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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 30 days ending Jun 30, 2016:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	11	27:12:00
	Hiking	7	6:18:00	17.5		28.16		3100
	Trail Run	5	5:24:48	26.49	(12:16)	42.63	(7:37)	5762
	Bouldering	4	4:45:00
	Road Run	3	1:38:00	11.29	(8:41)	18.17	(5:24)	327
	Strength Training	3	21:00
	Yoga/ Stretching	2	19:00
	Dog Jog	1	15:00	0.7	(21:25)	1.13	(13:19)
	Hangboard	1	6:00
	Total	33	46:18:48	55.98		90.09		9189
averages - sleep:8.4 weight:138.4lbs

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Thursday Jun 30, 2016 #

Yoga/ Stretching 10:00 [1]

Goal was 20min of stretching throughout the day, 10 is more than zero. Gotta start somewhere.

7 AM

Trail Run (Red Pine Lake) 1:25:36 [3] 6.6 mi (12:58 / mi) +2051ft 10:01 / mi
slept:7.5 weight:138lbs shoes: Pegasus

Got up at 5:30 with B, on the trail before 7. To the lake in 3.27mi 49:56. Touching the water stops the clock. Hung out for about 5min, and then mellow descent to try to save the legs for possible return to Chadbourne on Sat. I felt better than I did on this run last summer and got to the lake >5min faster w/out trying to push it. Trying and failing to find climbing partners this week is motivating me to run more during the week. We'll see.

Wednesday Jun 29, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:137.4lbs (rest day)

Wrecked this morning.

5 PM

Yoga/ Stretching 9:00 [3]

Throughout the day I've done 3 quick sessions of stretching + core (TRX plank, TRX pikes, saws) for some active recovery.

Dog Jog 15:00 [3] 0.7 mi (21:25 / mi)
shoes: Pegasus

At the park with C. I get in some good strides before I throw the ball. I sprint til she catches up with me, which takes longer after each throw. Fun active recovery.

Tuesday Jun 28, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:137.4lbs

Note
slept:2.0

Crashed on the couch from ~2:30-4:45. I hope I can fall asleep tonight. Needed the nap though. Psyched I didn't do a PM cup of coffee. Recharge and get back into attack mode!

9 AM

Bouldering (Price) 1:30:00 [4]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Decent day before skin was cooked, and the sun came. Quickly repeated the 5 and 6 at Baby's Got Biceps boulder, and then worked on bottom half of Showcase One v6 hard. I'd wanted to do Showcase Showdown v7 but couldn't do the cross move. I did a few hard moves I'd never done on that boulder, which is cool. Maybe I'll go back later this summer and try to get there earlier. I need to recover from the trip, body and mind. It was good to sort of get out of town for the morning though.

Monday Jun 27, 2016 #

Note
slept:12.2 weight:139.2lbs

Big sleep. Hallelujah.

Sunday Jun 26, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:139.8lbs

Left wrist started feeling tweaky last night out of nowhere. The only things different I've done in the past couple days are pruning trees on Fri. and sawing a few branches yesterday morning. Doesn't hurt to squeeze or pull.

8 AM

Hiking 1:27:00 [4] 3.0 mi (29:00 / mi) +1700ft 18:52 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

To/ from Chadbourne. Grueling but went by quickly. 51:xx up, which is a pr. Slow going down b/c of snake paranoia.

9 AM

Sport Climbing (Chadbourne) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

2x 11d wu
2 burns up to 4th bolt on Gray Boy 12d. Bottom felt fine. Could not do the 2 move crux boulder problem. Dang. Good to know.
Like 5 burns on Four Deep in the Hoopti 12d HARD- once to the anchors (the first set). On my last burn I clipped the 3rd bolt and fell off starting the last boulder problem. Wow. I was yelling my head off, trying super hard. I know I'm not recovered from the trip. But, the first 4 bolts up that route are proper hard. Psyched to work out and execute the bottom and do all of the moves. Who knows when we'll go back up there. I'd be psyched to send this thing though. So rad to have to go into battle mode for that long on a route.

Btw, my wrist has been and is fine. Weird.

Saturday Jun 25, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.4lbs

8 AM

Trail Run (Orson Smith TH) 33:09 [3] 3.27 mi (10:08 / mi) +470ft 8:55 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Easy, low-mo jog with C and B. Glad to get it done but I just want to go climbing. Back at it tmw.

Friday Jun 24, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:138lbs

Hibernation sleep. Needed it. A little groggy but feel ok.

Thursday Jun 23, 2016 #

8 AM

Sport Climbing (Wild Iris) 2:30:00 [4]
slept:7.5 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Awesome AM sesh at OK Corral
OS 10b, send Diamonds and Rain 12a 2nd go- one of the best of the trip
OS Poker Face Alice 12b steep- psyched
OS Tribal War 11b, so good. Love this place!

31 total pitches for the trip. I wanted to do at least one per hour driven, which would have been about 25.

A new goal for this year is to send 13a or harder at Wild Iris.

Wednesday Jun 22, 2016 #

7 AM

Sport Climbing (Spearfish, SD) 3:00:00 [5]
slept:7.5 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Blue Sky
OS 5.8 (to hang draws on 12a next to it for B)
Send Fire 12b 2nd go, really fun
Send Iron Horse 12a 1st try (2nd go total)
Beta burn on Monorail 12b, then repeated attempts to redpoint but kept slipping out of crux hold as the sun came. Oh well.
Flash Carp 10c to finish off the day.

Fun morning and last day in SD. Met up with Justin who joined us to TR a few pitches, which ate up shade time but was cool to meet him and chat.

Hiking 24:00 [3] 1.5 mi (16:00 / mi) +400ft 12:46 / mi

To/ from Blue Sky

Tuesday Jun 21, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.5 (rest day)

Drove to Mt. Rushmore, then did the Iron Mt. loop. Got in water at Pactola Lake. A lot of driving, but cool scenery and a needed break from climbing.

Monday Jun 20, 2016 #

10 AM

Hiking 30:00 [3]

To/ from Mohican Wall

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Spearfish, SD) 3:00:00 [5]
slept:10.5 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Big sleep at Spearfish Canyon Lodge after dinner of burger, fries, and beer. Even got to watch Game 7 of NBA Finals. Great night!

OS 10b, 10d
Send Last of the Mohicans 12a 2nd go
Then the day went downhill...
up 5 bolts on Last Dance 12c, HARD
up 2 bolts on Battlecry 12c, hard and sharp
1 hung Orphans of War 12a, fun moves and cool pockets
Fun day but drained totally drained the tank. I'm lucky my fingers didn't explode on Orphans. Aside from the 12c flails, a really good day.

Sunday Jun 19, 2016 #

7 AM

Sport Climbing (Spearfish, SD) 2:30:00 [4]
slept:6.5 shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Blue Sky crag
OS 10a, 10c, 11c Indecent Exposure
Send Black Slabbath 12a 2nd go
Beta burn on Iron Horse 12a, then sun came

Fun morning but definitely cooked from bad sleep the past 2 nights

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +500ft 18:11 / mi

To/ from Blue Sky
Woke at 4:30 getting eaten by bugs off rd 222. Rad morning at Roughlock Falls with B and C. Had it to ourselves as we had coffee and b'fast.

Saturday Jun 18, 2016 #

10 AM

Hiking 1:00:00 [3] 3.0 mi (20:00 / mi) +500ft 17:16 / mi
slept:7.5

To/ from Big Picture Gulley after driving to SD from Devil's Tower

11 AM

Sport Climbing (Spearfish, SD) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

OS 10a, 1.5 burns on an 11a I couldn't do all the moves on (!)
OS 12a Kick Axe
OS 12b Faster Pussycat
Send Clockwork Orange 12c 2nd go
Great first day in Spearfish! 6 pitches

Friday Jun 17, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.4lbs

Thursday Jun 16, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138.4lbs

Body feels a little beat up from my construction action yesterday. May sneak out for a jog but have lots of errands to do.

9 AM

Trail Run 47:29 [4] 5.13 mi (9:15 / mi) +617ft 8:19 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Anns/ Clarks CW. Good legs, though a little tired. Kinda attacked Clarks uphill and PR'd on it. Psyched I got out. Getting more motivated to run more after the next week of climbing.

Wednesday Jun 15, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.2 weight:138.2lbs

Got to bed at 10 after working in garage. Woke at 5:20 and couldn't fall back asleep. Feel ok though. TBD how I feel on a run today.

7 AM

Trail Run 51:00 [3] 5.1 mi (10:00 / mi) +300ft 9:28 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Anns/ Clarks CCW. Good legs. Watch was dead at trailhead, which was actually nice b/c I focused on how I felt not how on how my watch told me I was doing. Nice morning. Thought a lot about the van bed proj, which turned out rad btw.

Tuesday Jun 14, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.6lbs

Somehow woke before 6 and felt awake. Up til 10:45 last night messing with new phone.

7 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:15:00 [4]
shoes: Testarossa

Good sesh. Flash two v5s and good burns on a new cave 7- got to 3rd last move. Got in quite a few moderate to mod-hard moved. Good volume sesh w/out going to failure.

8 AM

Strength Training 9:00 [3]

3x 15 ring push ups
3x 15 sb squats
core stuff

Monday Jun 13, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.8 weight:138.4lbs

Hibernation sleep! First big one of the summer. Needed it. Super groggy today, even after coffee. Rest would be a good plan. Freaking awesome weekend!

Sunday Jun 12, 2016 #

7 AM

Hiking 1:00:00 [3] 4.0 mi (15:00 / mi)

To/from Namaste Wall

8 AM

Sport Climbing (Namaste Wall) 1:30:00 [3]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

2 burns on Hall of Smears 11c slab. So amazing but sun got on it.
Flash 11b extension to Half Route- pretty fun but could feel yesterday. Then, kinda mellow hanging out waiting for the sun to come off the slab again. Ended the day with 2 more burns on Smears but no send. Fell both times at the distinct crux. It's okay. I'm psyched to come back to do that and try the 13a on Namaste Wall. Incredible weekend at a really amazing area. So psyched we went there.

Saturday Jun 11, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.2 weight:139.2lbs

11 AM

Hiking 1:12:00 [3] 4.0 mi (18:00 / mi)

To/ from Namaste Wall

12 PM

Sport Climbing (Namaste Wall) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Flash 10a/b, Namaste 12a, Huecos Rancheros 12c, Dost Mitra 11a/b. Stellar day. This place is so f'ing amazing. Fired the crux of Rancheros by the skin of my teeth- so stoked! One of the coolest crags I've been to. The ratings are kinda soft, but the climbing is so fun and the walls are so impressive. So psyched.

Friday Jun 10, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:137.6lbs

Kinda crappy sleep anticipating going to AF this morning. Psyched to get back on the proj. Send!

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:42:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Cannabis
11b x2
High point on first burn of Something Wild, followed by biggest whipper on it yet. Then, conditions went to total crap. So f'ing frustrating. I had a mini meltdown. I felt so good warming up then seemed to all of a sudden feel awful. Started up Mission Control but came down at 3rd bolt b/c the rock felt slimey, and I was just over it. So, while I feel like it was a total fail I did get a high point. I need to stop forcing the route on myself when the conditions suck. Next week may be better with cooler temps. Otherwise, I want to avoid it for a while.

Thursday Jun 9, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138.4lbs

Wednesday Jun 8, 2016 #

6 AM

Road Run 31:38 [3] 3.62 mi (8:44 / mi) +93ft 8:32 / mi
slept:8.0 weight:138.4lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 8

Slow and easy in the hood. Legs sore and tired from Mon. Ok jog though. Not too hot yet. 8hr mtg at the district today. Psyched to climb this weekend!

Tuesday Jun 7, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:139.2lbs

8 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:24:00 [4]
shoes: Testarossa

The best gym sesh in a long time. The new problems were likely soft, but I felt decent. Flashed three 5s, two 6s, did another v6 I'd not done before plus a bunch of 3s and 4s. Good moderate mileage. Only 2 other people there. Psyched.

Also, it was good to pull on some actual holds after the past few trips to Cannabis. It was a nice mental break today.

9 AM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

trx/ ring push ups 10, 15, 15
core stuff- extreme plank, woodchops, leg lifts
3x 15 swiss ball squats

Monday Jun 6, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.8 weight:138.4lbs

Slept ok. Likely rest day with random errands.

10 AM

Trail Run (Bells Canyon) 1:47:34 [3] 6.39 mi (16:50 / mi) +2324ft 12:31 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Unexpected jog/hike to the base of the second big waterfall in Bells Canyon. I though about going to the upper reservoir but it sounded like a storm was coming in and I didn't want to totally destroy my legs. That trail is pretty steep with a lot of big boulders. The falls I was (2 of them) were pretty awesome. Fun morning up there and was a good escape from the heat. I'll likely go to the top sometime this summer. Psyched to get higher up there- so much rock!

Sunday Jun 5, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:137.8lbs

Pretty good sleep. Body feels ok, head is good.

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Back to Cannabis
wu on 11b, then 11b TR
one hung Something Wild 1st go but temps were obviously warmer as I lowered off. I tried it 3 more times over the next couple hours, 2-hanging it on the last go. Good temps are key for the crux b/t bolts 3 and 4. Frustrating to not beat the heat but came up with some better beta in a couple spots. Plan is to go back on Fri. B sent though.

Saturday Jun 4, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:137.6lbs

Slept ok. Calves kinda tight but good head. Send today!

8 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Cannabis
wu on 11b, tried Something Wild- not wu enough. OS Downtown Brown 11c-hard. 3 more burns on Something Wild. Humid today and body not great. Oh well. Better luck tmw.

Friday Jun 3, 2016 #

5 AM

Road Run 30:22 [3] 3.52 mi (8:38 / mi) +95ft 8:25 / mi
slept:7.0 weight:139.2lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 8

Pretty crappy sleep. Woke at 2 and took about an hour to fall back asleep. Got up to run before the heat and before another day of probably a lot of sitting.

Thursday Jun 2, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.7 weight:138.2lbs (rest day)

Holy cow. Longer than expected work day, then traffic coming home.

Wednesday Jun 1, 2016 #

5 AM

Road Run 36:00 [3] 4.15 mi (8:40 / mi) +139ft 8:24 / mi
slept:7.5 weight:137.8lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 8

Easy in the hood. Awesome morning. Low back a little stiff, but overall, body pretty good. I picked up the pace a couple times, but the objective was to go easy the whole time.

I never sleep well the last week of school. I hope I'm not a wreck this weekend. It's okay though. Last night I couldn't fall asleep b/c I was thinking about stuff I'm psyched to do this summer.

Gym + HB after work. Psyched.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 36:00 [4]
shoes: Testarossa

Flash two v5s, send v6 2nd go. Left early b/c I wanted to be fresh for HB workout at home.

5 PM

Hangboard 6:00 [3]

Did 4 sets plus a campus set. Forearms were just super pumped. Idk what's going on. Tried to change up grips but didn't really help. Gonna stop with training stuff for a while and just climb.

Strength Training (core) 6:00 [3]

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