Training Log Archive: McCloyIn the 1 days ending Feb 26, 2011:
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Saturday Feb 26, 2011 #
Climbing (Intervarsities) 4:00:00 [3]
The problems were good, but not the best I don't think. For a couple of the routes it was essential that you were tall enough to reach the finish holds. One in specific was either an easy reach up for people who were tall enough, or a dyno up to two pinches.
1 was nice and balancy
2 was a formality (good for freshers)
3 was OK
4 was a good problem, I made a hash of it though
5 was another formality, it could have had a harder variant straight up
6 was OK
7 was OK for tall people, a nightmare for short people
8 was good, but again, a harder variant (no hands) was available
9 was fun, a series of jugs under a roof, then up and over for a couple of reachy holds. I didn't get why people were hell hooking the start, I just monkey bared it!
10, 11 and 12 were there to separate the top guys. Of course I did not get any of these.
10 was a dyno on to crimps. A finger buster for people who weren't used to it. I never caught it meself.
11 was overhang city. I would like to have seen this one demo'd. I doubt anyone got it.
12 was an overhanging dyno start on to a half ball sloper around a pyramid, followed by a series of slopy holds on increasing overhang. Sounds complicated, it was. The dyno was hard to stick, when you did you had little chance to swing yourself up to the next one, once you went static, it was very hard to lock off and reach. I funked it a bit at the end and pulled a figure four to get past the sloper. It worked in practice, but I couldn't get it in the end.
Had a good day out. I'm glad I went down. Some of our frsehers were doing really well, I never heard the outcome.
1 was nice and balancy
2 was a formality (good for freshers)
3 was OK
4 was a good problem, I made a hash of it though
5 was another formality, it could have had a harder variant straight up
6 was OK
7 was OK for tall people, a nightmare for short people
8 was good, but again, a harder variant (no hands) was available
9 was fun, a series of jugs under a roof, then up and over for a couple of reachy holds. I didn't get why people were hell hooking the start, I just monkey bared it!
10, 11 and 12 were there to separate the top guys. Of course I did not get any of these.
10 was a dyno on to crimps. A finger buster for people who weren't used to it. I never caught it meself.
11 was overhang city. I would like to have seen this one demo'd. I doubt anyone got it.
12 was an overhanging dyno start on to a half ball sloper around a pyramid, followed by a series of slopy holds on increasing overhang. Sounds complicated, it was. The dyno was hard to stick, when you did you had little chance to swing yourself up to the next one, once you went static, it was very hard to lock off and reach. I funked it a bit at the end and pulled a figure four to get past the sloper. It worked in practice, but I couldn't get it in the end.
Had a good day out. I'm glad I went down. Some of our frsehers were doing really well, I never heard the outcome.