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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 30 days ending Nov 30, 2023:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Trad Climbing	5	15:15:00
	Sport Climbing	6	10:40:00
	Trail Run	5	5:18:31	28.2	(11:18)	45.38	(7:01)	5431
	Road Run	12	5:12:13	34.24	(9:07)	55.1	(5:40)	928
	Bouldering	8	4:41:00
	Yoga/ Stretching	31	4:31:00
	Cycling- Road	1	2:10:04	30.07	(13.9/h)	48.39	(22.3/h)	2011
	Hiking	4	2:04:29	4.02	(30:58)	6.47	(19:15)	2809
	Cycling-Trainer	3	1:47:17	31.03	(17.4/h)	49.94	(27.9/h)	1443
	Strength Training	18	45:15
	Hangboard	4	12:27
	Total	78	52:37:16	127.56		205.29		12623
	[1-5]	57	50:03:46
averages - sleep:7.9 weight:136.5lbs

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Thursday Nov 30, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 8:00 [0]
slept:6.7 weight:137.2lbs

No bevs after PM shift. Body pretty good out of bed. Psoas stretch and hip side swings seem to be helping. No burrito for dinner = lower weight.
Incl 2min psoas stretch before leaving for the gym.

Goal today at work- less sitting, more stretching

6 AM

Bouldering 45:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Kilterboard ~25 degrees for first 3 sets, then 30 degrees
---5 on the minute
Set 1 v3-v4/ 2min rest
Set 2 v3 to v4/ 3:45min rest
Set 3 v3 to v5/ 4min rest
Set 4 v3-4/2 min rest
Tried two v6s- no send
CD v4
50sec hang leg lifts

Really fun session. Body felt good. Dig the Kilterboard more than the Grasshopper board. Nice job going to the gym yesterday to plan this AM's sesh. Psyche cup is refilled. Booyah.

Road Run 22:35 [3] 2.51 mi (9:00 / mi) +38ft 8:52 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Gym wu jog. Legs tired but body decent. Hip flexors a little awake but seem like they're getting better. End w/ skipping and karaoke drill.

Wednesday Nov 29, 2023 #

5 AM

Road Run 47:22 [3] 5.16 mi (9:11 / mi) +221ft 8:49 / mi
ahr:120 max:141 shoes: Ride 15 - Gold

Cold hood jog. Hipo flexors didn't get mad until last .75mi or so. End w/ 2x 30/30, drills. Had some moments of enjoying it. Idk, man. Hips really stiff now that I'm typing this at work at 8AM. Hmmm.

6 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 15:00 [1]
slept:7.2 weight:139.2lbs

1 7.5 er last night. Burrito + treats. OK w/ weight gain right now w/ being kinda goal-less.

Post run- 4min core, psoas release (laying down, knees against wall, alt leg out to side), usual run stretches.

Tuesday Nov 28, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 10:00 [0]
slept:7.0 weight:138.2lbs

Wtf weight? 1 7er last night. Lights out at 8:10 but woke at 2 for a while. Hips stiff out of bed but got better.

6 AM

Bouldering 16:00 [3]
shoes: Evolv Rave

16min arc
3:30 rest before HB

Hangboard 6:30 [3]

Tension HB
30mm 7x 7:3/ 3min rest
25mm 7:3 x3, 30mm 7:3x 4 - hard set/ 3min rest - tension board too narrow space bt holds
Switch to beastmaker 2000
30mm 7:3 x 7 - felt better w/ wider gap bt holds/ 3min rest
30/15 alt 7:3x 4; 30mm 7:3 x4/ 3min rest
30/15 alt 7:3 x 4, 30mm 7:3 x6

Last set felt solid. Had to leave for work, which is prob a good thing. Keep easing into the workouts- no injuries!

Strength Training 1:00 [3]

20lb med ball woodchop x30
30lb med ball squat x15

Road Run warm up/down 15:55 [3] 1.74 mi (9:09 / mi) +26ft 9:01 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Gym wu jog. Hips kinda stiff but fine. Adductors woke up a little bit ~10min in but not as bad as usual. Felt so good to jog- wow. When I woke in the middle of the night, I thought (again) about how I have to run to stay sane. I can't/ don't want to just climb a lot. I can do both, of course. Just don't get shackled to a run training plan. I still want to climb 5.11-12 trad!

Monday Nov 27, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 10:00 [1]
slept:7.4 weight:137.6lbs

Decent sleep. 1 7.5er last night, done w/ it by 6:30. Hip flexors been feeling better out of bed. QL kind stiff this AM. Body just generally tired- no surprise. 23F this AM. Def not bummed to not be training for rd running. I guess winter is here. Sh*t.

Sunday Nov 26, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 7:00 [0]
slept:9.5 weight:137.6lbs

Big sleep. 1/2 whiskey, 1 7er last night. Burrito for dinner. No concern for weight right now.

11 AM

Sport Climbing 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

TR 10b+11a
Lead 11c
One hang #1 - pumped out layback 4’ from top- rt side so weak thumb down
15’ up #6 shut down!
Lead - one hang 12a getting frustrated, rest/drink/eat. Lots of Gastons on slopers
1/2 way up 6, finish on 5- stuff just hurts. Don’t give up. Embrace the process
Lead 12a vert to steep first go
Lead 11d first go on main wall
Lead 12a vert 1st go
Lead 11a 1st go main wall

Think I can only train on gym cracks once per week. Encouraged by 11/12 sends after crack beat down though. I can get good at climbing hard cracks.

2 PM

Strength Training warm up/down 1:00 [3]

20lb med ball: 30 wood chops, 20 squats

4 PM

Strength Training 5:00 [3]

72 push ups in 2min
3min core

Saturday Nov 25, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 10:00 [0]
slept:9.2 weight:137lbs

No bevs last night, big sleep. Body felt beat up out of bed but loosened up pretty well w/ the AM yoga routine. Some sun but cold out. Climbing rest day today. Want to send cracks #1 and 6 at Sandy Mo tmw.

11 AM

Trail Run 54:13 [3] 4.04 mi (13:25 / mi) +1223ft 10:26 / mi
ahr:120 max:144 shoes: Exodus Ultra 2

Jog/ hike up to Pt 6256 from Benchmark TH to get on top of that hill I see every day from the kitchen window. Sunny, cold but not bad. Legs and head good. Mellow mindset and effort. Fun to not have to be out for a certain amt of time/ distance. One 20hs at the end.

1 PM

Strength Training 45 [1]

30 body weight squats

Friday Nov 24, 2023 #

Trad Climbing (Gym) 2:15:00 [4]
shoes: Evolv Rave

Crack day Sandy Mo
#2 + #3 a each is 5.9
Dog to 4th on 13-
2/3 up #6 5.11- wide fists + #5 10- first go
#4 5.11- first go- best size for me here?
1/3 up #6- too pumped, painful
#7 5.9 chimney 1st go- nice job

Hard but fun session. I have a lot of work to do to improve. Really psyched though.

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 7:00 [0]
slept:9.5 weight:136.8lbs

Big sleep til 7:45. Woke to it snowing sideways, 18F windchill. Nice. Two 7.5ers and .5 Bailey's last night bc Idk.

We ate a lot last night but none of it was high sugar. Mostly veg and protein. Body mostly okay. Hips the normal stiff.

3 PM

Strength Training warm up/down 5:30 [1]

51 push ups in 68sec
90sec ab wheel
50 push ups in 77sec
90sec ab wheel

Thursday Nov 23, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 14:00 [0]
slept:9.4 weight:136.4lbs

1 7er last night. Low back kinda stuff from the ride yesterday. Usual AM yoga + 10min YWA video, which felt good.

10 AM

Trail Run 1:17:20 [3] 6.04 mi (12:48 / mi) +1531ft 10:20 / mi
ahr:127 max:157 shoes: Ride 15 Yellow/Blue

From rd parking at base of Bowman Fk/ Terraces Rd- Terraces to Elbow Fk-down rd- 4x 20-30sec hs/ bounding on bottom steep part of rd to Terraces Trail, then back up rd to meet up with B. Started walking w/ her at 6mi.

Nice hike/ jog w/ some sick spots on the trail. Cool to get up there though. Been forever since I went that direction on Terraces. Legs, head, and body decent. Hamstrings tight from yesterday.

12 PM

Strength Training 2:30 [0]

20lb KB woodchop x30
90sec plank
30sec back ext

Wednesday Nov 22, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 5:00 [0]
slept:9.0 weight:136.4lbs

Took a while to get out of bed. Low mo. One 7er last night, which was unnecessary. 5 days off work. Do rad stuff.

9 AM

Strength Training 1:00 [3]

60 push ups

11 AM

Cycling- Road 2:10:04 [4] 30.07 mi (13.9 mph) +2011ft
ahr:125 max:156 shoes: Specialized Pathfinder 2

Rode to new P-line connector via W Grandeur trail til I hit mud, then made my back to the rd w/ a few minutes of hiking, which brought AP way down. Rode south on Wasatch/ Danish to LCC w/ a mile or so on the trail west of the mouth of the canyon. Rd up LCC looked slick so head back home. Upper body was a little uncomfortable the last 20-30min and left IT band woke up a few times. But, overall, legs and body did well.

Drank 16oz water, 20oz Skratch, Skratch chews, Skratch bar. Nice job taking in calories throughout in cold temps. 2 hours prob a bit long but kept it together and didn't get killed. Picked up effort on end of the climbs but easy effort overall.

Tuesday Nov 21, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [0]
slept:7.1 weight:137.8lbs

No bevs last night. Not sure why weight is so high. Oh well. Woke at 4. Felt awake, psyched for the day. Nice. Body good out of bed.

6 AM

Road Run 22:23 [3] 2.54 mi (8:49 / mi) +28ft 8:43 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Nice wu jog w/ some strides/ drills at the end. Cold, but nice out. 30 or so. Hip flexors barely awake but overall the best they've been in a while. Kinda feels like my body is coming back around for running. Think I'm feeling overall better w/ drinking so much less the past couple weeks.

Bouldering 40:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Sandy Mo
On the run, decided not to ARC. Ended up being a fun session. Worked and sent a v5 on the 45, which was cool- had a kneebar! Did a decent job of resting bt burns on the v5. I also climbed up to the first bolt twice (from a sit start) on the 13- crack, then down climbed, which was super fun and got me psyched to get on it. Nice job being flexible w/ the gym sesh, ended up being really fun and inspiring.

Ended w/ 20lb med ball: 25 squats, woodchop x30

4 PM

Sport Climbing 1:00:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Mill Mo
Lead 11a, 11a
One hang 12a on lead that I didn't send last time
Lead 11c/d to 2nd last bolt in TR area- thin. Yikes. Don't lead routes over there anymore.

Shakeout sesh was the goal.

Road Run warm up/down 7:38 [3] 0.68 mi (11:14 / mi) +8ft 11:06 / mi

Gallo-jog to the gym.

Monday Nov 20, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [0]
slept:8.2 weight:136.2lbs

1 7er last night. Decent sleep, don't think I woke at all during the night. Body feels pretty beat up, but good. Head is good. 2 day work week!

Sunday Nov 19, 2023 #

7 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 5:00 [0]
slept:8.0 weight:135.6lbs

A 7 and 7.5er last night just bc. Watched Barbie and then played guitar for a while. Head and body not too bad out of bed somehow. Raining. Run plus gym today. Hope to send thin hands with the new thinner crack gloves.

9 AM

Trail Run 1:18:08 [3] 7.4 mi (10:34 / mi) +1083ft 9:16 / mi
ahr:131 max:166 shoes: Exodus Ultra 2

Out and back from W Grandeur TH to P-line and back in the low 40s and rain. Legs and head fine though hip flexors woke up at ~5k. Stopped to stretch twice, which helped a little. 3x 15 sec hs/bound at the end. Decent jog to brain dump. Psyched to climb harder trad. Want to run, ride, and BC ski. No mo to race, which is fine, gives me flexibility to do whatever I want each day.

2 PM

Sport Climbing 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

TR 10b+11a
TR 10c + 2/3 greasy 12a
High point thin hands- weak on rt arm with thumbs down
Hand crack practicing thumbs down rt, thumbs up left
Fall at last bolt lead 12b steep!
Send 12a lead from yesterday first go off today- had to fight at the top. Dang.
2 hang 12a lead
Hang on ring locks for a few seconds- yes!

5 PM

Strength Training 1:20 [3]

70 push ups

Saturday Nov 18, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 5:00 [0]
slept:9.4 weight:135.4lbs

1 7.5er last night, which I think really detracts from my sleep quality. Feel ok, just not as rad as I’d hoped after rest day yesterday.

12 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym) 2:30:00 [4]

TR 10b+11b
Hand crack- hurts today
2 burns on thin hands- fell at top/ feet still in overhang both burns
One hang 12a lead
Flash 12a lead
Fall 2/3 up 2 nd go 12a so pumped

Fun one. Super busy at first then not bad. Cooled down with some bouldering up to v2.

Friday Nov 17, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [0]
slept:7.5 weight:135.6lbs

No bevs last night. Thought about a beer after the gym but wanted to recover/ sleep well- nice job. Maybe run or ride after work.

Glad to be free of the "gotta run before work" mindset (for now). Trying hard on the steep wall and cracks at the gym is sounding fun/ motivating. So, that's cool.

Thursday Nov 16, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 5:00 [0]
slept:6.5 weight:135.6lbs

No bevs after PM shift last night. Tired but feel better than I did the past 2 mornings.

6 AM

Bouldering 40:00 [4]

Sandy Mo Grasshopper Board
Kind of a bust of gym sesh. Did a couple big moves. Still figuring out how to best use the wall system. The benefit of low volume sessions like this is that I can go in the PM or be less fatigued for next session. Hips were so tight at first. Not sure if AMs are best times for me to do limit bouldering.

Road Run 13:45 [3] 1.57 mi (8:45 / mi) +28ft 8:37 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

wu jog in kinda hard rain. Legs actually decently mobile, evidenced by faster avg pace. Decent jog with some strides at the end.

4 PM

Strength Training 3:00 [3]

62 push ups
Crunch series

6 PM

Sport Climbing (Gym ) 1:00:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Mill Mo
Lead 10b, 11b, 11d, 11c steep; first 5 bolts of a 12b to TR10d.

Fun, quick session. Didn’t rest much. Feel like I should be able to consistently climb 12s in the gym again soon.

Wednesday Nov 15, 2023 #

Note
slept:0.35

Nap in the van bt shifts- good one.

5 AM

Cycling-Trainer 45:59 [3] 14.08 mi (18.4 mph) +548ft

Chill spin w/ a few harder efforts sprinkled in. Went by pretty fast, read a little bit. No pain on the ride. Digging the trainer AM option.

6 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 6:00 [1]
slept:6.4 weight:136.4lbs

Poor sleep. No bevs last night. Had to go to the bathroom before I had the chance to do much of the AM series. Don't cold soak quinoa anymore. :)

Psoas still tight.

Post-ride: stretch, 20lb KB woodchop x40, 25 bodyweight squats. Couldn't do crunches or sit ups bc psoas/ hip flexors were so tight- jeez. Paying for the run...

Tuesday Nov 14, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [0]
slept:7.2 weight:136.4lbs

No bevs last night, lights out before 9. Was sleeping hard when alarm went off. Think I'm tired...Body good out of bed.

Post- ARC/ HB - 100sec core

6 AM

Road Run 22:11 [3] 2.4 mi (9:15 / mi) +41ft 9:06 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Gym warm up jog. Felt good. Hip flexors better. It's just my psoas that's still tight. Eased into the jog nicely, ran past city hall and theater. Next time- wear briefs, maybe retire the S7 pants- kept coming undone. Psyched that 2+ miles felt good/ not bad. I predict more running as weather gets worse.

Bouldering (Gym) 28:00 [3]

Sandy Mo
28min ARC. Original plan was 20-25min. Still digging it for Tues AMs.

Hangboard 2:20 [3]

2 sets
7:3 x7 Lg edge, 3min rest, 7:3 x7 (1st 4 reps alt rt hand lg edge/ left hand small edge)

HB is feeling good. Want to make more time to do more sets, sprinkle in use of small edge.

4 PM

Trail Run 1:13:07 [4] 7.7 mi (9:30 / mi) +1104ft 8:22 / mi
ahr:134 max:160 shoes: Nike Pegasus 39

Parked at W Grandeur TH and ran the new connector trail-P line-down RSnake-rd back. Where did that come from?

Super nice out after work. Head and legs felt decent. Original plan was to do an out and back, just get to where the new trail meets the P line. Once I got to P line, figured I might as well loop it rather than waiting til another day to loop it. Felt pretty strong on the climb, but paced it to keep hr ~140 for most of it, went hard near the top. Psoas and hip flexors were super pissed by the time I hit the rd. I just need to get rid of the Pegasus.

Cool run, nice evening. It's been a long time since I impulsively changed run plan, went longer. Nice to not have to worry about it sabotaging the next day's workout. Also glad to catch a glimpse of some trail run psyched coming back. Don't force it.

Monday Nov 13, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 8:00 [0]
slept:7.0 weight:135lbs (rest day)

Didn’t sleep well, woke up a few times. One 7er last night. Feel pretty wrecked this AM in head and body.

Sunday Nov 12, 2023 #

7 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 7:00 [0]
slept:9.0 weight:135.4lbs

One 7er last night. Back to LCC!

10 AM

Hiking 21:37 [3] 0.84 mi (25:44 / mi) +251ft 20:03 / mi
shoes: Scarpa Gecko

To/ from Crescent Crack.

Trad Climbing 3:00:00 [3]
shoes: Evolv Rave

P1 and 2 of Crescent Crack into CC Direct Var but climbed onto the slab too early. Typical LCC multi-pitch questineering, but we know where to go if we head up there again. The P2 OW was super fun. Most of the effort today was from rope work. Climbed the OW boulder on the hike out, which was rad. After 23 years, today was the day I felt psyched to do it. Fun, adventure-y day. I want to get in more actual routes though, instead of doing so much route-finding. Oh well. Trad in LCC just takes a long time.

4 PM

Strength Training 3:40 [3]

60 push ups in a minute, 30 sit ups in a minute, 1min crunch series, 30 body weight squats

Saturday Nov 11, 2023 #

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [0]
slept:9.5 weight:135.6lbs

1 6.8er last night, which was nice but it felt like it affected my sleep. Felt fine, but not rad out of bed. Hip flexors seem less angry though.

10 AM

Hiking 35:08 [3] 0.89 mi (39:29 / mi) +1269ft 16:48 / mi
shoes: Scarpa Gecko

LCC in/ out Green A Gully.

Trad Climbing (LCC) 3:00:00 [4]

Started the day w/ bailing on Green A. Once the sun got on it, it felt slick, thin, sketchy. Hiked up to Wheels of Fire but a party was on it. Hiked back down to OS After the Fall 5.9, which had some unique moves in the wide section. Went back up to OS Wheels of Fire 5.9+. Cool route overall. Called it a day after that bc it was about 4pm. Awesome day up there, just not many pitches. Both routes were 100'+ though. Whatev.

Felt kinda low energy today. Not surprising w/ mega effort last Sunday, then some decent gym days this week. Don't overthink it. I've done all of the original objectives for all the sports this year. Now, it's just about getting better at climbing on granite, having fun. My brain operates differently w/out running as much. Am I getting out of shape, not eating enough/ the right things, just a different kind of fatigue? Plus work has been consistently busy. Overall, all is fine.

6 PM

Strength Training 30 [3]

30 push ups

Friday Nov 10, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 6:00 [0]
slept:6.8 weight:135.8lbs

No bevs last night. Woke at 4 w/ no alarm. Feel decent. Hip flexors same as usual.

5 AM

Cycling-Trainer 48:00 [3] 13.5 mi (16.9 mph) +751ft

20oz water
Not terrible trainer ride. Felt decent. Sure.

6 AM

Strength Training warm up/down 4:00 [1]

quick Mad Fit core- good one

Thursday Nov 9, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 8:00 [1]
slept:7.1 weight:135.2lbs

No bevs again- nice job! Decent sleep, didn't wake at all before my alarm. Can tell I'm staying better hydrated this week w/out bevs.

6 AM

Bouldering 42:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Sandy Mo
In the bouldering area for ~25min and tried up to v5. Man, the problems were dumb. Went to the training area and got on the Grasshopper Board- training psyche is not at 100%! Yes! Flashed a 2 and two 3s, did v4 2d go. Psyched to start implementing some power training. Ended w/ hanging leglifts x15.

Road Run 13:39 [3] 1.51 mi (9:02 / mi) +27ft 8:53 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

wu jog at the mall. Hip flexors better but front of knees kinda buggy first few minutes. Jeez. Peed today- nice job. Picked up pace last couple min, which felt good. Mobility was decent/ no pain by that point.

7 PM

Cycling-Trainer 13:18 [2] 3.45 mi (15.6 mph) +144ft

Easy spin after setting up the trainer for tmw AM.

Wednesday Nov 8, 2023 #

5 AM

Road Run 47:04 [3] 5.01 mi (9:24 / mi) +170ft 9:06 / mi
ahr:120 max:137 shoes: Ride 15 - Gold

Slow and easy in mid-30s temps, which felt nice. Hip flexors sucked for most of the run. Oh well. Caught myself thinking about getting new skis this winter. I don't missing racing or run training AT ALL right now, which is actually a relief. I'll probably set up the bike trainer soon. Mostly psyched on LCC trad anyway. Excited/ curious about new ways to get in shape. Just need to ID and fix the imbalances/ weakness that are causing this hip flexor/ adductor nonsense.

6 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 10:00 [1]
slept:7.1 weight:136.4lbs

No bevs last night- nice job.
Hips felt good on a walk last night but were the usual angry/ stiff/ weak out of bed. Darn.

Strength Training warm up/down 5:00 [2]

Post run:
1min plank, 30sec back ext, 1min crunches +15lb db, 20lb KB woodchop x40, 30 bodyweight squats

5 PM

Strength Training 2:00 [2]

56 push ups in a minute
~30sec crunches +15lb db (made the psoas mad), 10 sit ups

Tuesday Nov 7, 2023 #

4 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 9:00 [1]
slept:7.1 weight:137.6lbs

No bevs last night bc I just wanted to sleep well. Head decent, body not bad out of bed. Not sure why my weight is so high. Whatever. Lights out at 8:40-ish after daily reading about Chemistry- digging it.

5 AM

Road Run 15:05 [3] 1.68 mi (8:59 / mi) +29ft 8:50 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Gym wu jog in the cool temps and light rain. Adductors/ hip flexors stuff but didn't hurt. Got progressively better. Past 3 nights been doing the psoas release of laying chest down on the floor, legs bent, knees/ tops of feet against the wall, bring one knee up/ away form the wall for 5-10 sec w/ back bend. Seems to be slowly helping. Nice mellow jog. Def dehydrated bc was first pre-gym jog during which I didn't have to pee. Drink more water.

6 AM

Bouldering 30:00 [3]
shoes: Evolv Rave

30min ARC
Time went by fast. Did more up and down, not just traversing. Stupid foot slip at 23min that took me off the wall for ~10sec. Ding dong. Spent more time in the overhang. Can't believe how much I'm digging ARCing. It's def helping though. I was able to hang out forever on P2 of Hangman on Sat. while I was fussing over gear. Anyway, ARCing is turning out to be good drugs- nice.

Hangboard 2:20 [3]

2x (7:3 x7 on Lg edge)/ 3min bt sets
Didn't think I'd be able to hang on but actually felt the easiest it's felt. Only had time to do 2 sets.

Strength Training 1:40 [1]

plank during rest bt HB sets

Monday Nov 6, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 15:00 [0]
slept:7.0 weight:136.4lbs

1 7er last night, done w/ it by 6:30. Body feels beat up today. The dips didn't help. Head is good though- great weekend in LCC.

7 PM

Yoga/ Stretching 6:00 [1]

Psoas release stuff
2min plank

Sunday Nov 5, 2023 #

7 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 9:00 [0]
slept:9.2 weight:135.8lbs

Broken sleep after a 6.8 and 7er last night. Ding dong. Feel sorta beat up today but not terrible.

10 AM

Hiking 34:27 [3] 1.31 mi (26:18 / mi) +365ft 20:48 / mi
shoes: Scarpa Gecko

To/ from Bongeater

Trad Climbing 2:00:00 [5]
shoes: Evolv Rave

1 hang Bongeater- best go ever on it, TR or lead
~70min rest while a party of 4 TR'd it
SEND BONGEATER!!!!! 5.10d trad.

Cool, overcast day, mid 50s. No wind.

After the first burn, I knew I could do it. Climbed a little faster, placed 1-3 fewer pieces of gear. I was able to hang all the gear in order on my harness, leave stoppers and 00 behind. Can't believe I actually sent it. It was just one of those routes I never saw myself putting the effort into. It was a fight to get into the flare at the top. But, I know I can climb a lot harder. Still sinking in. So freakin psyched. Yes!

2 PM

Sport Climbing 40:00 [4]
shoes: Evolv Rave

Mill Mo gym cd
Burn on thin hands crack- fell with feet below the lip of the overhang
TR 12a+10b
15 dips after

Saturday Nov 4, 2023 #

8 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 8:00 [3]

1 7er and .4wine last night
Legs kinda tired but fine. Body ok. Def tell a diff in sleep quality after bevs.

10 AM

Trad Climbing 5:00:00 [4]
shoes: Evolv Rave

TR Plumb Line after B led it! TR Zot 12a slab but had to French free low crux at first 2 bolts- cool moves. OS both pitches of Hangman(5.9, 10a). Really cool jams and layback crack. Stopped at Comfort Zone on hike out but bailed bc moves before first bolt were thin- go back with the stick clip.

Pretty rad day. Freakin hot though. Still not getting a lot of pitches bc of how questy some of the routes and approaches are. Having fun getting off the ground though, semi-adventuring. Hope to send Bongeater tmw. Andele!

Hiking 33:17 [3] 0.98 mi (33:58 / mi) +924ft 17:57 / mi
shoes: Scarpa Gecko

To/ from Plum Line, etc.

5 PM

Strength Training 2:05 [2]
slept:10.1 weight:136lbs

65 push ups
65sec olamk

Hangboard 1:17 [3]

7:3 lg edge x7 after we got home

Friday Nov 3, 2023 #

5 AM

Yoga/ Stretching 7:00 [1]
slept:7.4 weight:137.2lbs

No bevs last night after PM fam thing- got home at 8. Weight up from dinner and cake, I guess. Who cares? Realizing I'm going nuts w/out running but I need the physical break.

Bc I didn't run this AM, I got to: do some yoga w/ the cat, spend time downstairs and think about some work we can do down there, generally have a mellow AM before work.

Strength Training 2:15 [2]

60 push ups
75sec plank (I think)

5 PM

Trail Run 35:43 [3] 3.02 mi (11:50 / mi) +490ft 10:15 / mi
ahr:126 max:147 shoes: Exodus Ultra 2

I'm failing at taking a break from running. Easy w/ B up Rsnake trail to p-line, down rsnak gulch with some back and forth to go back to B plus some 20-30sec uphill strides at the end. Hip flexors/ adductors felt wonky but better than they on the rd in the AM. Fun to get out. Wore the hrm to make I kept it aerobic. Part of me thinks I should reg for a 100 miler. Wtf? Psyched to climb this weekend in LCC though.

How much of my losing my mind at work is related to running less?

Thursday Nov 2, 2023 #

5 AM

Road Run 39:41 [3] 4.3 mi (9:14 / mi) +143ft 8:57 / mi
shoes: Ride 15 - Gold

Fine enough jog but hip flexors not mobile- just generally uncomfortable. I need to take a break to give myself a chance to 1) heal in body and psyche, 2) explore other things. I've been telling myself for the past month that I'm not going to get back in the habit of cold, dark AM runs and look where I am...I feel good about taking a break from running for a minute. Set up the trainer, do some hiking, focus on climbing. Stop forcing running.

Plan to hit Lehi Mo after work and before PM fam stuff for T's b-day. Stay fed and hydrated throughout the day.

6 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 18:00 [1]
slept:6.7 weight:136.2lbs

10min AM wu
post run: stretch, 3min core + 20lb KB woodchop x30

No bevs last night after PM shift but more than usual choc chips- ugh.

4 PM

Bouldering 40:00 [4]
shoes: Anasazi Arrowhead pt2

Lehi Mo
Another rushed session bc of PM fam plans. Dehydrated after 2.5 hour work meeting at the end of the day that ran 30min past contract time. Grr. Flashed Two v5s, two 4s. Tried a couple 6s and 7s. The ratings were all over the place, and there just generally weren’t many fun problems. Attitude was good though.

Wednesday Nov 1, 2023 #

5 AM

Road Run 44:55 [3] 5.14 mi (8:44 / mi) +170ft 8:28 / mi
shoes: Brooks Glycerin 20 - Lime

Easy hood jog. Mentally, I think I need to keep running. I have inspiration for racing right now. But, it felt good run. I just need to work out this hip flexor/ adductor issue. Low 30s w/ a breeze- dressed well for it. Kinda struggling with work and life right now, feel in a rut. Embrace the opp to try new things, make changes.

6 AM

Yoga/ Stretching warm up/down 23:00 [1]

Looked at my watch during the AM routine and saw that I spent 15min doing all the things.
Post run-thorough stretch+ warrior 1; 2min plank, 1min back ext +supermans

Release the adductors!

4 PM

Strength Training 3:00 [3]

2min plank, 1min back ext +supermans

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