A run on Matinicus...tied to ferry pier (1-2 visits a month), considered a dark water dip upon returning. We’d seen some 13ish y/o girls jumping in there last eve. I could see it was possible to “make friends” with the water, dark water phobia be damned. A map w/o scale so get a sense...2 miles long of island, 6” of depiction. Miss some turns. Stop at church (which, of course, is unlocked) - try phone inside but don’t have # allowing distance call & no cell here. Go N & take right turn for the shade. Feels like a walk in Scandanavia to an O start but where are all the people? Glimpse a house thru trees so return to junction & go L this time. Summer rose everywhere. Right there, at an abandoned house, read “a loyal friend is better than 1000 relatives”. Continue & come upon the airstrip, go to water’s edge & then make my way back to four corners where I go straight (yesterday we went straight on the opposite option). Hear a solitary rooster along the way. Pass school, PO & cemetery. With some confusion, find road to South Sand beach, passed by yesterday entering Matinicus Roads...so very different an experience from land side. Have a “chariots of fire” moment on the shore cooled with a dip. Maine water is very cold. Think I might be on nature trail but not so & back to main road, cemetery & turn right this time for Bakery in Eva’s (signs to same) home. Yard full of vehicles, cooking gas canisters, one friendly old dog. Inside, I pick two blueberry coffee cakes the likes/heft/promise of which I have never seen. Back to the waterfront & chat with a woman who visits her SO in summer months. They bought a place at harborside in ’05. He’s a tatooed Kiwi who lives there year round (winter pop 20...). She is an academician who now works in DC. PhD in epidemiology and ran that dep’t at Yale medical school but was too often passed up & moved on. We talked briefly about ty 2 DM (pointed out its invasion of Iceland and China, a Western disease of obesity), how people might spend their time in such lonely winter outposts: alcohol & drugs & more & etc.... Back to boat where Beth was beginning to wonder where I was.