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Training Log Archive: chino

In the 30 days ending Apr 30, 2016:

	activity	#	time	miles		km		+ft
	Sport Climbing	10	26:00:00
	Hiking	9	6:51:00	15.5	(26:31)	24.95	(16:29)	3500
	Bouldering	5	5:30:00
	Trail Run	5	3:30:44	21.7	(9:43)	34.92	(6:02)	2583
	Road Run	1	30:36	3.5	(8:45)	5.63	(5:26)	150
	Strength Training	3	15:00
	Yoga/ Stretching	1	3:00
	Total	33	42:40:20	40.7		65.5		6233
averages - sleep:8.9 weight:138.8lbs

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Saturday Apr 30, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:139.4lbs

Fat from ziti. Pretty good sleep. Feel decent this AM.

9 AM

Hiking 42:00 [3] 1.5 mi (28:00 / mi) +500ft 21:17 / mi

To/ from billboard. 18:xx down with lollygagging and all.

10 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

It was drenched up there. Warmed up on Apetizer 12b/c. Repeated the redpt on it 3rd burn. Tried Monkey Brains 13a a few times. Worked out the lower moves. There was a wet streak where the biz starts. Psyched to work on it though. I'm actually glad Pickle was wet today. I totally needed to get on something different. B sent Apetizer. Good day, snow flurries and all. Looks like we're going to have a proper mountain spring. Sh*t.

Friday Apr 29, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:138lbs (rest day)

Thursday Apr 28, 2016 #

5 PM

Trail Run (Dimple Dell) 34:11 [3] 3.6 mi (9:30 / mi) +279ft 8:51 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Easy to mod in the gully. Cool and a little rain. Legs ok, head fine. 2 days in a row jogging. Nice. It feels good to mix it up with jogging again. With better weather, I'll be more psyched to get out for longer.

Wednesday Apr 27, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:139.4lbs

Fat from ziti, I guess. Slept ok, par for the course these days. Generally, kinda feeling like crap, low motivation. Rest, ride it out. The gray weather isn't helping.

5 PM

Trail Run (Dimple Dell) 49:34 [3] 5.0 mi (9:55 / mi) +487ft 9:05 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Mellow jog on sandy trails that I'd not run on before. Glad I got out- head needed it bad. I always play at moderate to hard intensity. I need to consciously do easy days, esp. with climbing. I know that's a big part of why I feel so cooked. So glad I ran. Nice job.

6 PM

Yoga/ Stretching 3:00 [3]

1min weighted plank
3x 10 swiss ball squats
foam roll back, butt, and IT bands

Tuesday Apr 26, 2016 #

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:06:00 [3]
shoes: Testarossa

Lo-mo, kinda weak sauce...again. I need to stop climbing at the gym on Tues. I did send an unrated v5/6 in the cave I'd not done. Just not psyched there, and don't feel recovered enough from the weekend to hangboard or campus. I drank 24oz of Skratch labs but still not enough calories after work.

5 PM

Strength Training 3:00 [3]

At home in the shed:
3x 12 rock ring push ups
2 sets (30-40 sec each) of suspension plank

Monday Apr 25, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.6 weight:139lbs

Slept ok. Weight up from dessert last night, I guess. Maybe run after work, depending on weather.

Sunday Apr 24, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:138.6lbs

Up at 5:30 to get after it before early PM family stuff.

8 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 1.5 mi (30:00 / mi) +500ft 22:48 / mi

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Back to the Billboard
wu 10c, highpoint on the 12b/c, then send 12b/c One that got away.
3 burns on Pickle, first was the best- stuck the big move, felt solid then slipped off. Some beta refinement, which is good. But, kinda distracted b/c we had a curfew plus it was pretty cold when we got up there. Oh well. Still got to spend the morning in the mountains. Good livin.

Saturday Apr 23, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:138.2lbs

Pretty beat up this morning. Maybe jog. Super windy.

10 AM

Trail Run 37:34 [3] 4.0 mi (9:24 / mi) +490ft 8:25 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

From O.Smith. Mostly easy jogging with stiff headwind first 1.5mi. Felt good to get out and breathe, get some active recovery. Psyched for dawn patrol in AF tmw.

Friday Apr 22, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:137.6lbs

10 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 1.5 mi (30:00 / mi) +500ft 22:48 / mi

to/from billboard

11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 3:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu 10c, finally to the top of one that got away 12b/c, 3 burns on pickle to high point- rt 2 finger pocket. Cd on one that got away- no send, tired. Awesome day up there- dialed in beta and now know I can send Pickle soon. Love that crag. Life is good.

Thursday Apr 21, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:138.6lbs (rest day)

12+ hour work day. Get it done.

Wednesday Apr 20, 2016 #

5 AM

Road Run 30:36 [3] 3.5 mi (8:45 / mi) +150ft 8:24 / mi
slept:8.1 weight:138.4lbs shoes: Saucony Ride 8

Unplanned AM jog, but the cat woke me at 4:55. I felt awake. Really nice AM. Lower back a little stuff but really good to get out. ~5 x 10 sec hill sprints.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 42:00 [3]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Holy cow. Super weak sauce. Flashed a 5 in the cave and a 4 on the slab. Worked a cave 6 and 7, and then totally crashed. Oh well. Not recovered from the weekend/ spring break.

Tuesday Apr 19, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138.4lbs (rest day)

Late getting out of work, then 50min in the car picking up C. Got home and had zero mo. Whatever. Did a little yard work, finished reading my book.

Monday Apr 18, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.0 weight:138.6lbs (rest day)

Up late after a family dinner. Body and skin pretty beat up. Typical Monday. Head is decent though. Great day yesterday.

Decent day at work. Taking a lazy afternoon. Psyched.

Sunday Apr 17, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:138.4lbs

10 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 1.5 mi (30:00 / mi) +500ft 22:48 / mi

To/ from Billboard. C pulled me up to get a quicker up time today.

11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Standard billboard wu-10c, 12a to try 12b/c- no send.
2 or 3 burns on Pickle to 4th bolt. Stuck the rail on last burn, but my left palm was taking a beating from basically slapping for it- gonna have a bruise. I have some good beta for that section, just need to be fresher. I didn't want to hurt my hand. So, I finally got on Dwarf Toss 12c. Sent it 2nd go Psyched. Good day in the mts. Psyched to go back.

Saturday Apr 16, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.5 weight:139.4lbs

Feel low energy this morning. Get psyched. I'm hoping it's just from inactivity yesterday.

10 AM

Hiking 54:00 [3] 1.5 mi (36:00 / mi) +500ft 27:22 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

To/from Billboard

11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 2:30:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

Billboard
wu 10c, redpt 12a and tried One that got away- new wu routine here.
Climbed up first 4 bolts on This must be the pickle (12d/13a). Climbed to the top on next burn. Tried again, got to 4th bolt and was powered down. Cooled down on 12a. Solid day but paying for the Thurs gym sesh. Psyched to take down Pickle though- good rock and cool moves.

Friday Apr 15, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.2 weight:139.2lbs

Note
slept:2.0

Nap after work. Likely the least active day not from injury I've had in years. Walked to the school where the seminar was. Sat for 6 hours, except for trips to the bathroom. B picked me up. When I got home I took a nap b/c my head and should hurt. Feel better now. Hopefully, I feel rad tmw. Really good seminar though.

Thursday Apr 14, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:138.4lbs

Need to get out and do something today. Make it happen. In a funk this week. Just need to recover from last week, get back into a work groove.

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:06:00 [4]
shoes: Scarpa Vapor V

Good session in the gym. Was going to run, but it was cold and raining. Climbed quite well. Sent a 5 I didn't do last time, plus a 6 and a 7. Nice. Also flashed 2 new 5s. I think I can feel a difference from not running as much- more power. I may try to get out tmw AM. Climbing is the priority sport though. Did some ab wheel reps when I got home.

Wednesday Apr 13, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.0 weight:139.2lbs

Sleeping a little better each night this week. Body feels ok today. Mentally, this is shaping up to be a tough week. Turn it around.

Tuesday Apr 12, 2016 #

4 PM

Bouldering (Gym) 1:06:00 [4]
shoes: Testarossa

Decent session until I totally crashed. Climbed better than expected considering how I've felt since Sunday afternoon. Flashed three new v6s and 2 new 5s, which is cool but is likely due to soft grades rather than being stronger. Whatever. Good ego fluff.

5 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

3x 10 suspension push ups + core in the shed after the gym. I felt like I could have done hangboarding but want to give myself more time to recover leading up to the weekend.

Monday Apr 11, 2016 #

Note
slept:7.5 weight:139lbs

Lights out at 8:30 but broken sleep. Oh well. Typical night before return to work.

Sunday Apr 10, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.4 weight:140lbs

Up too late eating and drinking too much but a fun night. Last day of break. Make it count!

11 AM

Sport Climbing (American Fork) 3:00:00 [5]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

wu on Naked Nebula 12a repeat- felt pretty easy.
3 burns on Naked Knuckle 13a- did all the moves. 3rd go was super weak. I'm not recovered from Sunset Alley (duh). Psyched to come back to it though. It's really good.
Flash Winds of Fire 10a/b- kinda scary but cool to finally do it.
OS Kiddie Pool at Division to finish the day. Actually a really cool route. Long, solid day. My body is definitely in a hole though. Need to rest big time the next couple days.

Saturday Apr 9, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.5 weight:139.2lbs

Friday Apr 8, 2016 #

8 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +200ft 20:33 / mi
slept:9.6 shoes: Bajada II

9 AM

Sport Climbing (Sunset Alley) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

OS 10v, 11a
2 burns on Weirding Way. mm of progress...sort of.
Send Maximus 12c 2nd go as the rain began. Overall, a good day.
Another fun trip to Sunset Alley. 2 takeaways: I'm not good at onsighting here. The routes are easy to 2 move v5 to easy. I.e., not much sustained engaged climbing. It's fine, but it increases the appeal of returning to the Grail. Psyched to climb some more cool routes and work Weirding Way a little more.

Thursday Apr 7, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.1 weight:139.2lbs

12 PM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +200ft 20:33 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

1 PM

Sport Climbing (Sunset Alley) 3:00:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

OS 10b, 11a
Send Shell Shocked 12c 2nd go
1 burn on Weirding Way
Send Frack 12b 2nd go.

Wednesday Apr 6, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.5 weight:139lbs

Stayed up too late and drank too much. Oh well. Spring break.

10 AM

Trail Run (Corner Canyon ) 50:29 [3] 5.1 mi (9:54 / mi) +705ft 8:45 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Anns-Clarks CCW plus pot hill climb and then some to hit 5. It now takes me 3, not 2, miles to be warmed up. So, don't give up on the run within the first 3mi is the lesson. Gorgeous morning. Legs were so-so after finally warming up.

Tuesday Apr 5, 2016 #

Note
slept:10.0 weight:138.4lbs

Feeling better today. Kinda stiff. Jog and gym today.

10 AM

Trail Run (Corner Canyon ) 38:56 [3] 4.0 mi (9:44 / mi) +622ft 8:29 / mi
shoes: Pegasus

Ok jog form the Equest. center. Got out of the mindset after hitting closures b/c of the gas line construction, so turned back around 2mi. Legs were fine. I was a little low blood sugar, but mostly just wanted to go climbing. Good to get it out though. I'll likely go tmw for a bit longer.

12 PM

Bouldering (Gym- Millcreek) 1:30:00 [4]
shoes: Testarossa

Decent session. Good to climb somewhere new. Flashed 2 v6, did another 2nd go. Did a v5 2nd go, plus some 3s and a 4. The 5s felt hard. Good workout. Skin felt ok.

1 PM

Strength Training 6:00 [3]

3 sets db chest press 8@35, 40, 6@45lb
plank on rings
Pulled something in my left should/ lat. Should be fine though. Weight room...

Monday Apr 4, 2016 #

Note
slept:9.0 weight:139.2lbs

Slept ok. Body and skin kinda beat up this morning. Awesome weekend.

Sunday Apr 3, 2016 #

9 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +300ft 19:42 / mi
slept:10.5 shoes: Bajada II

To/from Sunset Alley

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Sunset Alley) 2:30:00 [4]
shoes: Miura VS Blue

OS 10a, 11b
Send D 12c/d 2nd go of the day. Boom! (M. Doyle called it 12d on 8a. Maybe I should too?) :)
Flash Three Pump Chump 12a to finish off my body and skin. So rad. This place is amazing. So psyched!

Saturday Apr 2, 2016 #

9 AM

Hiking 45:00 [3] 2.0 mi (22:30 / mi) +300ft 19:42 / mi
shoes: Bajada II

toi/from crag

10 AM

Sport Climbing (Sunset Alley) 3:00:00 [4]
slept:9.4 shoes: Miura VS Blue

OS 10c, 11b
Send Frick 12b 3rd go
Tried Weirding Way 13a to 5th bolt? To the hard boulder problem. Going to spend more time on this one soon.
Tried D 12c/d
OS Hopsickle 12a- awesome, then 1 hung it to clean the draws.
Solid 1st day here. Such good climbing.

Friday Apr 1, 2016 #

Note
slept:8.3 weight:139lbs (rest day)

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