bed at 8 last night. Feel pretty good this morning. Psyched to climb in the gym after work.

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:30:00 [3]

wu 10b+11a
11c/d, 11d/12a, 3 hang 12c, 3 hang 12 b/c, cd on 11a+10a
No specific objective tonight, just climb. 12c and 12b/c feel doable when I'm fresh. Got pumped early though on 3rd route, so I was definitely not rested/ recovered. Fun session though.

Thursday Dec 18, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)

Slept ok. Really psyched to climb.

Wednesday Dec 17, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.6lbs

Feel like a wrecked zombie this morning. Sets of 4 routes/ cascade would be better to start with. I got to bed too late again too.
5 PM

Road Run 28:00 [3] 3.0 mi (9:20 / mi) +150ft 8:55 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy jog from home that included about .5mi on dirt. Legs were good the first 2 miles, then totally deflated the last mile. I hadn't planned to run today but just felt like going a la Gump.

Tuesday Dec 16, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.1 weight:137.4lbs

Didn't have dinner last night. No appetite.
4 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 1:30:00 [4]

Warmed up with 30min bouldering. Flashed 2 soft v5s in the cave and 2 v4s in the cave.
With B did a 5 route cascade of 11c,11b,11a,11a,11b. Could've kept going. Belayed b on her 5 routes, then did a steep 11c arĂȘte to finish up.

Cascades are more fun and allow for climbing harder routes but come with the minute or so recovery between routes. I feel lame hogging an entire wall for ARCing. I think the key will be to do multiple routes, get a solid pump, but always be sure not to get buried on any given day.

Monday Dec 15, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.4lbs

Went to bed at 7:30 last night. Feel pretty good this morning.

Sunday Dec 14, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:139lbs

Snow! Nuts. To the gym.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 2:00:00 [4]

wu on 10b+10d
11c, 12a, 2 burns (2 hang each) on 12b, steep 12a 2nd go, cd 11a+10b TR
10 pitches. For this base phase, need to not get on harder than 12a/b. Definitely felt fatigued from Friday. Doing 2+ pitches of something easier than that 12b would have been wiser. Ego...Psyched to do the two 12as as moderate pitches though.

Saturday Dec 13, 2014 #

Note
slept:11.3 weight:139.2lbs

Big sleep. Not too stiff fro last night.
11 AM

Trail Run 33:00 [3] 3.1 mi (10:39 / mi) +200ft 10:02 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Easy+ 2x 8sec hill sprints. Legs pretty good. Felt good.

Friday Dec 12, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.2 weight:138lbs

Went to bed at 7:30 last night. Awesome.
4 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym- ARC) 2:00:00 [3]

wu: 10b+10b
21min ARC 11a,11a,11a,10d downclimbed a 10a after 1st 3 routes and hit 21min at top of 10d
~20min rest while belaying B
20min ARC 10c,11a,10b,10b downclimbed 10a after all 4 and climbed up a few moves of a 5th route before hitting 20min. I got into more of a rhythm and was able to go faster on the second ARC, plus the routes were a little easier.

Good base phase session. A couple more weeks of this, and then strength phase. It's a different mindset than any I've had climbing. But, the principles are all similar to triathlon, running, etc with periodization leading to a performance phase. It'll suck to lose some power for a bit, but I have faith in the overall plan.

Thursday Dec 11, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138.4lbs

Brought running stuff to work with the plan to hit a trail run after work. Make it happen.
4 PM

Trail Run 36:20 [3] 3.2 mi (11:21 / mi) +200ft 10:43 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Easy with B. Legs were ok. Good to get out after leaving work as early as I could. I've been staying too late the past 2 weeks. I'm cooked.

Wednesday Dec 10, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140.6lbs

Heaviest I've been in months after ziti last night and, apparently, just eating and drinking more (and having climbed less) over the past week. Still feel off from being up so late on Monday night. I'll try to get to bed earlier tonight.

Tuesday Dec 9, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:139.4lbs

5 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:00:00 [3]

Didn't feel great. Flashed up to v5. Stuff felt hard. Good to move though. During this base phase, I just need to be sure to not bury myself on any given day at the gym.

Monday Dec 8, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)

A little stiff and sore this morning but no tweakiness. The week off from climbing helped. The steepness of the routes this weekend worked me though. Left knee has been fine the past few days.

Sunday Dec 7, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:140.2lbs

Feel a little beat up this morning, definitely like I hadn't climbed in a week.

Sport Climbing (Rock Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]

11a, on sight 11c Texas chosspile, 3 burns on the 12b. Did all the moves. Crux is a full extension move.hope to get it next time. Bummed to not send it but feel good about the chossy 11c on sight. I felt relaxed and read the route well while getting pumped and wondering if I was going to rip off every hold. The difficulty of the routes isn't inceasing, but my efficiency and competence at those grades are improving.

Saturday Dec 6, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:139.4lbs

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Rock Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]

5.9, 11a, 11b, 12a Smash the Poser 12a 2nd go, 10d cool down. 6 pitches
Steep action started with the 11b and worked me. Psyched to get the 12a b/c it had a long lock off move to a slick intermediate. Solid day. So nice up there. Crazy weather. Probably go back tmw. 2 more routes to finish off the wall.

Friday Dec 5, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:139.4lbs (rest day)

Left knee still hurts a little but is a Lot better than the last 2 days. We're going climbing tmw. So psyched. It's not 2 weeks off, but a week off is the longest off I've had in over a year. The plan is to do easy to moderate mileage for the next couple weeks.

Thursday Dec 4, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.2lbs

Knee felt better when I got up but is starting to flare up again. I think it's slowly on the mend though.

Strength Training 30:00 [3]

Light weights in the gym.

Wednesday Dec 3, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:138.2lbs

Left knee hurts. Jeez. Iced it for ~15min when I woke. It hurts when I walk.

Tuesday Dec 2, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.4lbs

5 PM

Road Run 23:00 [3] 2.3 mi (10:00 / mi)
shoes: GreenMirage3

Slow, easy, and flat with B. Low energy no psyche at all. Work blues. I may lose my mind not climbing for 2 weeks.

Did some core and foam rolling after.

Monday Dec 1, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.4 weight:139.4lbs

Didn't sleep well.

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