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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 30 days ending Apr 30, 2014:

activity

time

miles

+ft

Sport Climbing

12:30:00

Bouldering

7:00:00

Road Run

3:24:40

21.99

(9:18)

35.39

(5:47)

1250

Trail Run

1:14:00

6.1

(12:08)

9.82

(7:32)

475

Strength Training

11:00

Total

24:19:40

28.09

45.21

1725

averages - sleep:8.6 weight:141.5lbs

2:30

0:00

» now

Wednesday Apr 30, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.9 weight:141.6lbs

Gotta run today. Going nuts.
Swelling has gone down in left middle finger. It's still stiff though. I hope it's not a stress fracture. No climbing again til Saturday.

4 PM

Trail Run 33:00 [3] 2.45 mi (13:28 / mi) +75ft 13:05 / mi
shoes: Montrail Rogue Fly

Fail on the run attempt after 16min. Legs felt dead. I felt low blood sugar. Walked it in aside from the last 2-3min of jogging at the end. Nice day though. I'm having an off week, physically and mentally. Don't dwell on it.

Tuesday Apr 29, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:140.8lbs (rest day)

Left middle finger still sore but feels a little less stiff.

Monday Apr 28, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:141.2lbs

Left middle finger is sore and a little swollen at the middle knuckle. Nuts. No climbing for a few days. I'll ice and keep an eye on it. It felt a little stiff at the end of the day yesterday but didn't bother me last night before bed. I woke up a couple times during the night, though, and it was starting to feel sore.

5 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

4x 10 ring push ups, 2 sets of ring leg lifts while cutting the grass and doing yard work. I think hanging from the ring jugs helped stretched my finger some. I'll likely climb on Wed. Long work+class day tomorrow.

Sunday Apr 27, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:141.8lbs

12 PM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 1:30:00 [3]

Cold and snowy down there but still got in some routes.
OS 5.9 (Rain on Lichen- first bolted sport route in the canyon), 10a, 11c; 11c 2nd go; Chocolate Bunny (5.12a) 2nd go- 40th 5.12, I think.

Saturday Apr 26, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:141.2lbs

11 AM

Road Run 28:00 [3] 3.0 mi (9:20 / mi) +150ft 8:55 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Slow and easy in the rain. Pretty uninspiring but got it done. Hopefully, it won't rain tomorrow. It'll be a climbing day regardless though.

Friday Apr 25, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.3 weight:140.6lbs

Woke at 3 and took an hour to fall back asleep.

Thursday Apr 24, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:142lbs

12 PM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 1:30:00 [3]

11b, 11a, hung draws on 12a for B, 11b. Then sent Juggernaut Roof (5.12b/c) 3rd go. Awesome route. 6 pitches on the day. 2nd try on the roof was from Juggernaut anchors, so it was only a 1/3 pitch or so. Good ending to an otherwise lazy day. I think I'm still recovering from last weekend. Wow.

Wednesday Apr 23, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:141.4lbs (rest day)

B made me make brownies last night, and then I ate a third of them. Weak.

Bailed on a run to do yard work instead. Climbing in AF tmw, so I'd rather save the energy for that.

Tuesday Apr 22, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:140lbs (rest day)

Slept ok, but woke up 4 or 5 times in the last hour before the alarm. Back to work and class tonight.

Monday Apr 21, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.8lbs

9 AM

Road Run 31:24 [3] 3.56 mi (8:49 / mi) +150ft 8:29 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Brisk-feeling pace. Legs ok. Nice morning.

12 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:30:00 [3]

Checked out the new gym, which is pretty cool. Cimbed well considering it was my 4th day on in 5 days. Skin held up okay. Flashed some 5s and two 6s. Ended with some legs lifts, dips, and push ups on the rings.

Sunday Apr 20, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.7 weight:141.8lbs

Decent sleep. Yard work yesterday was good active recovery, i think. Back to echo today to send the proj.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo Canyon/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [3]

wu on 10b, 11c
Send Crazy Train (5.13a) 4th go of the day! So psyched. 5 days, 18 tries. I fell going to the last jug the first 3 tries, but found a key intermediate hold to make the third to last move less powerful after falling on the 3rd burn.
Cooldown on 11a.

Psyched and relieved to finally do it. Just like on the Abyss, I had to go through the angry frustrated phase. Then, I'd discover the smallest beta change, feel curious yet confident about the next go with the new beta, and then, boom, I sent.

Psyched to get on some new routes and see how hard I can climb. Hot, then perfect, day out there today. Man, climbing is rad.

Saturday Apr 19, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:140.6lbs

Friday Apr 18, 2014 #

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 1:30:00 [3]
slept:9.5

Slept really well in the van- so tired.
Fun warm up at school room on 10b and 10a, then to pipeline. Repeat honey bucket and sent Neptune cocktail second go. 3 burns on golden boy 12c. Good route. Should go down next visit. Fun 2 days before the crowds start hitting that place.

Thursday Apr 17, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:141.6lbs

Sport Climbing (Maple Canyon) 2:00:00 [3]

Lots of hiking today.
First to pipe dream where we did the 10a and 11a warm ups. I went off route twice on dry times like a moron. Went to Minimum crag, where I Onsighted 49 and cobble almighty, both soft 12a. Finished with 11a cool down.

Wednesday Apr 16, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:142.2lbs (rest day)

Errands after work. Arm is sore from taking out my wallet so much. Expensive afternoon.

Tuesday Apr 15, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:142.4lbs

4 PM

Road Run 41:20 [3] 4.35 mi (9:30 / mi) +350ft 8:50 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Hilly gully exploration jog. Legs ok. Hot today.

Monday Apr 14, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.3 weight:142.2lbs (rest day)

In bed before 8:15. Big sleep.

Sunday Apr 13, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.3 weight:141.8lbs

Best and deepest sleep I've had in a long time. I guess I worked harder than I realized on those routes yesterday.

10 AM

Bouldering (Gym) 2:30:00 [3]

Climbed ok after a slow warm up. Flashed a 6 and some 5s. Ended with 2.5 sets of stacked problems rated 5,5,3,4. 3x 12 dips, 2moj plank and leg lifts upstairs to finish wrecking myself. May not climb again til Thursday.

Saturday Apr 12, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.3 weight:141.2lbs

10 AM

Sport Climbing (AF) 2:00:00 [3]

wu on 10d, 10a
Hung the draws on 12a for B and took once or twice. Did Woodstock (5.12b) first try of the day, thankfully. Glad to have that thing out of my life. Onsighted Secret Weapon (5.12b) to finally have done all of the routes on Division Wall.

After 90min of not climbing, climbed Isotoner Moaner to the 6th bolt. Then, after another big rest/ laziness tried Facelift and got kinda spanked. 6.5 pitches. Got the 2 main objectives done.

Friday Apr 11, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:142.2lbs

Woke 30min early and couldn't fall back asleep. I'm back into a granola before bed habit the past couple nights. Darn it.

Thursday Apr 10, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:142lbs

5 PM

Road Run 37:35 [3] 4.11 mi (9:09 / mi) +250ft 8:39 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Pretty good run. First two miles sub 9mm and mile 4 was 7:48. I haven't run a sub 8min mile since forever ago. My legs are feeling better every week. I'm starting to dig exploring the gulley trails a little more too.

Wednesday Apr 9, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:143.4lbs

Boycotting ziti.

4 PM

Bouldering (LCC) 1:00:00 [3]

Cabbage patch circuit to baggins routine. I did do shrimps, a v3 I'd never done. Hot up there today.

Tuesday Apr 8, 2014 #

Note
slept:7.8 weight:141.6lbs

Slept poorly.

4 PM

Trail Run 41:00 [3] 3.65 mi (11:14 / mi) +400ft 10:11 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy on the Sandy BST. Legs pretty good. Sunny and warm.

Monday Apr 7, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:141.6lbs

Pretty wrecked this morning.

5 PM

Strength Training 5:00 [3]

Did 100 push ups in sets of 10-15, 60 sec plank, some leg lifts on the rock rings, and some weighted pinches (30lb) with the pinch blocks. Lazy exercise but just wanted to move a little.

Sunday Apr 6, 2014 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:142.2lbs

Heavy from granola. I feel like I haven't climbed in a week. Psyched to get out today. Hopefully, the weather cooperates.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Echo Canyon/ Dry Wall) 2:00:00 [3]

At the crag from 10:15 - 3:15. We had sun to rain to sleet. Crazy weather.

Warmed up on 11a, 11c, 12b with one hang, and then 5 burns on 13a. On 4th burn, I fell at the last hold. My left hand went in it and came out. I have the route so dialed. I figured out I just need a quick left arm shakeout at the last bolt before firing the last 2 hard moves. I was trying to get a rest at the 3rd bolt before. Good to know, and it may be the key beta for me. I just figured out too late today. I tried a 5th time and took after clipping the last bolt and realizing I was cooked. Next time: warm up on 11a, 11c, and then get on the 13a. Bummed I didn't send, but I did make progress. This route has become a game of inches for me. On the last 2 burns, I took the pressure off of myself. I almost got on an easier route to cool down instead of getting on it a 4th time. B told me to just try it. Next thing I knew, I was climbing above the last bolt and really feeling like I was going to do it.

Solid day. Recover. Get stronger.

Saturday Apr 5, 2014 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:141.8lbs

I didn't think I ate that much last night but I was super heavy before bed. Oh well. No climbing today but planning to go to Echo tmw. I really want to send that route this weekend.

10 AM

Road Run 33:00 [3] 3.5 mi (9:26 / mi) +150ft 9:04 / mi
shoes: GreenMirage3

Easy with B with a mile in the gulley. Legs not bad. Finished with leg lifts and push ups in the backyard. I want to move and breathe today but make sure I'm totally rested to crush tomorrow.

Thursday Apr 3, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:141.2lbs

5 PM

Road Run 33:21 [3] 3.47 mi (9:37 / mi) +200ft 9:07 / mi
shoes: ProGrid Ride5

Slow and easy with a mile on dirt in the gulley. Heart and lungs are good, legs not so much. Oh well. Glad I dragged myself out.

Wednesday Apr 2, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.7 weight:141.6lbs

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 2:00:00 [3]

So much for taking 4 days off from climbing. Was cold and rainy after work so I bailedp on a jog and hit the gym instead. Flashed a bunch of 5 s and a 6. Sent another 6 second go and did a 7 after 5 tries or so toward the end. Good session. Climbed well.

Tuesday Apr 1, 2014 #

Note
slept:8.4 weight:141.2lbs (rest day)

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