Training Log Archive: Runner99

Muir Valley - Great Wall

5.7 TR
5.8 TR
Dynabolt 5.10a OS
5.9
5.10d TR
Momma Cindy 5.11a OS
5.11a OS
5.11a TR
Bucaneer 5.11b OS (onsight)

Climb the easiest stuff in the Zoo.

Put me in the Zoo 5.9+ lead (onsight)
Chimp 5.10a lead (onsight)
Armadillo 5.10d TR
Jailbird 5.10dTR

C • Zoo and Chimp 3

Fun middle course, lots of bearings of which most I nailed. Still I made too many mistakes for it to be a good run. 3 mistakes roughly 2 min lost. 3rd place. :D

Middle - 11 M-20 12 Blue - Splits

I still did not quite recover from the flight. I was really tired and was not able to focus at the end. At the beginning I was able to focus a bit more because it was quite cold which was keeping me awake.

Long - 10 F-21 11 M-20 - Splits

Event: Flying Pig XIX - U.S. Individual Champs - Sprint-Middle-Long
 

We had a terrible 12h flight to Cincinnati over Regina, Toronto and I had very little sleep. Made two mistakes due to fatigue, first was the trap, then the second was that I started running the course in the wrong direction where the line crossed through another control. Did not feel fresh.

Sprint - 11 M-20 12 M-21 - Splits

Morning training on the Team.

Coyote Canyon - Loads of new snow. I walked and placed about 11 controls.

Orienteering - Fish Creek Park traverse.

Climbing on the Team in the morning.

Coyote Canyon at 1:10000 with Damian. Last 30mins we ran after dark and that was much harder than in daylight.

Bottomlands training.

C • Bottomlands? 4

Track training. 3lapsx3 + some other core

Team training did 5 on and 5 off on the team boulder for a while. like 4x

45 measly laps with like 10 rests. I suck.

Stretching and bouldering with my shoes on to enforce good movement.

Did 27 routes:

Lead:
5x5.9
5x5.10-
5x5.10+
5x5.10+
5x5.10-

TR:
2x5.9 - then ran out of time.

Local comp in Rock Jungle Fitness. In the first qualifier they didn't count my hold to which I bumped up to. And in the 2nd I just climbed badly. The only good news is that the margin between the people up to fourth place is extrememly small. Bad news is that Nationals this year, are going to be a bloodbath for me in my age category. The next two months will nate be fun for me.

Bouldered with the team and finally ended with an on sight route. I messed up my sequence and therefore fell prematurely. lol. Im not used enough to lead climbing yet, right now.

Downhill skiing - SL gates at Nakiska

Morning training. Climbed ONLY 4 routes. The only good thing was that I onsighted a 5.11c. Almost onsighted a 5.12a, but my shoes were slightly bad, or my footwork. Ya. Then watched a "mock" comp.

Night O in Bow Valley with Damian. It was a really warm night. Im sick.

Night Orienteering course around Edgemont. I went slow because I could feel my knee.

Run to stronghold.

Climbing with Tyson and then bouldering.

Ohkay, so I warmed up by climbing the length of almost the entire gym, though I think that I should have warmed up slightly more before I jumped onto the wall. Next thing was me trying some boulders. I am honestly weak in relation to locking off of slopers and I still need to work on my technique. Otherwise I believe that I tend to warm up better and loosen up on routes. Anyways I bouldered, and then did like 100-175, Xs (I lost count) then I did 2x crimps and slopers up and down. Then Tony was nice and belayed me for the 20 move boulder into a route, where I fell once in the boulder problem, and then another time just on the second last move going to the finish. After that I went and did a smearing route which ended up being half smearing and half campusing up a semi overhanging wall. Finally I tried making my way up a route by stemming up the corner only using footholds for my feet and no hand hold. My right leg was completely shot by the end of it. I didnt even top the route.

Not feeling good. I was going to see how far I would go but I ended up going back home after my pace dropped drastically.

Banff comp, scramble format. Felt great and was just trying to onsight as many routes/ boulders as possible. After warming up I began by doing 28 by watching Kyle and Matt onsight/ flash it. Next I think that I tried 32 and fell near the beginning because I messed up the sequence, so I drifted over to the other side of the gym where I tied into number 29, which was a stemmy sort of route, and I successfully onsighted it. Beside that there was 36 and I had seen a couple of the boys that were much stronger then me struggling with the start because they didn't have the sequence correctly figured out and so on my third try I was able to balance my way around to the next obstacle, which was a big blue feature, sort of in the shape of a slice of an orange just glued to the wall with the peel facing down. There I couldn't figure out how to get around it so I struggled for a couple minutes, getting pumped before finally falling off the wall. When I came down Eva told me that I need to like lean over and do sort of a muscle up and sticking my foot underneath me. That worked, therefore I got over it and ended up pressing into the small roof. There was now an orange sloper that I could barely hold onto (other people were holding it with two hands and trying to rock over to the next crimp. I on the other hand could not possibly, do that so I shifted as far as I could to the left under the overhang and then placed my foot onto a feature, with my right hand on the really bad orange sloper, where I then released my left and was able to grab the quite positive crimp. At that point I was pumped and so I couldn't do the next move statically therefore I fell off and had to get some more problems because I only had 2.

That comp was the funnest climbing comp that I had ever been to, full of onsights, close calls, and great climbing.

I ended up third with the following seven routes:

35, 32, 30, 29, 28, 27, 25

C • Good job! 2