Training Log Archive: Thraws

Today I took a chance and deliberately drove to a high spot, near the top of the Col de Tourmalet, with a view to getting above the clouds. Despite the unpromising conditions we managed this within about 20 minutes of leaving the car park at Pont de la Gaubie. Climbed steadily to Lac dets Coubous, then entered a beautiful and peaceful little region around Lac de Tracens and followed a tempting path to the Col de Tracens and, ultimately, the Pic de Madamete. It turned cooler here and started to rain and this then kept up all afternoon. At least the walk was another circular one, past the lacs de Madamete and the cabane d'Aygues-Cluses via the GR10, where Grand Raid Pyreneen officials were awaiting competitors. Eventually reentered the murk and was relieved to reach the car at Gaubie. I'd seen pretty much as much of the Pyrenees as I could expect to see in one trip so was pleased enough.

It was another inauspicious start weatherwise, but this was the only chance left to visit the celebrated Cirque de Gavarnie marvelled at from the Breche de Roland. Whether we saw just the bottom or just the top, the trip needed making. Thankfully, as we got near the village after toiling up the gorge behind three huge tourist buses, bits of blue began to appear in the sky. After missing the right path near the start, we followed race markers to the beautiful Plateau de Pailla and marvelled at the setting for the Refuge des Espugettes. The mules used for restocking were outside, and we stopped for coffee, resisting the delicious cooking smells. Aside from the very top, the whole of the cirque was in view. I climbed to the Col de Pimene and then Pimene mountain itself. I'd wondered about the wisdom of this walk when planning it, but it was brilliant, especially the extra view into the neighbouring Cirque d'Estaube. Even more gratifyingly, I could see from the summit that the whole of France (?) to the north was under a blanket of cloud and we alone enjoyed the sunshine. The return was made via the cabane d'Alans in increasingly warm conditions. Another really good day that felt like a bonus.

As the weather continued very overcast I was ready for a rest'n'reading day to prepare my legs for Gavarnie, but Jan spotted a walk from the chalet. So from Cauterets we climbed on the GR10 to the ski centre parking at Cambas, then used the supply road to reach the Refuge d'Ilheou. Had chocolate instead of coffee for a change. The return by the same route and in worsening weather was dull and eventually wet. Would the last two mountain days be spoilt by the conditions?

In Cauterets in the morning the weather had finally changed, though it wasn't raining. With views seemingly impossible we opted to walk from La Raillere up the vallee de Lutour to the Refuge d'Estom. Despite the murk the way was very pleasant and a bit grassier than I'd got used to. Aware that the sun was trying to break through I began to wonder about the possibility of actually emerging above the clouds and, sure enough, at the refuge that was exactly what happened. So, after garbure and coffee we decided to extend the walk with an extra circuit and joined the passage de l'Estibet which climbed quickly above the blanket of white into a region where rocky peaks stuck up into skies of blue. To make things even better, the circular walk was a reminder of the best bits of Scottish wilderness. The sentier difficile beside the Gave d'Estom Soubiran led back to the Lac d'Estom and return was made by same route through the same murk.

Needed an easier day again so opted for lakes circuit I'd earmarked for a wet one. Even though the sun was shining. From Pont d'Espagne went up the right hand side of the river for a change to Pont du Cayan, then climbed steeply up beside the waterfall spotted on day 1. Paused at the lovely Lac de l'Embarrat and ate some food, then climbed the zigzags to the Lac du Portet. There was something a little bit Welsh about the descent past Lac Nere, where the outsize Pic de Cambales dominated on the right. As we dropped to the Wallon refuge we reentered familiar country, and after a drink we wandered back down the Marcadau valley for the last time. The cloud encountered lower down was a sign of things to come.