Training Log Archive: Runner99In the 29 days ending Feb 29, 2016:
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Sunday Feb 28, 2016 #
Note
slept:12.0
Saturday Feb 27, 2016 #
9 AM
Core (Warm up) 10:00 [2]
Bouldering 30:00 [4]
slept:8.5
Warm ups the fingers on a bunch of boulder problems. Some dynamic stuff, some other stuff. Good news is that I am sort of beginning to climb dynamically. Bad news is that that is starting to be detrimental to my technique.
Solution: From now on when I climb, I will try and focus on climbing as efficiently as possible, having very precise movements and not slowing down or stopping unless it is to rest. I need to learn how to position myself perfectly on a boulder and to climb it using the minimum effort required. Climbing more like Tyson, Scott, or Sean McColl, versus Jan Hojer with just brute strength.
If I can utilize both climbing styles like Sean does, then the range of movements that I can then execute will drastically increase.
Solution: From now on when I climb, I will try and focus on climbing as efficiently as possible, having very precise movements and not slowing down or stopping unless it is to rest. I need to learn how to position myself perfectly on a boulder and to climb it using the minimum effort required. Climbing more like Tyson, Scott, or Sean McColl, versus Jan Hojer with just brute strength.
If I can utilize both climbing styles like Sean does, then the range of movements that I can then execute will drastically increase.
Climbing (Onsighting) 10:00 [5]
Gave the orange 5.12c 2 goes, trying 2 different sequences. The issue with the first (and intended) sequence is that the left handed hold was really bad and I was reluctant to cut my feet. Therefore I resolved after the second attempt that I should try and jump to the hold afterwards because it was a jug.
*Note: If in a flash format comp there is a jug in reach, then don't be afraid to jump to it, especially if other people are falling trying something tricky
*Note: If in a flash format comp there is a jug in reach, then don't be afraid to jump to it, especially if other people are falling trying something tricky
Bouldering (Static moves) 15:00 [4]
One of my strengths, so I just need to work on being expedient with it.
Strengthening 30:00 [5]
[Hang open hand
45 sec curl up bicycle
Hang half crimp
Spanish military lap
Hang 2 fingers (foot on)
medicine ball pushups]x3
2 min rests between hangs, where I did the other exercises
45 sec curl up bicycle
Hang half crimp
Spanish military lap
Hang 2 fingers (foot on)
medicine ball pushups]x3
2 min rests between hangs, where I did the other exercises
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Opposition 1:00 [5]
Wall raises, 20, 20, 20
Climbing 10:00 [5]
Gave the orange 5.12c another go after practise and sent it!!!! Mwahaha that is so far my hardest route!!! Even though this one might have been slightly over graded.... Did the move dynamically; deadpointed the jug and then cut my feet to get the kneebar. Totally skipped out on the giant foot way down, I suppose I broke the sequence. Ha!
Otherwise wrestled a 5.11c to the top, and that was a fight alright.
Otherwise wrestled a 5.11c to the top, and that was a fight alright.
Friday Feb 26, 2016 #
9 PM
Core 25:00 [5]
slept:9.0
3 min rests between each set
[Set #1:
plank lift opposite leg for 30sec (1min total)
banana boats (1min)
proper v-sits / jackknives (1min)
leg lifts (1min)
splay circles (1min)]x2
[Set #2:
plank norm (1min)
sit ups norm (1min)
twisties (1min)
side plank (1min)
easy v-sits (1min)]x3
[Set #1:
plank lift opposite leg for 30sec (1min total)
banana boats (1min)
proper v-sits / jackknives (1min)
leg lifts (1min)
splay circles (1min)]x2
[Set #2:
plank norm (1min)
sit ups norm (1min)
twisties (1min)
side plank (1min)
easy v-sits (1min)]x3
Stretching 10:00 [3]
abs
Thursday Feb 25, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering (warm up) 25:00 [3]
Warm up, full lap, and tried out like one problem where I didn't have the juice to pull up on the last move. (t'was dynamic)
Climbing 10:00 [5]
Sent black 5.11c!!! Boo yah! The jump halfway required some precision.
Tried orange 5.12a, but didn't have the energy to get through the overhang.
Tried orange 5.12a, but didn't have the energy to get through the overhang.
Strengthening 30:00 [4]
(1 arm rows max --> 4x 1 arm lowers)x3 2min rest between sets
(ring side fly's max) x3
(45 sec assisted lever)
(ring side fly's max) x3
(45 sec assisted lever)
Stretching 15:00 [0]
Forarms, hams, glutes, pecs
Wednesday Feb 24, 2016 #
Bouldering 20:00 [3]
Warmed up.
Did dynamic moves, and then gave Dynamic Equilibrium about 2 gos and was closer than yesterday on one.
Did dynamic moves, and then gave Dynamic Equilibrium about 2 gos and was closer than yesterday on one.
Climbing 50:00 [4]
lead:
5.11b
5.11d
5.12a - 1 fall
5.11c - 3 falls
5.10d sesame street, classic one 8 cllips
5.11b
5.11d
5.12a - 1 fall
5.11c - 3 falls
5.10d sesame street, classic one 8 cllips
Stretching 15:00 [0]
Pecs, forarms, hams
Tuesday Feb 23, 2016 #
6 AM
Bouldering 20:00 [3]
Warm up.
Half a lap of the tower. Then actually sent like 2 boulders!! :D
Half a lap of the tower. Then actually sent like 2 boulders!! :D
Strengthening 30:00 [5]
Hangs:
Open 17.5, 19.0, 14.0
Half crimp 16.0, 19.0, 17.8
Pointer/Middle 16.6, 20.0, 25.1
last 3 14.6, 11.0, 13.0
2.5min rests doing:
[theraband wall raises
muscle downs (4)
v-sits]
3 1 arm lowers on each arm.
Open 17.5, 19.0, 14.0
Half crimp 16.0, 19.0, 17.8
Pointer/Middle 16.6, 20.0, 25.1
last 3 14.6, 11.0, 13.0
2.5min rests doing:
[theraband wall raises
muscle downs (4)
v-sits]
3 1 arm lowers on each arm.
Stretching 15:00 [0]
5 PM
Bouldering 40:00 [3]
Warmed up lightly.
Then did a bunch of new boulders without focusing on anything really. After a while I got back to my quest on the super-slopy boulder that I made. I'm going to name it Dynamic Equilibrium, because that is literally the correct term for what it is. So I tried Dynamic Equilibrium for over 30min, and made subtle progress, but alas wasn't able to repeat it.
On Wednesday I will work that problem until I drop dead.
Then did a bunch of new boulders without focusing on anything really. After a while I got back to my quest on the super-slopy boulder that I made. I'm going to name it Dynamic Equilibrium, because that is literally the correct term for what it is. So I tried Dynamic Equilibrium for over 30min, and made subtle progress, but alas wasn't able to repeat it.
On Wednesday I will work that problem until I drop dead.
Climbing 50:00 [4]
Lead a sketchy 5.11c. Bleh.
Then sent a 5.11d, yes!
2 more 5.11s.
A sesame street on green 5.10d, longest route in the gym. About 8 clips (not including anchor).
Then sent a 5.11d, yes!
2 more 5.11s.
A sesame street on green 5.10d, longest route in the gym. About 8 clips (not including anchor).
Stretching 15:00 [0]
pecs, fore-arms, hams, quads, glutes
Saturday Feb 20, 2016 #
9 AM
Bouldering (warm up) 20:00 [3]
Bouldered for a while. Did a couple problems, focused on flagging.
Climbing (workout) 10:00 [5]
Worked on onsighting. Went for a 5.13c (haha maybe was a bit head over heels) and got shutdown in the crux which was like two bad pinches.
Next went for a 5.12a that screwed me over last time I tried it, and I redpointed it!!! So that was a positive. Still had so many things to work on though. To brainstorm, ill jot down a few:
- Always completely memorizing my sequence, I often skimp on that, therefore I sometimes have gaps that are detrimental
- Climb faster; even though I feel like I'm going quite fast, then I still get feedback that I am too slow. This might tie into sequencing...
-Use my feet, often mentally, I feel like I'm just focusing on my handholds, and therefore after I figure out my hands, then I look for feet that would compromise my position. I need to change this type of mentality.
Next went for a 5.12a that screwed me over last time I tried it, and I redpointed it!!! So that was a positive. Still had so many things to work on though. To brainstorm, ill jot down a few:
- Always completely memorizing my sequence, I often skimp on that, therefore I sometimes have gaps that are detrimental
- Climb faster; even though I feel like I'm going quite fast, then I still get feedback that I am too slow. This might tie into sequencing...
-Use my feet, often mentally, I feel like I'm just focusing on my handholds, and therefore after I figure out my hands, then I look for feet that would compromise my position. I need to change this type of mentality.
Strengthening 30:00 [4]
1min rests between each exercise
Hanging:
3x open hand crimps small rungs (10-15sec)
3x half open crimps small rungs (10-15 sec)
2x finger curls 2 feet on, open hand -> full crimp (10-15reps)
Strengthening:
3x lock off campus traverse
2x row pushups (6 reps)
2x 40sec pull up (20 up 20 down)
Climbing:
5.10d slow motion, really anti-intuitive
Hanging:
3x open hand crimps small rungs (10-15sec)
3x half open crimps small rungs (10-15 sec)
2x finger curls 2 feet on, open hand -> full crimp (10-15reps)
Strengthening:
3x lock off campus traverse
2x row pushups (6 reps)
2x 40sec pull up (20 up 20 down)
Climbing:
5.10d slow motion, really anti-intuitive
Climbing 30:00 [3]
Lead:
5.11b onsight
5.11c 2 falls, pretty hard
5.12a 2 falls bleh so crimpy
5.10c onsight
5.11a onsight
5.11d onsight
5.11b 2 falls dead. done.
5.11b onsight
5.11c 2 falls, pretty hard
5.12a 2 falls bleh so crimpy
5.10c onsight
5.11a onsight
5.11d onsight
5.11b 2 falls dead. done.
Thursday Feb 18, 2016 #
6 AM
Climbing (Workout) 40:00 [3]
Warm up 5.10b
Then jumped onto a 5.11c/d (can't recall) that had a hard move in it and got me in the game.
Onsighted a purple 5.11a if I had to guess.
Tried to onsight black only with features, (5.11c) and the jump caught me by surprise so I fell once, literally getting my butt kicked in the process.
Did 5 second hovers up lime green 5.11a, which was super pumpy and that's it.
Then jumped onto a 5.11c/d (can't recall) that had a hard move in it and got me in the game.
Onsighted a purple 5.11a if I had to guess.
Tried to onsight black only with features, (5.11c) and the jump caught me by surprise so I fell once, literally getting my butt kicked in the process.
Did 5 second hovers up lime green 5.11a, which was super pumpy and that's it.
Opposition 15:00 [3]
Forgot the names so i'll make them up.
Elbows in arms out theraband
Sword out theraband
wall raises theraband
right hand wrist rotations
Elbows in arms out theraband
Sword out theraband
wall raises theraband
right hand wrist rotations
Tuesday Feb 16, 2016 #
Bouldering 20:00 [2]
(injured)
Some arm swings.
35 moves on jugs, good feet
3 dynamic boulder problems on jugs.
35 moves on jugs, good feet
3 dynamic boulder problems on jugs.
Bouldering (workout) 10:00 [4]
4 times a 24 move easy boulder problem (5.10b) with a crappy kneebar, and 2 clips (each clipped 2wice) *
Climbed the loop 4 times, after each time did core and then 4:30 min rest.
*should have clipped one at the end to simulate anchor
Climbed the loop 4 times, after each time did core and then 4:30 min rest.
*should have clipped one at the end to simulate anchor
Core 24:00 [5]
[1 min sit ups legs @ 90 deg
1 min twisties
2min plank
2x (1min side plank)] x4
That hurt so much, but as Tony would say; it was good pain. Lost form 2wice in the R side plank, due to awkward balancing, but did a nice job pushing through the normal plank, that was the hardest.
1 min twisties
2min plank
2x (1min side plank)] x4
That hurt so much, but as Tony would say; it was good pain. Lost form 2wice in the R side plank, due to awkward balancing, but did a nice job pushing through the normal plank, that was the hardest.
Opposition 1:00 [3]
Wall sit.
Stretching 15:00 [0]
Hams, sides, and right forearm.
Climbing 40:00 [4]
Warmed up with a little bit of bouldering with Kyle no jumping down.
Then moved onto leading ropes:
Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.
Then moved onto leading ropes:
Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.
Climbing 40:00 [4]
Warmed up with a little bit of bouldering with Kyle no jumping down.
Then moved onto leading ropes:
Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.
Then moved onto leading ropes:
Redpointed a 5.12a boo yah!
Sesame streets on a long 5.10d (that was more like a 5.9)
Campused up 5 moves of an easy 5.11c, before I got stuck and had to climb the rest of it.
Tried a 5.12b where I pumped out right in the crux.
Monday Feb 15, 2016 #
Note
(injured)
Doctor informed me that its probably a stress fracture, so I have to be more conscientious about how I train. I'll rest and then slowly ramp up my training, avoid pavement, and try to use more cushioned shoes.
Sunday Feb 14, 2016 #
Note
(injured)
Foot's acting up. Couldn't warm up. Same injury as @ Run the Wild. Going to have to go see someone this time.
Saturday Feb 13, 2016 #
Forest Orienteering (Jericho beach) 15:35 [5] 3.5 km (4:27 / km)
Had a mediocre race. Met my goals, planning ahead when I can, and always having a plan. Unfortunately those did not encompass having a back up plan, and so I ended up blowing one control by roughly 15-20sec due to that. Otherwise, it was like a course 1/2 relative to technical intensity, so it was more favorable towards fast runners.
Forest Orienteering 15:02 [5] 3.79 km (3:58 / km)
Great race for me, considering how out of shape I was. Most technical race of the weekend, I would say. Made 3ish small hitches, one where I forgot about an easy control, and had to run back like 3 meters to get it. Next I didn't see a route choice down a small ally which would have bought me a ton of time, due to the course being drawn slightly sloppily. Finally at the end I was neck to neck with a few people, and I knew that I didn't have the kick to beat them so I took a bad route choice to confirm that it wasn't faster. Had I not done that, I might have beaten Adam.
Otherwise I was really happy with my technical capacity of dealing with other people around me and staying on track despite distractions. At the beginning I made the most time by running to my first control correctly.
Otherwise I was really happy with my technical capacity of dealing with other people around me and staying on track despite distractions. At the beginning I made the most time by running to my first control correctly.
Running (Warm up) 45:00 [3] 5.0 km (9:00 / km)
Classic warm up. Doesn't change so Im gonna wrap them all up for today together.
Forest Orienteering (training) 25:00 [2] 3.0 km (8:20 / km)
Jogged over with Dames to the morning training. After looking at the maps, and seeing there was no control description then I determined that it was probably pointless, for I could make a better one by myself at home.
Forest Orienteering (relay) 22:12 [3] 4.02 km (5:31 / km)
Did the two loops for the 2 person relay. Shouldn't have done this, my foot started hurting afterwards.
Friday Feb 12, 2016 #
Event: Vancouver Sprint Camp
Forest Orienteering 14:00 [4] 2.5 km (5:36 / km)
Mental mess. Tried going too fast, and wasn't zoned into the map, so I started planning out the second leg after I saw the first, and in doing that I forgot to punch the first control, and continued on running the second leg.
After that, I was really shaken up and couldn't pull it back together for the rest of the race.
After that, I was really shaken up and couldn't pull it back together for the rest of the race.
Running (warm up) 20:00 [2] 1.5 km (13:20 / km)
Strides, jogging, buttkicks, legswings, highknees, and a little bit of stretching.
Thursday Feb 11, 2016 #
Note
(sick)
Tuesday Feb 9, 2016 #
Climbing 1:00:00 [3]
Warm up did a lap. Feeling meh * . Then did some bouldering, climbed like 2 problems.
Then on ropes gave yellow 5.12a 2 shots, got it on my second! Then did a 5 sec hover on each hold up red 5.11c (super pumpy) had a short rope so didn't clip anchor or last clip.
Tried the red boulder, was sooo close!! I stuck the dyno, and just slipped off the last slopy hold.
Then on ropes gave yellow 5.12a 2 shots, got it on my second! Then did a 5 sec hover on each hold up red 5.11c (super pumpy) had a short rope so didn't clip anchor or last clip.
Tried the red boulder, was sooo close!! I stuck the dyno, and just slipped off the last slopy hold.
Monday Feb 8, 2016 #
Note
slept:7.5
Sunday Feb 7, 2016 #
Climbing 1:00:00 [4]
slept:9.0
Did some bouldering, and then led a bunch of 5.11s and some 5.10s.
Did yellow (5.11c) so Ha!
Did yellow (5.11c) so Ha!
Saturday Feb 6, 2016 #
9 AM
Bouldering 20:00 [1]
Feeble warm up. Did some arm and leg swings, and then a little bit of bouldering.
Climbing (Route 1 ) 5:00 [5]
Climbed a 5.12a. More or less perfect sequence after I executed it. But wasted time on some moves. Need to get more fluid and not hesitate as much. Fell right after I clipped off of the worst crimp on the route. Should have skipped it and clipped off of the next hold.
Climbing (Route 2) 5:00 [5]
Probably another 5.12a, it was a 10ish move traverse into the start of a 5.11d. That became pretty pumpy, and so everyone including me got shut down at the bottle neck where you had to campus on the last roof. Practice, practice practice!
Climbing 30:00 [4]
After the mock comp routes, I begged Tyson to belay me on a 5.11d, which I flashed, t'was easy. Next did a 5.11c which was interesting, and required some deadpointing. After that I tried a black 5.11d which was very hard, and I fell on the last 2 moves. Finally I gave a red 5.12a a couple of attempts, and sent it on my third! So that was great.
Bouldering 30:00 [5]
Bouldered for like 2 more hrs before my parents came. Climbed 2 slabby technical problems. And then sent a double hand dyno. Finally projected a crazy red problem, and fell on the last move on my last attempt.
4 PM
Forest Orienteering (Banff Centre) 15:40 [5] 2.76 km (5:41 / km)
Decent run. Focused on 2 things:
-always having a plan, and stopping if I didn't
-planning whenever I could
I think that I could say that I succeeded in both, because most of the run I was planning, and I never had to stop. I slowed down on one occasion to finalize my plan but other than that everything was smooth.
The only negative part of the run, was that I missed a loop, and had to butterfly it, from the original sequence. But in the end I ran the same distance.
-always having a plan, and stopping if I didn't
-planning whenever I could
I think that I could say that I succeeded in both, because most of the run I was planning, and I never had to stop. I slowed down on one occasion to finalize my plan but other than that everything was smooth.
The only negative part of the run, was that I missed a loop, and had to butterfly it, from the original sequence. But in the end I ran the same distance.
Running 12:05 [2] 1.67 km (7:14 / km)
Warmed up jogging with Jeff. Then did a few strides.
Running (cool down) 16:03 [1] 2.04 km (7:52 / km)
Jogged back to the car.
Friday Feb 5, 2016 #
5 PM
Running 20:00 [3] 2.71 km (7:23 / km)
Warmed up by jogging. Checked out an area north of bottomlands, and it looks like a potentially really good sprint map. Just need to wait for it to ripen up a little (there's some construction).
Forest Orienteering 20:43 [5] 4.25 km (4:52 / km)
Ran the Bottomlands sprint I made. Was pretty smooth. Didn't make too many mistakes. It started getting dark and that's when it began to get really hard. Only able to read ahead when there were street lamps, limited my speed. Had the wrong map file under the course, so the beginning was a little weird.
Wednesday Feb 3, 2016 #
6 PM
Bouldering 36:00 [5]
slept:8.5
Warmed up with 5 laps and a few pull ups. 1 lap about 20 moves.
Workout:
6.5 laps - 13min rest
10L - 6.5min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
8.5L - 10min
-----------------
Total: 55L ---> 1100 moves
Workout:
6.5 laps - 13min rest
10L - 6.5min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
10L - 10min
8.5L - 10min
-----------------
Total: 55L ---> 1100 moves
Core 10:00 [2]
toe touches - 2T
leg lifts - 5
[banana boats
pushups
plank front
plank Rside
plank Lside
splay circles
scissors
sit ups
twisties] each 1min with 10 sec rest
leg lifts - 5
[banana boats
pushups
plank front
plank Rside
plank Lside
splay circles
scissors
sit ups
twisties] each 1min with 10 sec rest
Opposition 8:00 [2]
wrist raises - 15x each hand
wall sit - 20sec@90deg, 20s@45deg, 20s@75deg
wall squat - 2 on each side
wall sit - 20sec@90deg, 20s@45deg, 20s@75deg
wall squat - 2 on each side
Stretching 10:00 [0]
Hams, pecs, shoulders, forearms, sidelegs
Tuesday Feb 2, 2016 #
6 AM
Strengthening (warm up) 20:00 [2]
slept:7.33
Jogged a few laps, then did a bunch of core, little bit of stretching, and finally a full lap of the tower.
Bouldering 5:00 [3]
Tried about 2 boulders or something. Didn't make much progress on either one.
Climbing 20:00 [3]
Was peer-pressured into trying the 5.13a, foot slipped AGAIN. Feeling like crap. Belayed Cam on it, he did great, made it to the last move and just needs to stick it.
Workout:
Full lap of the tower, then an attempt on a redpoint level route. Was only slightly rushed through the full lap, and so I began the route pumped, and got to the same point as I had before, which was very bad.
Also sent a black (5.11-?) onsight.
Summary of my climbing:
Nearly no endurance. And even my bouldering is beginning to go downhill.
Resolution: begin actually training, so that you can walk up 5.12s and don't need to worry about clipping.
Workout:
Full lap of the tower, then an attempt on a redpoint level route. Was only slightly rushed through the full lap, and so I began the route pumped, and got to the same point as I had before, which was very bad.
Also sent a black (5.11-?) onsight.
Summary of my climbing:
Nearly no endurance. And even my bouldering is beginning to go downhill.
Resolution: begin actually training, so that you can walk up 5.12s and don't need to worry about clipping.
Core 9:00 [3]
12 different exercises, 45sec each 10sec rests. Most for core. (I think I did pushups)
Opposition 6:00 [2]
TUV's
Wall sit
Wrist raises
Wall sit
Wrist raises
Stretching 10:00 [0]
hams, pecs, glutes, forearms