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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 30 days ending Sep 30, 2014:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	6	11:30:00
	Bouldering	6	7:00:00
	Trail Run	5	2:42:30	15.83	(10:16)	25.48	(6:23)	2100
	Road Run	1	20:15	2.25	(9:00)	3.62	(5:36)	100
	Total	18	21:32:45	18.08		29.1		2200
averages - sleep:8.5 weight:138.3lbs

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Tuesday Sep 30, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.2lbs

Got to bed late.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:42:00 [3]

Back indoors. It rained today. Whatever. Climbed fine- flashed a few v5s, did a few v5s 2nd go. I got shut down within 3 moves on every v6 I got on. Gotta get the power back.

In the weight room:
Lat pulldown: I think...
8@ 65
5@ 90
3@ 120

bench:
3x 5@ 95lb- probably the last time I'll do bench

PLus some core stuff: leg lifts, plank and such.

1st day back at it. Psyched to increase volume during the week and start getting down to business.

Monday Sep 29, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:139.8lbs (rest day)

Sunday Sep 28, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.4 weight:139.2lbs

Putting some weight back on with access to cake.

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [4]

Fun day out there, despite no new sends.
Kinda busy there, so wu was 11a, then 2 or 3 hanging a 12b.
2 burns on Wicked Bender (13a), worked out all the beta. I think I can get it next time there- cool route.

Cd on 11c, which felt pumpy and long. I felt wrecked at the end. I fought hard the past 2 days on a couple routes. I feel officially psyched now to start training to prep for taking it up a level. I think I'm closing to maxing out my ability to climb hard by just climbing as much as possible, which has been my strategy the past year.

Saturday Sep 27, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:138.4lbs

Awesome sleep after drinks and cake. Gray and rainy today but going to get out and rip it up regardless. It's time to start really getting back at...something.

11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Rainy day but got 5 burns on True Lies (12c), including a high point after the 4th bolt. Cave was dry but got humid/ gummy. A lot of yelling today. Rain...grr.

Friday Sep 26, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:137.6lbs (rest day)

Didn't sleep great again. Better luck tonight.

Weird week. No mojo.

Thursday Sep 25, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.3 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)

Wednesday Sep 24, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:139lbs

Only woke up once during the night- the most uninterrupted night of sleep since school started.

4 PM

Trail Run (LCC) 30:00 [3] 3.33 mi (9:01 / mi) +500ft 7:53 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Best legs I've had in a while. Hit 3mi in under 27min. Mile 3 with the accel.s I threw in was 7:09. Finished with some skipping uphill in the parking lot. Hot.

Tuesday Sep 23, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:138.6lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 42:00 [3]

Hot, lots of bugs. Why do I keep going up there in these temps? Came home and did some ring push ups, horizontal pull ups, leg lifts.

Monday Sep 22, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.7 weight:139lbs (rest day)

Taking today off too. Feel better but still kind of wrecked. Psych is low too. Frustrated, but there's nothing I can do but let myself recover.

Sunday Sep 21, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:136.2lbs

Didn't get to bed until 11:30, had to supervise at Homecoming. Woke to light rain.

Note
slept:2.0

Nap from 1-3. Rainy, cranky day. Oh well. I just need to let it run its course.

Saturday Sep 20, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:138.6lbs

Really good sleep.

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 3:00:00 [3]

Almost 8 hours in the canyon. Sent Black Magic (12d) 3rd go of the day. 4 burns on True Lies (12c hard), which I hope to send tmw. Solid day. I was a broken man by the end. Fun day with B and friends.

Friday Sep 19, 2014 #

6 AM

Road Run 20:15 [3] 2.25 mi (9:00 / mi) +100ft 8:38 / mi
slept:8.2 weight:138.4lbs shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy before a late start work day. Had to get out and move around a little. So much sitting this week. Psyched to get back to AF tmw.

Thursday Sep 18, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.6 weight:138.2lbs

Wednesday Sep 17, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:138.4lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 42:00 [3]

Super f'ing hot. I didn't have enough food with me today. Bad combo. Need to get to bed early tonight.

Tuesday Sep 16, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:139.4lbs

4 PM

Trail Run 32:00 [3] 3.1 mi (10:19 / mi) +500ft 8:57 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Up, then down. Decent legs. Warm. Helped to flush out the brain a little.

Monday Sep 15, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138lbs (rest day)

Sunday Sep 14, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.4 weight:138lbs

Big sleep. Feel a little stiff and sore this morning. Yesterday beat me up.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

Black Magic
wu on a 10b/c-ish route, hung draws on Problem Child for B (climbed it mostly draw to draw). Onsight 11b "Kronk"
4 burn on the bottom of Black Magic (going with 12d). I finally did all the moves with new beta using a hidden crimp. I have it all worked out. I just need to be rested with good skin. Solid work day.

Saturday Sep 13, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.6lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

Black Magic
wu on 11a, hung draws on Problem Child and sent it next go (12c)- really good route. Did 2 burns on Black Magic (is 12c/d for me) and did all of the moves but the full span one. Finished the day on Helix (12b hard) and came down at the 3rd last bolt cooked. Solid day. I'm starting to finally feel better since school started. Not running on Thur made a big difference too. Psyched to go back tmw.

Friday Sep 12, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.6 weight:138lbs (rest day)

Thursday Sep 11, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:139.2lbs (rest day)

Wednesday Sep 10, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:140lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:30:00 [3]

wu at cp
went to resort to try Maisch roof (v11)- not in shape for that. Tried to repeat Mini maisch (8/9) but didn't get it. Repeated Kung Fu and low start to Smiley Right (both v7). Nice day up there, but motivation diminishing a little up there. Skin and fitness should be good once fall hits though.

Tuesday Sep 9, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:138.2lbs

4 PM

Trail Run 32:30 [3] 3.0 mi (10:50 / mi) +450ft 9:29 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Easy with B. Didn't feel great. Cool and gray.

Monday Sep 8, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.2lbs

Sunday Sep 7, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:137.6lbs

Hope to get out and do something today. Wedding this morning.

2 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:30:00 [3]

Hot day in LCC after morning wedding. Warmed up at cp and then went to first down to get it on it for the first time since I did it in 09. Worked it out and sent within an hour. Psyched and I'll take it as a decent fitness signal.

Saturday Sep 6, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.2 weight:137.2lbs

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:00:00 [3]

Not a great day at Black Magic.
wu on 11a, multi-hanged a scary 11c. 2 burns on Problem Child (12c) but just feel like crap. Got kinda mad at how bad I've been feeling. Had to call it quits early b/c of other commitments. Maybe go back tmw. TBD.

I think my legs were a little cooked from run #2.

Friday Sep 5, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)

Thursday Sep 4, 2014 #

Note
slept:6.8 weight:137.8lbs

Didn't sleep well last night.

4 PM

Trail Run (LCC) 34:00 [3] 3.15 mi (10:48 / mi) +500ft 9:23 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Out and back with B. Good legs. Comfortably warm temps. Great to get out.

Wednesday Sep 3, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:138lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 54:00 [3]

Pretty good day in the 80+ temps after 9 hours in the work cave. I started at CP and did the circuit w/out really resting, incl the punchy little prob I repeated last week- did that 1st go. Went to the Gate and did the circuit there incl: Pump traverse, crystal pinch, crystal traverse (1st time doing it since a hold broke), and crystal move all first go. Walked up on a 2' rattlesnake walking off the back of the boulder- crazy. Solid little mini mileage day. I might even be able to have a productive season up there this fall. Glad I went up there. 67 points (v0-6).

Tuesday Sep 2, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:137.4lbs (rest day)

Long-ish day at work. Went on a walk. I'll try to get out to the boulders tomorrow.

Monday Sep 1, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:139.4lbs

10 AM

Trail Run 34:00 [3] 3.25 mi (10:28 / mi) +150ft 10:01 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Easy w/ B from Potato Hill. 4 or 5 strides up to 20 sec during last mile. Kinda smokey out this morning, could smell it. Legs felt pretty good.

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