Training Log Archive: Runner99

Bouldered for a while. Did a couple problems, focused on flagging.

Worked on onsighting. Went for a 5.13c (haha maybe was a bit head over heels) and got shutdown in the crux which was like two bad pinches.

Next went for a 5.12a that screwed me over last time I tried it, and I redpointed it!!! So that was a positive. Still had so many things to work on though. To brainstorm, ill jot down a few:

- Always completely memorizing my sequence, I often skimp on that, therefore I sometimes have gaps that are detrimental

- Climb faster; even though I feel like I'm going quite fast, then I still get feedback that I am too slow. This might tie into sequencing...

-Use my feet, often mentally, I feel like I'm just focusing on my handholds, and therefore after I figure out my hands, then I look for feet that would compromise my position. I need to change this type of mentality.

1min rests between each exercise

Hanging:
3x open hand crimps small rungs (10-15sec)
3x half open crimps small rungs (10-15 sec)
2x finger curls 2 feet on, open hand -> full crimp (10-15reps)

Strengthening:
3x lock off campus traverse
2x row pushups (6 reps)
2x 40sec pull up (20 up 20 down)

Climbing:
5.10d slow motion, really anti-intuitive

Lead:

5.11b onsight
5.11c 2 falls, pretty hard
5.12a 2 falls bleh so crimpy
5.10c onsight
5.11a onsight
5.11d onsight
5.11b 2 falls dead. done.

Warm up 5.10b
Then jumped onto a 5.11c/d (can't recall) that had a hard move in it and got me in the game.
Onsighted a purple 5.11a if I had to guess.
Tried to onsight black only with features, (5.11c) and the jump caught me by surprise so I fell once, literally getting my butt kicked in the process.
Did 5 second hovers up lime green 5.11a, which was super pumpy and that's it.

Forgot the names so i'll make them up.

Elbows in arms out theraband
Sword out theraband
wall raises theraband
right hand wrist rotations

Some arm swings.
35 moves on jugs, good feet
3 dynamic boulder problems on jugs.

4 times a 24 move easy boulder problem (5.10b) with a crappy kneebar, and 2 clips (each clipped 2wice) *
Climbed the loop 4 times, after each time did core and then 4:30 min rest.

*should have clipped one at the end to simulate anchor

[1 min sit ups legs @ 90 deg
1 min twisties
2min plank
2x (1min side plank)] x4

That hurt so much, but as Tony would say; it was good pain. Lost form 2wice in the R side plank, due to awkward balancing, but did a nice job pushing through the normal plank, that was the hardest.

Wall sit.

Hams, sides, and right forearm.

Warmed up with a little bit of bouldering with Kyle no jumping down.

Then moved onto leading ropes:

Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.

Warmed up with a little bit of bouldering with Kyle no jumping down.

Then moved onto leading ropes:

Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.

Doctor informed me that its probably a stress fracture, so I have to be more conscientious about how I train. I'll rest and then slowly ramp up my training, avoid pavement, and try to use more cushioned shoes.

C • Stress fracture 5