I guess we Americans are spoiled when it comes to curbing smokers and the effects of second-hand smoke. Pretty tough to spend the day in fresh, cool alpine air...and then spend the evening inhaling other people's smoke! Don't the Greeks know about the overall benefit of smoking laws
When we were sailing around the Greek Islands, the ancient history of Greece was still very evident on the small islands...and fascinating. For instance, the trading towns on the coast with purposely-convoluted maze of streets to confuse pirates, and render them easy targets as they dashed back and forth, trying to find their way back to their ships!
Or the walled chora towns high in the mountains; well-preserved time-capsules, and seldom visited by tourists...just old women with donkeys, as you observed!