Training Log: sixela

Lead:

5.9 - warm-up. Easy, around an arrette, so it was interesting. Nice, big holds, and I had a few of unnecessarily interesting moves, such as putting my left leg really high in a heel hook (about the height of my left hand) cuz why not.
5.10b - I tried this one on Wednesday last week, I think. It had a long section in a roof. Again, I got to the same place as before, but this time I was one hold over the overhang, and I fell. Then, I climbed another one or two holds higher, but I couldn't make it.

Mock lead: (my mom wanted a break from belaying so my friend belayed me, and she isn't lead certified)

~5.10a - New climb, I think it was more of a 5.9. It was easy, and it was on the "nuclear reactor" wall. It was very similar to the white 5.9 next to it that I've done for warm-ups a couple of times.

Lead:

5.10d - I tried this one last week on Tuesday (I think?) on top rope. It's in the giant overhang. I did okay, but I had to rest in the middle because my hands were tired, and then at the top (same spot as last time) I got stuck on the last move, and took me a few tries to figure out again.
5.10c - I literally did this one on Tuesday, on top rope, and I did fine. I made it, no problem. It was slightly technical, but it wasn't bad. I made it to the first or second clip and I had to rest. Then I made it almost halfway and I had to come down because I couldn't do it. I don't know what was wrong with me today. I get it that I was on lead so it was tougher than top rope, but I should've at least been able to get to the top with one or two rests. This one really frustrated me.
5.9 - Yeah, yeah. I know. An easy climb. Or, at least an easy grade. This is the 5.9 I tried on Wednesday, the one in the arch that has a long time in the roof. I rested on all 3 clips in the roof. On the last clip, the position I was resting in allowed me to easily reach one hold above the overhang, even though I ended on the last hold in the roof. And if I had more energy, I would've continued from the position I ended in. But since I wanted to check out the end of that climb for once, I cheated and grabbed the hold over the overhang. So I finished the climb. The top was like a 5.6 or 7 if the entire climb was just that. But after the roof, I was barely able to hold onto those jugs! But I finished, and I'm happy about that. It was fun.
5.10c - I don't know why I thought I could do two roof climbs in a row. Long story short, I couldn't. But, anyways, I tried. This one started very slightly overhung, then about 1/3 of the way up it straightened out for about 2 meters, then it went into a 1 meter roof, and then I think it leveled out (I didn't get there anyways). So, I was doing fine, it was just a little tough, but it was okay. I was tired, so I'd be surprised if it would be easy. Then I got into the roof. There was a jug undercling on the beginning of the roof, and then two almost sidecling jugs facing outwards at the end of the roof. Right above the edge there were three large jugs. I was holding onto the two sideclings, but it was not very stable for my feet, so I was scared to move my hand because I felt like my foot would slip if I did that. So I rested. Then I got back on the wall and quickly reached over the edge with my right hand onto the rightmost jug. Well, then I had the same issue with getting my left hand there. So I rested. I repeated the quick move I did before (the clip was a bit lower, so I had to), and then risked reaching my left hand onto the same jug as my right one. It worked. I tried to shift my feet to better holds, but I put them really high, so I couldn't push up, and when I tried to shift them lower, they slipped, so I said take, and let go with my hands. I was already tired, so I gave up on that. But I'm happy that I made it that far.