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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Aug 31, 2014:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	12	22:18:00
	Trail Run	5	3:09:15	17.65	(10:43)	28.41	(6:40)	1590
	Bouldering	3	1:54:00
	Road Run	1	28:00	3.05	(9:11)	4.91	(5:42)	100
	Total	21	27:49:15	20.7		33.31		1690
averages - sleep:8.3 weight:139lbs

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Sunday Aug 31, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.8lbs

Big dinner last night brought weight back up. Hopefully, that will help with some energy today.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 2:30:00 [3]

Windshield Wiper 10b, 11d, 12b 2nd go, try dirty/ chossy 12a
2 burns on Medicine Ball (hard 11d)

Solid day, but I think I'm overall not recovered from / adapted to the new work schedule. I sent 3 of the 6 routes I wanted to do today at windshield wiper. But that last 12 I got on was awful. It was good to get away from AF for a day and feel like we went on a mini road trip.

Saturday Aug 30, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.8 weight:137.8lbs

Good sleep but up a little late last night. Feeling a little stiff from last 2 days all work no play. Today is a new day.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

I was kind of a wreck today. We went to hell but weren't that psyched. Tried hell but just didn't have the fight in me. So we went to black magic and did some easy choss route that we thought was orogeny. Then we got on orogeny, which I sent second go. It's either hard 12a or I'm just f'ing cooked. Probably the latter. Better luck tmw. Still cool to go somewhere new though.

Friday Aug 29, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:137lbs

Good sleep after over 10 hours at work yesterday. Stiff this morning. So ready for the weekend.

Thursday Aug 28, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:136.4lbs

Didn't sleep great. Better luck tonight, I guess.

Wednesday Aug 27, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.8lbs

Good, but not enough, sleep. No bevs last night for the first time in a long time.

Bouldering (LCC) 48:00 [3]

Cabbage patch for an hour. Felt better than I did last week. V0-6. Did salad 3x, plus some easier ones twice. Mellow pseudo miles but it felt good to get out and move. My fingertips are pretty raw now but should be fine by the weekend.

Tuesday Aug 26, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.6lbs

4 PM

Trail Run 35:30 [3] 3.2 mi (11:06 / mi) +250ft 10:20 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Sandy BST. Legs were better today than last week. Didn't have to walk at all- no bonks. Good to get out and breathe after 9 hours in the work cave.

Monday Aug 25, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:138.4lbs

Sunday Aug 24, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.7 weight:137.6lbs

9 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]

Another day at Hell
wu on 10a x2, 11d, tried Burning (13b) and came down at 6th bolt but good burn.
Got on Hell (13a/b) and got to the chains. Gave it another go, but I was cooked. This my new power proj though. Psyched to do all the moves.
Cooled down by climbing to the last bolt on Reaching for Razors.

I felt like I didn't climb that much, but the moves I did were hard. Solid day.

Saturday Aug 23, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:136.4lbs

Good sleep. Celebrated the weekend a little too hard though. Feel decent this morning.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 18:00 [3]

Zero energy today.
Warm up on 11b, and then tried Division Bell (12c). Came down at 4th bolt and called it a day. Oh well.

Friday Aug 22, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.6lbs

Woke at 3:30, lay in bed for an hour, and then got up. Just want to bust out this work day.

Thursday Aug 21, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.4 weight:138lbs

In bed by 9 but woke a few times throughout the night. Still adjusting to the new schedule but hanging in there.

Wednesday Aug 20, 2014 #

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 30:00 [3]
slept:7.4 weight:137.2lbs

Mellow solo sesh after work. Hot and humid but just went up there to get outside and move a little. I felt hungry and low energy. I need to get to bed earlier tonight.

Tuesday Aug 19, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.6lbs

Way light today. I'm obviously not eating enough during the day. Bailed on AM run but will try to get out and move after work.

5 PM

Trail Run 37:40 [3] 3.0 mi (12:33 / mi) +150ft 11:59 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Sloooow and easy after 9 hours at work, a lot of them spent sitting. Glad I made myself leave and get out. I was cognitively useless anyway.

Monday Aug 18, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138.6lbs (rest day)

9.5 hours at work driving a desk. Hopefully only a few more days like that.

Sunday Aug 17, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.8 weight:139.8lbs

Good sleep.

9 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

Hell and Division
11d, 9, 11d, try Inferno 2x- not happenin, try Melting once- no power left
11d, 11d, 11b

Saturday Aug 16, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:139.8lbs

Woke up a few times during the night and took a while to fall back asleep.

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

Hell
wu 2x 10a, 11d
Sent "I'll take Black" 12c 2nd go of the day
3 burns on Inferno (13b)- new proj. Linked the first 10 or so moves on the 3rd burn. Psyched to get back on it tmw. Haven't gotten past the 3rd bolt yet.

Friday Aug 15, 2014 #

6 AM

Road Run 28:00 [3] 3.05 mi (9:11 / mi) +100ft 8:54 / mi
slept:7.8 weight:139lbs shoes: GreenMirage3

Felt better than expected. Glad I got out.

Thursday Aug 14, 2014 #

6 AM

Bouldering 36:00 [3]
slept:8.2 weight:140lbs

Traversed on the white wave in BCC. LCC was wet from rain last night. Just wanted to get out and breathe and move before another day of sitting.

Wednesday Aug 13, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:141.4lbs

Ate and drank too much last night. Stayed up too late. Tear it up today!

Tuesday Aug 12, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:139.4lbs

9 AM

Trail Run 31:35 [4] 3.4 mi (9:17 / mi) +260ft 8:40 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Out and back on Ann's trail. I picked up the pace for 30-60sec on the last mile to turn the legs over, hitting low 6mm pace. My drive to run more is gone, which is fine. It was a good jog, during which I thought mostly about climbing (and starting a new job tomorrow).

Monday Aug 11, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138.6lbs (rest day)

Sunday Aug 10, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.4lbs

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Wu on 2x 10a, to second last bolt on 11d
Sent Malvado (13a) 2nd go of the day/ 4th go total. Boom! I just had to clip the second last bolt from above it. That was the key beta for me. So psyched and surprised to get it so fast. Did a beta burn on "I'll take black." (12c) I felt like I could do it, but my skin was done on the 2nd burn. I can get it next weekend for sure as a warm up for Inferno or Burning.

Saturday Aug 9, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:139.6lbs

Up past 10 watching psicobloc.

9 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Cannabis: 11b, 2 burns on teardrop- not that psyched on it
El Diablo: 2 burns on Malvado (13a)- Shoulda coulda woulda sent 2nd go but was super pumped at the second last bolt. Surprised I got that far, I guess, so I didn't really fight like I should have. Wanker. Psyched to get back on it tmw and fire it off.

Friday Aug 8, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.7 weight:139.8lbs

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [5]

Warm up on 10a 2x, 11d
Send El Diablo (5.12d/13a) 4th burn of the day. So psyched. I fell at the second last bolt on my 3rd burn. By the 4th go, I felt psyched to do the moves and just hoped my body would let finish it. Little tweaks to the beta foot beta made all the difference.
Then, we went to Cannabis and tried Teardrop (13a), which felt ok. I didn't get to the chains. Save it for tmw. I tried to cool down on an 11b but shouldn't have. I was cooked but finally made it to the anchors. Solid day. Psyched to send something a little harder at Hell/ El Diablo wall.

Thursday Aug 7, 2014 #

9 AM

Trail Run 11:00 [3] 1.05 mi (10:29 / mi) +100ft 9:36 / mi
slept:9.0 weight:140.4lbs shoes: RogueRacers

My legs didn't want anymore after a mile. I'm more tired from yesterday than I realized. The priority is climbing, so no need to force 3mi out of myself.

Wednesday Aug 6, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:140lbs

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

Warmed up on 5.9(?), 11d twice at Isolation. B sent first go, so we went to Hell to get on El Diablo (5.12d/13a)- 5 burns on it, 3x to the anchors. I one hung it and got my high point on my 3rd go. All of the moves feel fine. It just catches up with you. I hope/ intend to get it next go. Solid power day. I'm psyched to climb more at Hell. That place will get you strong.

Tuesday Aug 5, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140lbs (rest day)

Monday Aug 4, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140.4lbs

8 AM

Trail Run long 1:13:30 [3] 7.0 mi (10:30 / mi) +830ft 9:26 / mi
shoes: RogueRacers

Longest run since last summer. Overall, my body held up well. Gray and rainy, so no MTBrs. My lower back started bugging me a little at 4 miles, but not too bad. It was fun to run on some new sections in the woods.

Sunday Aug 3, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:140lbs

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [3]

Redemption! Warmed up on 10d, French free 11d. Sent Siberia (5.12d) 3rd go on the day after figuring out some better crux beta. So psyched.
Flashed Exile (5.11d) and onsighted a new 10a. Cooled down on License to Thrill (11c). 2 semi-crappy climbing days in a row were worth it for how today went. Psyched!

Saturday Aug 2, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:141.2lbs

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Wu on 10a, 10d, 11d
Gave Siberia (5.12c/d) 3 burns. The bouldery crux felt good on my first burn, and then I totally powered down. Nuts. Plus, it started getting greasy, and there were some other people there who would not stop talking. So, it overall kinda started to suck. I banged my left knee pretty bad falling above the crux on the first go. Another weird day, although I think I can send Siberia the next time there.

Friday Aug 1, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.6 weight:140.4lbs

Really good sleep. Only one beer with dinner.

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