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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 31 days ending Oct 31, 2013:

activity # timemileskm+ft
  Sport Climbing7 10:00:00
  Bouldering9 9:00:00
  Trail Run3 1:45:32 9.82(10:45) 15.8(6:41) 1750
  Road Run3 1:28:30 10.18(8:42) 16.38(5:24) 50
  Total22 22:14:02 20.0 32.19 1800
averages - sleep:8.7 weight:138.1lbs

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Thursday Oct 31, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.8lbs

Fat from not being able to stop snacking on chips last night. Pretty sore today.
5 PM

Road Run 27:00 [3] 3.0 mi (9:00 / mi)
shoes: ProGrid Ride5

Barely a jogger.

Wednesday Oct 30, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:139.2lbs

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

Tuesday Oct 29, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:139lbs

Woke at 3 and took 90+ minutes to fall back asleep. Slept poorly.
4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

Super fly was wet. Repeated low start to smiley left at the end of the day, which sort of redeemed an otherwise unproductive session. Crud. Probably go back up tmw.

Monday Oct 28, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:138lbs (rest day)

Sunday Oct 27, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:136lbs

Feeling a little better this morning, less congested. We stayed up past 10, but I slept ok.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Work day on Abyss, refined my beta. Weather permitting, I'll get it done Friday.

Saturday Oct 26, 2013 #

Note
slept:12.5 weight:136.8lbs

Big sleep with help from Ny Quil. Sinuses hurt progressively worse throughout the day. I feel a little better this morning. My head is a little cloudy, but my i don't feel like I've been punched in the face anymore.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

Redpoint Isotoner Moaner 5.12a/b second try of the day
2 good burns on Abyss. Only took twice on second try. I think I can possibly send it tomorrow. Psyched on that route now.

Friday Oct 25, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:137lbs (rest day)

Thursday Oct 24, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:137.6lbs

Up past 10.
4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

TR big baby jesus
2 solid goes on superfly but no send. Sport climbing on the weekends keeps me from getting discouraged by the lack of weekday bouldering sends. Awesome afternoon/ evening up there, though a little warm. Both index fingers have holes in them.

Wednesday Oct 23, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:137.8lbs

4 PM

Trail Run (BST- Sandy) 33:12 [3] 3.13 mi (10:36 / mi) +350ft 9:35 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Slow and easy on a part of the BST I've never been on. Legs felt pretty good. No hip pain. I just get bored these days after about 15 minutes. It felt good to breathe though. Kept it short, so I can still be fresh-ish tomorrow in LCC.

Tuesday Oct 22, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:137.4lbs

Good sleep. Nose still a little stuffy. I feel stiff from not doing anything yeast day. LCC after work today.
4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

Up there from 4-6:45. Did a new V4 arete that ripped a hole in my left index finger, which foiled my attempt on superfly once the sun had finally gone down a bit. Poor use of resources. Doing the squeezy arete moves were good for changing up the stimulus though. I'll go back on Thursday.

Monday Oct 21, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:137.6lbs (rest day)

Slept ok, except for waking at 3 and taking about an hour to fall back asleep. Took a Mucinex before bed. Still a little stuffy with head congestion.

Sunday Oct 20, 2013 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:139.4lbs

Slept pretty well but feel more sick this morning. Head congestion, stuffy nose. Darn.
12 PM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:00:00 [3]

Division Wall
Onsight/ wu Running Woman 11a
3 burns on Isotoner Moaner 5.12a/b - really cool route. Despite a lack of appetite and feeling like I'm getting sick, I fought pretty hard on the last 2 redpoint attempts. Psyched to go back and get it first go hopefully. Better than expected day considering how I felt when I woke this morning.

Saturday Oct 19, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.3 weight:138.4lbs (rest day)

Nose is stuffy this morning. Head a little congested. Mellowed day on tap today.

Domestic errands today. Fighting off a cold for sure. Gonna crush in maple or AF tmw regardless. Pretty lazy day physically.

Friday Oct 18, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:139lbs

Good sleep. A little stiff this morning but not too bad.
12 PM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:00:00 [3]

Another day of living the dream. Warmed up on some 5.9-ish new stuff in the sun at Hardrock west (not in the book). Onsighted Cyberlag (5.11d), and then TR'd it to clean it. After about 40 minutes rest waiting for a group to get off of Beehive, I fired it first try of the day (3rd go ever). 5.12b and it felt easier today. I only did the first "pitch." I tried Route 66 12a at the Membrane. I bailed off of the anchors of another route b/c I didn't want to fall on the second roof, which was a little run out. Psyched to get back on that one though- should be able to send next try. I think it's time to start regularly getting on some harder stuff and start pursuing a 5.13 to do this year, or at least a hard 12. Rest day tmw and maybe Maple on Sunday.

Thursday Oct 17, 2013 #

Note
slept:10.3 weight:136.8lbs

Light from beer and cake for dinner last night. 4 day weekend.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [3]

wu in super cold temps redpoint 11a second go after taking a few times b/c i couldn't feel my fingers. Wow. Cool route though (Riptide)
Went to HardRock to follow the sun. Put up draws on Suicide Blonde 11b for Ash. Felt easy. Repointed Teeanova 11d/12a first try of the day, 3rd try ever.
Gave 1st pitch of Beehive 12b 2 burns and feel psyched to get back on it. I did the opening boulder problem without falling on both tries. Climbed to the 4th bolt on Juggernaut (11b- lame) and came down. Got on it too soon after Beehive burn (less than 5 minutes). Ended the day with an onsight of a newer route not in the book, probably 10b or so. Super fun.
In the canyon from 10:30-5.

Wednesday Oct 16, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:138.2lbs

4 PM

Road Run 31:30 [3] 3.54 mi (8:54 / mi)
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy on the porter Rockwell trail. Felt pretty awful but the temps were perfect. It's amazing how my body now tries so hard to reject running. Threw some strides in there. Good to get the heart rate up a little. Psyched to climb the next 3-4 days.

Tuesday Oct 15, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:138.4lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 30:00 [3]

Good conditions during the warm up, and then it started raining as soon as I got to super fly. I got on it and got the closest to sending I ve ever gotten. And then, the rain really got going. Nuts. I hung out for another 90 minutes waiting for it to dry and gave it another couple goes but no send. Kind of a wash of a day up there. Oh well. Better luck next time. I feel like I'm on the cusp of a breakthrough though.

Monday Oct 14, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:138lbs (rest day)

Good sleep. No bevs yesterday for the first time in a long time.
Mowed lawn. Winterized swamp cooler.

Sunday Oct 13, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138.4lbs

Stayed up til 11 hanging out with friends. I slept in today and don't feel too bad. Mellow day on tap.
11 AM

Trail Run (LCC) 39:20 [3] 3.54 mi (11:07 / mi) +600ft 9:34 / mi
shoes: ProGrid Ride5

Out and back with B on the quarry trail. Up and down, easy pace. Checked out some boulders along the way. Cool and rainy but really nice up there. Glad we went up there instead of jogging on the road. I love living closer to that canyon now. Being up there today got me more psyched on some projects up there.

Saturday Oct 12, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.7 weight:139.8lbs

Heavy from ziti for dinner. Feeling a little stiff this morning.
11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

In the canyon from 11-5. Really good day.
Onsight atheist 11b
Red point 39 11b second go, felt harder than 11b
Red point division 11d second go of the day. Psyched to finally do this one!

I worked abyss 12c/d. After the 3rd bolt, I climbed it draw to draw. I have some work to do on that one. Bouldery top half.

We stopped at License to Thrill 11c on the way down the canyon, and I did that first go. It was only my 2nd time on it. The first time I tried it was 5 years ago at the end f the day.

This wasn't a breakthrough day by any means. But, I feel like I'm slowly starting to see and feel some improvements in endurance and power.

Friday Oct 11, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.8 weight:138.4lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

Didnt send super fly. Top roped big baby Jesus, which was cool. Rad problem, did all the moves in a couple tries without rest.

Thursday Oct 10, 2013 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.6lbs (rest day)

Ate too many potatoes last night. Good sleep.
Cold and rain after work, so I didn't go on a run.

Wednesday Oct 9, 2013 #

4 PM

Trail Run (Corner Canyon) 33:00 [3] 3.15 mi (10:29 / mi) +800ft 8:27 / mi
slept:8.4 weight:138lbs shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy dirt jog after work. Sure.

Tuesday Oct 8, 2013 #

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]
slept:8.4 weight:138lbs

No new sends but best day yet on super fly. I know I can do it now. I had to stop trying it b/c of a bloody flapper. Next time.

Monday Oct 7, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:138.6lbs

Pretty sore this morning. Decent sleep but I'm still tired.

Sunday Oct 6, 2013 #

10 AM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:30:00 [3]
slept:10.2 weight:137.8lbs

No new sends. Tried a bunch of stuff blah blah blah, and then it got hot. We up there from 10-2:30. I think every day of climbing has some value in the scheme of things. I just want to climb some new and harder stuff. It was a gorgeous day up there though.

Saturday Oct 5, 2013 #

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]
slept:10.7 weight:139lbs

We spent all day in AF. Warmed up at Escape Buttress. That place sucks. 10a, 11a, 11b (had to take once on it. Nuts.).
Went to Division wall and tried Division. I finally did all of the moves. I just felt so tired today. Also got on Teeanova and took like 3x. Not a great day, sending-wise. But, I'm psyched to red point Division the next time we go down there. Also, move for move nothing felt hard today. Soldier on. Back at it tmw.

Friday Oct 4, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.4lbs

Up til 1 finishing season 3 of the walking dead. Stupid, but now it can't hurt me anymore. It snowed last night. I think we'll be able to climb later today though.

We went to LCC, but it was drenched. It's going to be an unplanned rest day. We got a lot of home stuff done though. I feel generally tired and like I'm fighting off the flu a little. Psyched to hit it super hard tmw and Sunday. Projects will go down!

Thursday Oct 3, 2013 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:138.2lbs

More sleep but feel wrecked from long day at work yesterday. Bust out another long one today. Psyched for the 3 day weekend.

Wednesday Oct 2, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.2 weight:137.4lbs

Left side of my back still a little stiff but slightly better. To bed after 10 for the third night in a row. Next two days at work are 12+ hours. Get it done.
4 PM

Road Run 30:00 [3] 3.64 mi (8:15 / mi) +50ft 8:08 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy to moderate after work and before PM conferences. Legs felt pretty good. The cooler temps felt awesome. I'll be psyched to get out for more PM runs as it gets cooler. I really like not getting up at 4:30 to run these day.

Tuesday Oct 1, 2013 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.6lbs

Up past 10 again. We only have 6 more episodes to watch, and then we're done. Upper back left side spasmed before bed last night and is still bothering me this morning. Nuts
4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

55 points V0-7
It was warm up there today, so I just did easy to moderate mileage. Repeated crystal pinch first try and Kung fu (V6/7) on the 4th or so go, which I hadn't repeated since I started climbing again. I'm feeling stronger but also more dialed back in to the movement up there on taller stuff. Fun session.

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