A Lochnagar epic.
Headed up the usual route. Pretty good going up the track with a couple of cm of fresh snow on top of some old hard stuff. Wheezing badly, but apart from that made good progress up to the foot of the Ladder. Then the fun began. Under the fresh snow was a solid sheet of ice, which was ok to start, but as the angle got steeper I wasn't getting any decent grip in my dobbs. Couldn't turn back as going down would have been even worse. Tried to pick a line using the big boulders but essentially spent 25mins or so shitting myself before reaching the top of the Ladder (and yes the only other people who had been up there had been wearing crampons).
Considered bailing out and heading straight back down the Glas Allt, but it was a stunning day, and the summit looked so close that I couldn't resist carrying on. Rest of the ascent was ok (comparitively) but had been out over 100' by the time I reached the top. Had planned to return the same way, but as I didn't want to face the Ladder had to opt for the longer route back by Glas Allt. Initial descent was ok (ish, apart from a short section of bum slide) until I reached the short drop into the hanging valley. Then I was faced with 100m or so of diagonal descent on the same sheet ice, with no features to catch onto. After trying various methods ended up crawling down backwards on all fours, getting a bit of grip with my knees in shallow toe holes. Not fun.
By this stage was getting worried about time for picking up E, but didn't dare push on too fast. Got to the bottom in one piece but completely exhausted from adrenaline, fear and use of all sorts of strange muscles. Jog back along the loch was a long way, but was happy still to be alive.
Made it back in time for E - just.
Some nice photos...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32677799@N02/sets/721...