Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp.
So Dean says unequivocally that all the Sherpas will be carrying day packs and that they want us to enjoy ourselves as much as possible. So Ang Dawa, one of the Sherpas, took my pack and I didn't need to feel guilty. Turns out he was one of the more experienced Sherpas and knew the ins and outs of the trail and several times took me on round about routes that might have been a little longer but avoided all sorts of ups and downs. And he quickly figured out what I could handle easily and what was difficullt for me (steep narrow downs) so he tried to help me avoid that. He was great and I totally put my trust in him. And he got me to Base Camp and it didn't seem to take much effort.
The final trek is kind of interesting since it's over some glaciers. There's a ridge line that has some great views that stays put, but the section before and after apparently shifts all the time. Got some glimpses of the very top of Everest on the way to base camp, but once at base camp it was hidden from view.
One of the decisions that WWT made was to stay overnight in Gorak Shep, get to base camp in the early morning and then hike out and down to Lobuche in the afternoon. This was a great way to do it since the weather in the morning is always the best. Also, it meant we had Base Camp pretty much to ourselves. We were lucky in that Lukla had been closed so that there were not a whole lot of other trekkers on our schedule. And most budget minded trekkers, hike to base camp from Lobuche getting there in the early afternoon. (We passed several groups on their was to base camp after we were already headed down.) There were two Russian dudes who had camped at base camp, but other than that there was no one else.
So base camp is really bizarre. There was no one there climbing so it was just an empty expanse of rocks. The rocks are continually moving as it's all over a glacier that is moving so from season to season it looks completely different. Apparently, many sherpas arrive a few weeks before the climbing season and dig out level spots for tents and the tents cover a huge expanse. But when we were there, there was nothing really to mark base camp other than a single stone, etched with Everest Base Camp 2018, on top of a big pile of stones with lots of prayer flags and scarves. So it was clear you were there, but there was nothing else around.
And the Khumbu Ice fall was off to the side, a little ways away from where we were - too far to want to go investigate. I was surprised at how steep it was; somehow in my mind I envisioned it as much flatter.
A couple in our group was celebrating their 20th anniversary - they actually signed up for the trip because the schedule had us getting to base camp on their anniversary. The Sherpas had planned a whole ceremony for them and it was so special. They burned some juniper that they had brought along and had some special tea and they had some rituals and draped the couple with the traditional scarves and sang some songs and it was just beautiful.
And then we took some group photos and the Sherpas did a Sherpa Dance and then it was time to go.
I didn't start my watch again for the trek out of base camp. it was about 3 hours to get to base camp but only 2 to get back to Gorak Shep where we had lunch and then another 3 hours or so to Lobuche. It was a reasonable hike out, not too steep and mostly downhill so easier on the lungs. A different Sherpa carried my pack after lunch - didn't really need them to but Dean was insisting so I said sure, why not.
On the trail to base camp.
On the ridge with some views of the top of Everest. Ang Dawa told me to put my finger up and then he positioned himself so I was pointing at it. I thought it was going to be really corny but I kind of like it.
And then marker that says you've made it to base camp.
The Khumbu Icefall heading up the mountain.
Me and Sherpa Ang Dawa who helped me up and then more importantly back down.
The ceremony down nefor the couple who was celebrating their 20th anniversary.
Our Sherpas doing their dance at base camp looking so spiffy in their red jackets and hats.