Training Log Archive: chinoIn the 30 days ending Sep 30, 2013:
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| Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | Tu | We | Th | Fr | Sa | Su | Mo | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Monday Sep 30, 2013 #
Note
slept:7.3 weight:137.8lbs (rest day)
Stayed up too late watching season 3 of walking dead. I feel pretty beat up but glad I did some yoga when we got home from climbing or I'd probably feel worse. Psyched to absorb another weekend of climbing.
Mowed the lawn. Maybe the fastest time yet. Other than that, today is a rest day to prep for LCC tomorrow after work. Late work nights W and Th, but then 3 day weekend.
Mowed the lawn. Maybe the fastest time yet. Other than that, today is a rest day to prep for LCC tomorrow after work. Late work nights W and Th, but then 3 day weekend.
Sunday Sep 29, 2013 #
Note
slept:9.2 weight:139.2lbs
Slept ok. Stayed up later than intended. A little stiff this morning but should be ok as long as I warm up slowly.
11 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:00:00 [3]
At Division Wall from 11-3.
Warmed up on 10a, 11a
Got shut down on Division 5.11d but got the beta when I saw some guys on it later in the day.
Redeemed the day by onsighting Nowhere to Go 5.11c and Total Recall 5.11d.
Not a lot of mileage but ended up being a decent day, especially considering how tired I felt overall. The fitness is slowly coming. If we go back next weekend I may get on Abyss 5.12c/d, which I aim to redpoint this season.
Warmed up on 10a, 11a
Got shut down on Division 5.11d but got the beta when I saw some guys on it later in the day.
Redeemed the day by onsighting Nowhere to Go 5.11c and Total Recall 5.11d.
Not a lot of mileage but ended up being a decent day, especially considering how tired I felt overall. The fitness is slowly coming. If we go back next weekend I may get on Abyss 5.12c/d, which I aim to redpoint this season.
Saturday Sep 28, 2013 #
Note
slept:10.0 weight:138.6lbs
Slept like the dead. Solid night of sleep finally. It's been a while. Heading back to Maple after getting snowed and rained out yesterday.
11 AM
Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 1:30:00 [3]
In Maple from 11-5:30.
Onsight/ warm up on 10a, 10a, 10d
Red point 11c 2nd go
Tried freshly squeezed 5.12a but got shut down on th e bouldery start. Crap. I'm supposed to be an ok boulderer.
Red point 11d 2nd go. Fought hard on the red point burn. Super pumped.
Tried Sliding down across a million years 5.12b, which went better than freshly squeezed, but barely. That's my new proj down there. AF on tap for tomorrow.
Onsight/ warm up on 10a, 10a, 10d
Red point 11c 2nd go
Tried freshly squeezed 5.12a but got shut down on th e bouldery start. Crap. I'm supposed to be an ok boulderer.
Red point 11d 2nd go. Fought hard on the red point burn. Super pumped.
Tried Sliding down across a million years 5.12b, which went better than freshly squeezed, but barely. That's my new proj down there. AF on tap for tomorrow.
Friday Sep 27, 2013 #
Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.2lbs
Unplanned rest day after driving to Maple and back. Schizo wet weather. Hiked and ran around there a little looking for dry rock. About 2 miles.
Thursday Sep 26, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:138.6lbs
Up early to run.
6 AM
Road Run 35:06 [3] 4.05 mi (8:40 / mi) +300ft 8:06 / mi
shoes: ProGrid Ride5
Easy but a little faster than Tuesday. Hips bugged me a little but really nice temps, so it was overall enjoyable.
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 30:00 [3]
Warm up at Cabbage Patch, then up to Snowbird to send Dick Van Dyke (V6) 2nd go. Low 40s and snowing up there- perfect conditions for the mini cave. I feel really good, endurance-wise. Psyched to get on routes this weekend.
Wednesday Sep 25, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.8lbs (rest day)
Unplanned rest day after getting rained out in LCC. It was snowing up high. I was driving down the canyon and going to go to the gym but pulled over when I passed 2 dogs running up the road together in the pouring rain. I got them into the van and drove through one of the neighborhoods to see if I could see anyone looking around for lost dogs. I called the police and waited at the park and ride for about an hour, flagging down passing cars to see if they had lost 2 dogs. Finally, one of them one was the owner. Rad. I called and canceled the police call. By then, I was starving and decided to bank a rest day. I may go up tmw to fire off Dick Van Dyke, and then Maple on Fri and Sat. Psyched to climb.
Tuesday Sep 24, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.2lbs
Up early to run before work.
6 AM
Road Run 35:08 [3] 4.0 mi (8:47 / mi) +250ft 8:18 / mi
shoes: Kinvara5C
Slow and easy. I felt stiff and not comfortable from the start but gave myself 10-15 minutes to warm up. Left hip flexor, right SI bugged me. I picked up the pace for up to 30sec several times on the last mile. It felt good on the uphills. OK jog. I wanted to get out in cooler temps and avoid PM stomach issues. The forecast is hot and windy today, so I'm glad to get it done in breezy and 50. I think I'm done with the Kinvaras while my mileage is so low, and my legs aren't as immune to the pounding.
Monday Sep 23, 2013 #
5 PM
Strength Training 2:30 [3]
slept:8.5 weight:139.4lbs
2.5min plank after mowing the lawn. I feel tired today but not sore. Roadside yoga after climbing must have helped yesterday.
Sunday Sep 22, 2013 #
Note
slept:9.3 weight:139.8lbs
Heavy from ziti for dinner, cheerios for dessert, and 3 bevs last night.
I woke still feeling pumped in my chest and forearms. Slept ok. Heading to AF for, hopefully, some relatively easy volume. Bailing on Maple due to wet forecast. Pipeline probably wouldn't be a good area for me today anyway.
I woke still feeling pumped in my chest and forearms. Slept ok. Heading to AF for, hopefully, some relatively easy volume. Bailing on Maple due to wet forecast. Pipeline probably wouldn't be a good area for me today anyway.
10 AM
Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [4]
Climbed from about 10-2:30.
Warm up on 10a, and then got on a too pumpy to warm up on 11b (Baghdad), which I did 2nd go.
Onsight 11a, 2nd go each 11b, 11b (Blurred Vision, Shallow Beginnings).
Numbers-wise, not a great day. But, it ended up being a good mileage day with the lack on onsights, and the routes were fun. The only one I'd done before was the 10a. For the grade, 5.11b felt more like 11c/d in Maple. I actually really had fun in AF, which I've never been that psyched on. We bought an annual pass, and I'm psyched to get back down there.
The rough plan is LCC on Wed, and then Maple on Fri/ Sat. I burned all of my quality "matches" yesterday. Lesson learned there- quality on Sat., mellow mileage on Sunday. I'm enjoying the process of figuring out what works for me climbing-wise. Running training had definitely lost that element.
Warm up on 10a, and then got on a too pumpy to warm up on 11b (Baghdad), which I did 2nd go.
Onsight 11a, 2nd go each 11b, 11b (Blurred Vision, Shallow Beginnings).
Numbers-wise, not a great day. But, it ended up being a good mileage day with the lack on onsights, and the routes were fun. The only one I'd done before was the 10a. For the grade, 5.11b felt more like 11c/d in Maple. I actually really had fun in AF, which I've never been that psyched on. We bought an annual pass, and I'm psyched to get back down there.
The rough plan is LCC on Wed, and then Maple on Fri/ Sat. I burned all of my quality "matches" yesterday. Lesson learned there- quality on Sat., mellow mileage on Sunday. I'm enjoying the process of figuring out what works for me climbing-wise. Running training had definitely lost that element.
Saturday Sep 21, 2013 #
Event: Top of Utah Marathon
10 AM
Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:9.5 weight:138.6lbs
Didn't do the marathon today.
Warmed up at cabbage patch and then 2 or so hours at snowbird boulder. Sent a softer version of Jansens problem, which was right in the sun anyway. Worked dick van dyke and I am Sam, the latter of which I can do but just wasn't psyched enough to commit. Ended up being a work day. Still trying to figure out the best way to space climbing and rest days. Warm today.
~75 moves up to V6 in difficulty for the day.
Warmed up at cabbage patch and then 2 or so hours at snowbird boulder. Sent a softer version of Jansens problem, which was right in the sun anyway. Worked dick van dyke and I am Sam, the latter of which I can do but just wasn't psyched enough to commit. Ended up being a work day. Still trying to figure out the best way to space climbing and rest days. Warm today.
~75 moves up to V6 in difficulty for the day.
Thursday Sep 19, 2013 #
4 PM
Trail Run 34:15 [3] 3.56 mi (9:37 / mi) +400ft 8:42 / mi
slept:8.2 weight:138.4lbs shoes: Kinvara5B
Corner Canyon. Up. Down. Hot. Legs tired. OK jog though. Would've gone to LCC if my skin wasn't wrecked from yesterday. Total rest tmw. Crush in Maple Sat. LCC on Sunday. Psyched.
Wednesday Sep 18, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.1 weight:137.6lbs
Bailed on AM run again because my back felt tweaky. Obviously not committed to morning runs lately. LCC after work today.
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]
Snowbird boulder. Sent handsome blunderstone V6 and worked Matt's cave. Repeated low start to smiley right, which is a good indicator of more power. Fun day. Got a big hole in my middle finger though. No back problems.
Tuesday Sep 17, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.2 weight:138.2lbs
Bailed on morning run. Back feels a little tweaks. 600mg ibu.
4 PM
Trail Run (Corner Canyon) 50:30 [3] 5.05 mi (10:00 / mi) +1000ft 8:25 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3
Mostly easy and uphill. Got lost so had to run thru a bad stomach patch. Decent jog though. Longest run in a while. No back issues.
Monday Sep 16, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.6 weight:139lbs (rest day)
Good sleep, just need more of it. Back is a little tweaks on the left side. Took 1200 mg ibu total yesterday and 600mg when I got up today. It didnt bother me when I was climbing yesterday but a little in the morning.
Mowed the lawn after work. Back feels better but has tweaked a little a few times throughout the day when I've twisted or leaned in a way it didn't like. I didn't take any more ibu after the AM dose.
Mowed the lawn after work. Back feels better but has tweaked a little a few times throughout the day when I've twisted or leaned in a way it didn't like. I didn't take any more ibu after the AM dose.
Sunday Sep 15, 2013 #
9 AM
Sport Climbing (BCC) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:8.5 weight:138.4lbs
Got on Highlander (5.12a) without warming up and blew the onsight goal. Oh well. Gave it another burn but hadn't recovered form the flash pump. I'll get it next time. We went to the pile and climbed close to failure, but I didn't fall or take on any of the routes. 11d, 10d, 12a, 11d, 11d. Going to take at least 2 days off from climbing.
Saturday Sep 14, 2013 #
9 AM
Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:8.2 weight:139.2lbs
4 hours in the canyon today. Cooler, but still a little warm and humid. Finally sent Red Headed Step Child (V6 hard) on the 3rd go of the day. So psyched. Worked Matt's Cave a bit, which is one I've tried off and on for years and has a low percentage long move to the lip. I'll give it a few days next week and see how it goes. In all, a solid day that left me feeling pretty worked. Psyched to get stronger.
Friday Sep 13, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.0 weight:138.4lbs
Slept OK. Can feel the run in my legs. Tired this morning. I may take today completely off to rest to climb tmw and Sunday.
Thursday Sep 12, 2013 #
4 PM
Trail Run (Corner canyon) 36:30 [3] 4.2 mi (8:41 / mi) +300ft 8:08 / mi
slept:8.6 weight:138.4lbs shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly
Up and then down on a bike race loop route. Legs good until sudden low blood sugar at 4mi. It was fun while it lasted. I got some good run drugs for the first time in a while and hit some sub 6mm pace in the last 2m on the descent.
Wednesday Sep 11, 2013 #
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 21:00 [3]
slept:8.2 weight:137.4lbs
Warmed up at cabbage patch, and then to the chutes to get on the proj. Rain, then sun, more rain, sun, etc. No send but progress. Fitness and beta are there, just need the conditions. It gets direct afternoon sun, so my timing couldn't be worse. Good to get up there though. Worked Mormon Gash (V9) a little. I think I'll take the next day or 2 off to absorb what I've been doing. I'm feeling a little wrecked. Being hot at work all day isn't helping.
Tuesday Sep 10, 2013 #
6 AM
Road Run 30:03 [3] 3.62 mi (8:18 / mi) +300ft 7:42 / mi
slept:8.2 weight:138.6lbs shoes: ProGrid Ride5
Stiff hips but was able to pick up the pace the last 1.5mi with some flat and hill sprints. Cooler but still humid. LCC after work today.
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 21:00 [3]
At whitepine chutes for about 90 minutes working red headed step child (V6), which I did in the spring but finished in the "wrong" place. Worked out the beta, did all the moves, and then it started raining. Oh well. Cool to be up there solo. I think I may go back again tomorrow to bust it out.
6 PM
Strength Training 6:00 [3]
50sbpu
KB circuit at 1min, 15lb
KB circuit at 1min, 15lb
Monday Sep 9, 2013 #
Note
slept:8.8 weight:139.4lbs
Long, solid sleep. Felt OK this morning- just some general upper body fatigue.
Sunday Sep 8, 2013 #
Note
slept:7.0 weight:139.4lbs
Up early to climb in maple for the day. Psyched.
9 AM
Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]
Awesome day. Cool temps with periodic light rain.
Onsight 10a, 11a, 11c, 11c
Redpointed an 11d first go that I hadn't been on in 8 years
Redpoint 12a 2nd go
Cooldown onsight super runout 10a, short pumpy 11b
Solid day. The fitness is coming along. Psyched to go back next weekend. Starting to believe I might be able to do a 13a before the end of the year, or at least onsight 12a or harder.
Onsight 10a, 11a, 11c, 11c
Redpointed an 11d first go that I hadn't been on in 8 years
Redpoint 12a 2nd go
Cooldown onsight super runout 10a, short pumpy 11b
Solid day. The fitness is coming along. Psyched to go back next weekend. Starting to believe I might be able to do a 13a before the end of the year, or at least onsight 12a or harder.
Saturday Sep 7, 2013 #
10 AM
Road Run (Porter Rockwell trail) 33:23 [3] 4.05 mi (8:15 / mi) +50ft 8:09 / mi
slept:8.5 weight:139lbs shoes: Kinvara5C
Easy to fast up to 90sec at a time on mini rollers on paved trail in Draper. Legs felt decent. Best run of the week. Hot but cooler than any of the last 3 runs.
Friday Sep 6, 2013 #
5 AM
Road Run 35:45 [3] 4.15 mi (8:37 / mi) +300ft 8:04 / mi
slept:7.0 weight:137.8lbs shoes: ProGrid Ride5
Stiff from last days in LCC but last 2 miles ok. Hot, humid.
Thursday Sep 5, 2013 #
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC- White Pine Chutes) 30:00 [3]
slept:8.0 weight:137.6lbs
Fun day in the sun and heat again but cooler than lower in the canyon. Didn't climb anything harder than V3, but hiked around and scoped out a couple projs for the fall. Rad to just be up there. Did a short, steep 3 I couldn't do at the end of the day when we were there in the spring. Easy day to continue building general fitness and skin base, as well as do stuff I've never done. Psyched to climb everything and just enjoy being in the woods.
Wednesday Sep 4, 2013 #
4 PM
Bouldering (LCC) 21:00 [3]
slept:8.0 weight:137.6lbs
Hiked around to check out some stuff. Ended up cooling down at Cabbage Patch. I'm getting that circuit dialed again despite the 90+ temps.
Tuesday Sep 3, 2013 #
4 PM
Road Run 44:56 [3] 4.8 mi (9:22 / mi) +300ft 8:50 / mi
slept:9.0 weight:139.2lbs shoes: ProGrid Ride5
Another crappy jog in the PM heat. Had to walk/ jog the last .8mi home b/c my stomach was done.
Monday Sep 2, 2013 #
9 AM
Sport Climbing (Rock Canyon) 1:30:00 [3]
slept:8.5 weight:139.2lbs
2mi total of hiking in/out to limestone at Bug Barn Dance Wall. Slabby and engaging.
OS 10c, 10b, 11a, TR 11a to clean it, tried an 11b that was either sandbagged or holds broke off of it. Also had to take once on the wu 10a b/c it was wet in the first 30 feet and more exciting than I was expecting.
Solid day despite low grades but a different type of climbing than I've been doing. Fun to change it up and get a little scared.
OS 10c, 10b, 11a, TR 11a to clean it, tried an 11b that was either sandbagged or holds broke off of it. Also had to take once on the wu 10a b/c it was wet in the first 30 feet and more exciting than I was expecting.
Solid day despite low grades but a different type of climbing than I've been doing. Fun to change it up and get a little scared.
Sunday Sep 1, 2013 #
9 AM
Road Run 55:21 [3] 6.04 mi (9:10 / mi) +300ft 8:45 / mi
slept:9.5 weight:139lbs shoes: Kinvara5B
Slow with Ash on the rd and in the gully. Humid.