Training Log Archive: iansmithIn the 7 days ending Mar 10, 2019:
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Saturday Mar 9, 2019 #
Climbing 1:30:00 [3]
Climbing with Katie at Basecamp; our outing was about three hours. I bouldered eight routes: V0s LT, V1s EIHQ, and V2s BJX. The only new routes from last time were I and B. It was much quieter this time, as they weren't celebrating the 3rd anniversary party with a bouldering competition. Instead of a community of 40-50 people attacking all the routes, there were perhaps 10-20. There was still good camaraderie - there were a few people of about my skill level working on the V2s that I exchanged tips with.
To reference BGallup, I cheated by "talling" my way through a couple of the pitches - overcoming inadequate technique by using my reach to bypass tricky parts. I have especially long arms, about 77" or 6" longer than my height. On H, the technical route involved some slippery handholds, but I bypassed those entirely by reaching for a distant undercling. I think I climbed it correctly once last week, but I failed in my attempts to climb it the usual way today.
I did a handful of autobelays afterward until my arms were destroyed. I haven't had trouble with any of the 5.6s and 5.7s on the autobelay; I was defeated by a 5.9 with some mickey-mouse shaped holds quite late in the session today.
Katie sent the V1s E and Q, and the V0s LTC. She also sent some 5.5s and 5.6s on top rope to great effect. A good day!
To reference BGallup, I cheated by "talling" my way through a couple of the pitches - overcoming inadequate technique by using my reach to bypass tricky parts. I have especially long arms, about 77" or 6" longer than my height. On H, the technical route involved some slippery handholds, but I bypassed those entirely by reaching for a distant undercling. I think I climbed it correctly once last week, but I failed in my attempts to climb it the usual way today.
I did a handful of autobelays afterward until my arms were destroyed. I haven't had trouble with any of the 5.6s and 5.7s on the autobelay; I was defeated by a 5.9 with some mickey-mouse shaped holds quite late in the session today.
Katie sent the V1s E and Q, and the V0s LTC. She also sent some 5.5s and 5.6s on top rope to great effect. A good day!
Thursday Mar 7, 2019 #
Cross Training (Squash) 40:00 [1]
Squash with Laleh.
Tuesday Mar 5, 2019 #
Note
I arranged a showing of Free Solo in a TMDT conference room with Katie, Jenny, and Meg; it was great fun. After working for a time, I walked home in -13 C conditions.
Monday Mar 4, 2019 #
7 PM
Running 20:00 [1] 4.0 km (5:00 / km)
Easy treadmill run at Hart House gym after chorus practice. I was reminded how much I detest the treadmill experience; even with an audiobook (relisten of Viesturs'K2), it's intensely boring.
Erg 21:40 [1] 5.0 km (4:20 / km)
weight:93kg
Erg. I felt a bit weak after the treadmill, reflecting my terrible fitness. I'm also much heavier than I expected, and possibly the heaviest I have ever been. I would like to get down to 80 kg by the end of the year; I was 75 when I started college. My weight is not ideal and is a bit disappointing, but it reflects my general lack of activity and more sedentary lifestyle.
Strength training 5:00 [3]
A quick set of 5 pullups, tuckups, plank, oblique crunches.