Note
My new air bed which was amazing with its built in pump (McKinley Trekker 2, though it doesn't seem to exist outside of a few norwegian shops) is actually awful. A not quite smooth bit of rock made a pinprick puncture which I discovered two 'nights' ago... slept on a mat of random clothing out on the coast, warm enough despite the wind, but not that comfortable. Patched it unsuccessfully with nice German glue and duct tape, so another poor night, this time in my tent in a campsite. Not as pretty, but showering is good.
Gunk production hasn't really diminished.
Boat to Bodø today, flying home in the morning.