Training Log Archive: Runner99In the 7 days ending Feb 7, 2016:
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Sunday Feb 7, 2016 #
Climbing 1:00:00 [4]
slept:9.0
Did some bouldering, and then led a bunch of 5.11s and some 5.10s.
Did yellow (5.11c) so Ha!
Did yellow (5.11c) so Ha!
Saturday Feb 6, 2016 #
9 AM
Bouldering 20:00 [1]
Feeble warm up. Did some arm and leg swings, and then a little bit of bouldering.
Climbing (Route 1 ) 5:00 [5]
Climbed a 5.12a. More or less perfect sequence after I executed it. But wasted time on some moves. Need to get more fluid and not hesitate as much. Fell right after I clipped off of the worst crimp on the route. Should have skipped it and clipped off of the next hold.
Climbing (Route 2) 5:00 [5]
Probably another 5.12a, it was a 10ish move traverse into the start of a 5.11d. That became pretty pumpy, and so everyone including me got shut down at the bottle neck where you had to campus on the last roof. Practice, practice practice!
Climbing 30:00 [4]
After the mock comp routes, I begged Tyson to belay me on a 5.11d, which I flashed, t'was easy. Next did a 5.11c which was interesting, and required some deadpointing. After that I tried a black 5.11d which was very hard, and I fell on the last 2 moves. Finally I gave a red 5.12a a couple of attempts, and sent it on my third! So that was great.
Bouldering 30:00 [5]
Bouldered for like 2 more hrs before my parents came. Climbed 2 slabby technical problems. And then sent a double hand dyno. Finally projected a crazy red problem, and fell on the last move on my last attempt.
4 PM
Forest Orienteering (Banff Centre) 15:40 [5] 2.76 km (5:41 / km)
Decent run. Focused on 2 things:
-always having a plan, and stopping if I didn't
-planning whenever I could
I think that I could say that I succeeded in both, because most of the run I was planning, and I never had to stop. I slowed down on one occasion to finalize my plan but other than that everything was smooth.
The only negative part of the run, was that I missed a loop, and had to butterfly it, from the original sequence. But in the end I ran the same distance.
-always having a plan, and stopping if I didn't
-planning whenever I could
I think that I could say that I succeeded in both, because most of the run I was planning, and I never had to stop. I slowed down on one occasion to finalize my plan but other than that everything was smooth.
The only negative part of the run, was that I missed a loop, and had to butterfly it, from the original sequence. But in the end I ran the same distance.
Running 12:05 [2] 1.67 km (7:14 / km)
Warmed up jogging with Jeff. Then did a few strides.
Running (cool down) 16:03 [1] 2.04 km (7:52 / km)
Jogged back to the car.
Friday Feb 5, 2016 #
5 PM
Running 20:00 [3] 2.71 km (7:23 / km)
Warmed up by jogging. Checked out an area north of bottomlands, and it looks like a potentially really good sprint map. Just need to wait for it to ripen up a little (there's some construction).
Forest Orienteering 20:43 [5] 4.25 km (4:52 / km)
Ran the Bottomlands sprint I made. Was pretty smooth. Didn't make too many mistakes. It started getting dark and that's when it began to get really hard. Only able to read ahead when there were street lamps, limited my speed. Had the wrong map file under the course, so the beginning was a little weird.
Wednesday Feb 3, 2016 #
6 PM
Bouldering 36:00 [5]
slept:8.5
Warmed up with 5 laps and a few pull ups. 1 lap about 20 moves.
Workout:
6.5 laps - 13min rest
10L - 6.5min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
8.5L - 10min
-----------------
Total: 55L ---> 1100 moves
Workout:
6.5 laps - 13min rest
10L - 6.5min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
8.5L - 10min
-----------------
Total: 55L ---> 1100 moves
Core 10:00 [2]
toe touches - 2T
leg lifts - 5
[banana boats
pushups
plank front
plank Rside
plank Lside
splay circles
scissors
sit ups
twisties] each 1min with 10 sec rest
leg lifts - 5
[banana boats
pushups
plank front
plank Rside
plank Lside
splay circles
scissors
sit ups
twisties] each 1min with 10 sec rest
Opposition 8:00 [2]
wrist raises - 15x each hand
wall sit - 20sec@90deg, 20s@45deg, 20s@75deg
wall squat - 2 on each side
wall sit - 20sec@90deg, 20s@45deg, 20s@75deg
wall squat - 2 on each side
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Hams, pecs, shoulders, forearms, sidelegs
Tuesday Feb 2, 2016 #
6 AM
Strengthening (warm up) 20:00 [2]
slept:7.33
Jogged a few laps, then did a bunch of core, little bit of stretching, and finally a full lap of the tower.
Bouldering 5:00 [3]
Tried about 2 boulders or something. Didn't make much progress on either one.
Climbing 20:00 [3]
Was peer-pressured into trying the 5.13a, foot slipped AGAIN. Feeling like crap. Belayed Cam on it, he did great, made it to the last move and just needs to stick it.
Workout:
Full lap of the tower, then an attempt on a redpoint level route. Was only slightly rushed through the full lap, and so I began the route pumped, and got to the same point as I had before, which was very bad.
Also sent a black (5.11-?) onsight.
Summary of my climbing:
Nearly no endurance. And even my bouldering is beginning to go downhill.
Resolution: begin actually training, so that you can walk up 5.12s and don't need to worry about clipping.
Workout:
Full lap of the tower, then an attempt on a redpoint level route. Was only slightly rushed through the full lap, and so I began the route pumped, and got to the same point as I had before, which was very bad.
Also sent a black (5.11-?) onsight.
Summary of my climbing:
Nearly no endurance. And even my bouldering is beginning to go downhill.
Resolution: begin actually training, so that you can walk up 5.12s and don't need to worry about clipping.
Core 9:00 [3]
12 different exercises, 45sec each 10sec rests. Most for core. (I think I did pushups)
Opposition 6:00 [2]
TUV's
Wall sit
Wrist raises
Wall sit
Wrist raises
Stretching 10:00 [0]
hams, pecs, glutes, forearms